CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[Weasel]

As someone who has worked for the dealer for about 6 1/2 years now I can say that is far from true....... I can't tell you how many times we lose and the customer comes out smelling like a rose. Also remember this, when a problem becomes too big/uncomfortable for an independent to work on/figure out what do they say? "Send it to the dealer." At the dealer we do not have that option! We are the end game and have to be able to fix everything that comes in the shop. And nothing is worse than coming behind 2 other shops that have the car all apart, wrong bolts/connectors all over, wires cut/spliced with cheap autozone wire crimps etc. And if we want anything even close to how long it will actually take to fix this pile of mess up correctly in labor time we are stealers/thieves/crooks etc. I've literally spent a couple hours a day over a month to fix a 650i convertible that was butchered at a body shop then independent shop after a minor wreck in the right rear panel... and only ended up getting paid about 6 hours labor. Why, because the customer wanted to save money and found a shop that claimed they could "fix" the car for just the price of their apparently high deductible, and they didn't want to make an insurance claim. Yeah, they saved a ton of money right?

[amacman]

not every job is in the nightmare category . routine servicing earns money . brake jobs mostly go ok .

cv boots are obviously a money spinner .

I spent seven hours attempting to replace the right rear spring strut on my 740i because the spring broke . one delay was trying to open the right rear door which had decided to not open for some reason , I think lack of use because I lubed everything once I had it open and it seems ok now .

the real problem was the lower strut bush seized into the hub carrier and no amount of impact or leverage moved it . I had limited access on a floor jack so it had to go to the workshop lift and use the air hammer to move it , job done . replaced upper rear wishbones both sides also . the nuts on the ball joints had to be cut off . nearly £2000 in repair work this past year on that old car . I would be lucky to sell it for that amount of money .

[mfiver]

Thanks guys, great info here....

1) My outer boots are cracked but inner look OK, should I replace inner while I have the axle down? Or do inner's last a long time? current mileage 64K....Q - what are the most expensive words in repair? A - "While I'm at it..."

2) Has anyone found an acceptable aftermarket boot? (wouldn't even ask for 1 boot, but I'm contemplating all 4 fronts)

3) Does the c-clip on the axle for the outer CV mount inboard of the CV or outboard of the CV?

Thanks again!

[mfiver]

From amacman's first post-

If you can not remove the axle collar nut you may be able to separate the shaft from cv joint by pushing on the shaft toward inner boot whilst pulling on the hub .pic 6 shows the shaft with cv joint removed .


Don't you have to remove the collar nut to remove the c-lip? If not, how can you push the axle out of the CV with the c-clip in place?

ie. step 4 of these directions?

1) unbolt the control arm (the straight arm) at the end closer to the engine.
2) swing out the whole assembly by hand and afix with something firmly
3) remove outer boot clamps and cut off the outer boot.
4) grab the driveaxle firmy with vice grips and pry the shaft out of the CV joint against the force of the retaining C-clip.
5) wipe off grease, install new clamp, boot, clamp and C-clip.
6) while applying pressure to push axle back into CV joint, use a good sized screwdriver and poke at the C clip until it snaps in.
7) Apply the grease from the packet and then tighten clamps.
8) put on tie rod and only tighten it once vehicle weight is on the front wheels.

Thanks again!

[amacman]

step 4 there is just what to do .
I had the complete joint out of the hub but still attached to the shaft so held the shaft and hit the cv joint with a hammer . it separated easily .
the splined shaft fits into a splined part of the cv joint . I have added a pic from fp997 to show this . it is the star shape part in the center of pic . the "c" clip holds the 2 parts in place . this is what drives the wheel . the bearing and cup allow for movement .


so all you need to do is unbolt the control arm
remove clamps from boot
hold shaft . hit cv joint to dislodge the "c" clip and that is it . impact or leverage will separate the cv joint from the shaft , you will figure it .

8 pages in and we have the diy down to a few words on 3 lines . that`s progress .
easy peasy .

[mfiver]

Originally Posted by amacman

step 4 there is just what to do .
I had the complete joint out of the hub but still attached to the shaft so held the shaft and hit the cv joint with a hammer . it separated easily .
the splined shaft fits into a splined part of the cv joint . I have added a pic from fp997 to show this . it is the star shape part in the center of pic . the "c" clip holds the 2 parts in place . this is what drives the wheel . the bearing and cup allow for movement .


so all you need to do is unbolt the control arm
remove clamps from boot
hold shaft . hit cv joint to dislodge the "c" clip and that is it . impact or leverage will separate the cv joint from the shaft , you will figure it .

8 pages in and we have the diy down to a few words on 3 lines . that`s progress .
easy peasy .

Ahhh..thanks. I didn't realize people were pulling the star out of the CV....
So then it's put on the new boot, put axle back thru the star, re-attach c-clip, and reassemble star into cv?

[fp997]

Originally Posted by mfiver

Ahhh..thanks. I didn't realize people were pulling the star out of the CV....
So then it's put on the new boot, put axle back thru the star, re-attach c-clip, and reassemble star into cv?

I reassembled the whole joint (i.e. all the balls, stars, and rings) and put that on the CV (look at my post with the pics -- one of the last pics, with the picture of the c-clip) with a hammer.. when the c clip clicks into place, you can sorta tell b/c you will be able to slide the CV joint assembly in and out like a milimeter (since the clip is narrower than the groove).

I don't think its possibel to reassemble star into cv like you describe since to do so, you need to insert star at like 180 degree (if this was possible it would be poor design as the joint can come apart after its mounted on the car!).

this will become more apparent as you do the job. i was wondering a lot of the same things you were, but when i got down to do it, it sort of cleared up.

[amacman]

mfiver , if you were a bit closer than the 6000 miles between us I would be quicker to replace the boot for you .
it will take time to absorb all the info to do this diy for the first time . you will be fine , don`t rush .
I attach this pic from fp997 showing how and where to remove the shaft from the cv joint .
you may not need to remove the star and bearings from the cv joint . if there is no grit in the grease it should be ok , it`s your call . you could clean it out and re-grease it insitu or remove the bearings and star assembly from the cup whilst the cup remains in the hub .

fp997 used leverage to separate the shaft from cv joint
I ( or rather big W the engineer ) used a reasonable tap with a hammer .
the `c` clip does not usually require much force to release .

as fp997 says the bearing assembly needs to turn 180 degrees before you can remove it from the cup for cleaning . all shown in the pics on page 6 .

[mfiver]

Thanks to everyone, very very much!

Here's the deal: I usually do my own work and would figure it out as I go= along.....but,
I've injured my back and have to take it into a shop, as one outer boot is now completely separated. So I have to understand the procedure well enough to be able to convince my mechanic bill me for 30 minutes (well let's say an hour) rather than the 3 hours in his book. Since I have to do both sides we're talking about (6 hours x $95=) $570 vs (2 hours x $95) = $190

In order to convince him to pursue this route and I have be able to understand it myself in advance, without laying hands or eyes on the parts.

So sorry for the many questions but, I have changed many CV's, boots and axles (Porsche & VW) and I've never forced out an axle with a c-clip in place. This is an entirely new concept to me and it's hard to imagine popping the c-clip out with force... and well as sliding the axle back thru the star with the c-clip in place.

So thanks again for your patience and continued replies! It is deeply appreciated.

[dville]

Everyone explains things slightly different, and some people pick a little from each one.

If I had to do it again.

No need to remove anything except the wheel.

Try doing the OUTER boot first, using clamps, or quick blows, then if no go, don't waste any more time like I did.

To save the hassle I went though.
1) Buy INNER and OUTER boots and $8 CV boot clamp from Advanced Auto Parts
2) Jack up front
3) Unbolt the straight control arm at the engine side
4) remove inner and outer boot clamp, hold rotor and pull outwards,
5) remove the C clip from the inner bearings (3 wheeled thing)
6) tap or pull the inner bearing off
7) remove and replace both inner and outer boots and clamps
8) tap back on inner bearing, reinstall C clip
9) Fit inner joint back into the cup, tighten all 4 inner and outer CV clamps,
10) reinstall control arm but only tighten fully with front wheels on the ground.
11) Put wheels back on.
DONE