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  #21  
Old 11-27-2018, 02:45 PM
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Wonder if there is another way to fix this issue other than replacement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
An evaporator that is freezing up means the charge is low. Low side pressure should be around 35 psi to 45 psi depending on the ambient temp. Unlike refrigerator where you want the evaporator temp to be below freezing, automotive AC is designed so that the evaporator never get to the temp that will allow it to freeze up. Frost free refrigerator has a heating coil that is set on a timer to melt the ice that forms on the condenser. Automotive AC does not have this.
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  #22  
Old 05-13-2019, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
An evaporator that is freezing up means the charge is low. Low side pressure should be around 35 psi to 45 psi depending on the ambient temp. Unlike refrigerator where you want the evaporator temp to be below freezing, automotive AC is designed so that the evaporator never get to the temp that will allow it to freeze up. Frost free refrigerator has a heating coil that is set on a timer to melt the ice that forms on the condenser. Automotive AC does not have this.
Circling back around as I tested the system and I am in the green so I'm not low on freon.....

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  #23  
Old 06-14-2021, 08:46 AM
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I was wondering how to remove this whole box?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264208613310

I can see the 2 bolts in the front. And then the evaporator lines. Is anything else holding it?
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2021, 10:29 AM
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Cast be simple. The repair manual has you drill a hole through the firewall to clean the evaporator. Though that could be to do while system is still full of freon.
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  #25  
Old 06-14-2021, 11:48 AM
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Ahhh good point. I see on one side the 3 tubes for coolant and on the other side A/C connector.
That seems like hell of a job. Maybe I'll just cut the carpet after all!

Is this whole assembly kept in place by two screws and A/C and Coolant connectors or is there anything else to remove?

I for the life of me can't make out the drawings in those manuals lol!

I could replace the evaporator while I'm in there as I plan to keep the car for a long time.
I feel like I'm digging myself deeper and deeper after removing the dash
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  #26  
Old 06-14-2021, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by loftygolf View Post
Hi,

I need some help as to how to remove the evaporator. I performed a dye test and it is definitely the evaporator.. I am looking for a guide as to how to replace. Or some tips... I cannot find anything on this.. I have a 2002 x5 3.0.

Thanks!

Before replacing I would try sealant. I worked on a truck that had a leak in a 90 elbow you can't remove without cutting the line so I tried sealant/dye and sure enough the UV showed the dye at that joint but only for a bit before it sealed and the car held the freon ever since.
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  #27  
Old 06-15-2021, 06:11 PM
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Well what the heck!
Let's do it!
Seems like all Nissens parts are made in China.
While I'm changing my carpet, I guess I can replace the a/c evaporator.
Fcpeuro does not have Hella, but have Nissens
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...60-64118385561

I figure Hella would be higher quality?
I found last one on Amazon
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003NWV5CO/...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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  #28  
Old 06-15-2021, 06:11 PM
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  #29  
Old 06-26-2021, 04:01 PM
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My dash is out, since I'm replacing my blower motor. How do I just LOOK at the evaporator? Can I just take a cover off the evap/heater core housing? Prior owner had dye added to the AC system at some point, so I'd like to see if any sprayed around inside the housing or leaked at the evaporator connection/fitting points.
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  #30  
Old 06-26-2021, 04:51 PM
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You can look by taking off a cover by the FSU (resistor).
You can take a similar cover off on the other side.
But you cannot see the whole thing like in my second picture, because you would have to remove the bottom cover.

I think if you remove the cover and go in there, maybe even with an inspection camera, you will see dye if it's there. That's my guess.
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