CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[Ricky Bobby]

Having a bit of trouble at the replacing of my outer boots and thought maybe a BMW tech could give me tips:

I have the strut unbolted, the inner boots look fine and i'd prefer to leave them in place and if I can replace the outer boots insitu I would do that, however, the "by the book" DIY at the top of the forum has you hammering off the CV joint from the half shaft by hammering at the flat part of the inner bearing, while this thread is all about leaving the stub loosely in the hub and using prying force to pop it out.


I haven't gotten it yet and probably spent an hour yesterday prying and hammering, hasn't moved yet. Although I have been hammering on the "star point" section of the cv joint bearing, so I'm hoping I haven't damaged anything because it looks like I hammered in the wrong place.


I'm not opposed to the inner boot method as it "looks easier" but then again the title of this thread is "cv boot replaced in 30 minutes" and is filled with pages of guys taking hours per side. However, if I can get a few insider tips from a BMW tech like Killcrap or someone, it would save me the 100 bucks on inner boot kits plus the few days of waiting for them from the dealer.

[stevekat]

I elected to replace the shafts, as besides seeming difficult having not done it before, it looked like a complete mess to do and that there would be grease everywhere. Two new Cardone Select shafts were about $120 delivered. Replacement was pretty straightforward with the right tools. Does not answer your question, but just offering an alternative. It looks like most everyone has trouble getting the outer joints to separate to do the outer boots only without removing the axle from the hub. Going from the inside joint seems more straightforward, but a handful, and very, very messy. Swapping the shafts is cleaner, and pretty simple.

[Multibeemer]

Being able to separate the axle from the hub on the outside is just the luck of the draw. A few very lucky individuals have been able to do it, but from the looks of this thread, for the majority, myself included, that outside connection might as well have been welded in place. I did it using the "inside method." While doable, it is a beast of a job - took me about six grueling hours per side. $120 for a pair of axles sounds incredible - if they're still available, I'd jump at that deal, although I would worry somewhat about the quality of the axles, and the boots, at that price. Depends on how long you plan to keep the vehicle.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Multibeemer

Being able to separate the axle from the hub on the outside is just the luck of the draw. A few very lucky individuals have been able to do it, but from the looks of this thread, for the majority, myself included, that outside connection might as well have been welded in place. I did it using the "inside method." While doable, it is a beast of a job - took me about six grueling hours per side. $120 for a pair of axles sounds incredible - if they're still available, I'd jump at that deal, although I would worry somewhat about the quality of the axles, and the boots, at that price. Depends on how long you plan to keep the vehicle.

On the contrary, I have separated the axle from the hub rather easily, as I also just completed replacing the wheel bearing on that side. If my damn boot wasn't showing cracks inside the folds I'd have the whole side done already as once I got moving with the right tools, doing the wheel bearing wasn't too bad.

Keeping the car for a while, and although stevekat was successful with the new shafts for about 120, as tempting as it is I feel like I'd be the one to get a set with some defects for whatever reason.

I used Raxles in the past with great results, but they are 250 a shaft, although they are QUALITY and rock solid.


My axles are in really good shape and never leaked so I'm trying to keep them if possible and get another 100k out of them if I keep the car that long. Might just do the inner boot method, if I do that I can actually take the shaft off the car, leaving the "cup" on the driveshaft and I'll have the shaft with the inner/outer joint attached.

[stevekat]

One option is to get the Cardone or other replaceent shaft(s) and use them. Take off the old factory units and while they are out, take your time and replace the boots and re-grease on the bench. If the new shaft(s) have issues down the road, you have the original factory shaft(s) to reinstall. I was going to keep mine, but looked at the surfaces where the seal wipes and saw some wear, so decided not to keep them.

[Ricky Bobby]

thanks for the input Steve, I will definitely keep that option in mind as buying 2 inner boot kits almost equals buying 2 new Axles in price believe it or not (about 50 bucks per side from BMW dealer)

I'm going to do some more hammering tonight and hopefully get the outer joint off, if I can.

[stevekat]

Good luck with getting the outer joints off. If it goes well, it seems that is a reasonable path. Just seems hit and miss, though it seems it really is an art. Here is some info on the shafts from Cardone I used should you be interested in the reference. In general I thought they looked pretty good though I did not peer inside the boots to the joints themselves. So far so good, but I only have about 2000 miles on them currently. I am curoius as to the quality of the boots but assume they shall be OK. I purchased some inexpensive steering rack boots for the tie rod connection for my old Porsche 931 from a trusted but aftermarket source, and they crumbed in 18 months, but I am confident the boots on these Cardone Select Parts are probably made properly. RockAuto was the source for the info below and where I obtained mine.

CARDONE SELECT Part # 669255 New CARDONE Select Constant Velocity Drive Axle W/ or W/O ABS; Front Left; From 04/2000 $44.99




CARDONE SELECT Part # 669256 New CARDONE Select Constant Velocity Drive Axle W/ or W/O ABS; Front Right; From 04/2000 $44.99

[Ricky Bobby]

Wow for the same price as an inner boot kit from BMW you get a whole new axle, amazing!

[stevekat]

Do not know how they do it. Also, the shipping it not very expensive. They look very well made when you are holding it in your hands - that is not always the case with other parts I have seen.

[Ricky Bobby]

OK Well I finally had success tonight, found the "sweet spot" on the outer joint and with a few good whacks the outer joint came off. Cleaned up all old grease and disassembled, got new grease in there and with some fiddling with the "c" clip I got the outer joint back on the axle.


Now the bad news, using a makeshift "axle puller" made from a ground down axle nut welded on a spark plug socket, I got the axle pulled about halfway into the hub by threading it on the axle stub and ratcheting, expecting it to pull more inwards as the nut gets threaded on there more. The nut broke at the weld and obviously the nut is flush with the hub basically, so I cannot get vice grips on there to turn it and I'm seriously looking fucked as far as finishing this job goes.

Is it bad to hammer on the hub with a block of wood in between it? I did that for a couple minutes hoping to pop the axle inward the rest of the way so I can get vice grips on and remove the broken axle nut, now I feel like the hub is "loose", is it because of the play in the axle that is in the hub or should I have no play in the hub whatsoever and now expect to replace another wheel bearing?