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  #251  
Old 11-13-2013, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdudjak View Post
Put your impact wrench or breaker bar and socket on the new axle nut that came with the kit and seat the CV joint all the way into the wheel. Torque it to BMW specs and then detent the nut.
This may sound like a silly question, but I replaced both outers recently and had a difficult time making a detent in that nut. Is there an easier/correct way to do this?
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  #252  
Old 11-13-2013, 07:38 PM
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I used a punch and it was very easy. I used the new nuts that came with the axles. I assume the CV's came with nuts, but if not, get new nuts.
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  #253  
Old 11-13-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevekat View Post
I used a punch and it was very easy. I used the new nuts that came with the axles. I assume the CV's came with nuts, but if not, get new nuts.
What kind of punch were you using?

I used new nuts, but I was hammering away at it with a flat blade screwdriver and it wasn't bending too much. I probably wasn't getting enough force through by using a screwdriver...
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  #254  
Old 11-20-2013, 04:03 AM
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I just used this method and it was totally awesome,
I was looking at the original how to instructions and purchased all the tools just to be prepared. I had to hire the puller from "Mechanics Tool Hire" here in Australia which made it super easy. the biggest problem was the Axle nut, it was so dented in on the axle I had to drill it to get some purchase on my chisel.
Anyway, Thanks for the brief it was really great.
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  #255  
Old 11-20-2013, 05:06 PM
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Yes, I think there would be a big difference in the efficacy between the proper size and shape small chisel and a screwdriver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmt View Post
What kind of punch were you using?

I used new nuts, but I was hammering away at it with a flat blade screwdriver and it wasn't bending too much. I probably wasn't getting enough force through by using a screwdriver...
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  #256  
Old 11-20-2013, 05:18 PM
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I used a flat blade screwdriver.
I just hit it hard.
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  #257  
Old 11-20-2013, 05:21 PM
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I used a chisel. Due to the hub being in the way it was a major pita.
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  #258  
Old 08-12-2014, 06:42 AM
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Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but after doing this job, I have some input.

The front right CV-joint on my car was bad, and believe me I tried knocking it off the axle. I used a bunch of different hammers and tools, but the CV-joint wouldn't move at all. I removed the whole axle, tried hammering the hell out of it, and still nothing.

I took it to a shop, and the guy there mounted it up in his press and applied 15 000kg of force (~33 070lbs) while beating the hell out of it with a big hammer. It still wouldn't move.

He then used a angle grinder and cut out everything holding the CV-joint together, and in the end we had the axle with only the inner spline part left of the CV-joint.
Mounted it up in the hydraulic press again, applied 15 000kg directly to the axle, but no luck.

End of the story was having to cut the inner spline part into 3 pieces, and then removing it. Cutting veeeery carefully, to avoid any damage to the axle spline.

He had never experienced a CV-joint that was harder to remove than this one, and judging by the comments in this thread, it's not common.

But if you're unlucky and have a severly hard to remove CV-joint like me, this is the way to attack it Took about an hour with the axle off.
And yeah, be careful when removing the inner boot, so the three roller bearings don't end up on the floor
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  #259  
Old 10-11-2014, 01:31 AM
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And 37k miles after I had the driver's side outer CV boot replaced under CPO, I get to do it myself! Thank goodness for this thread (I hope -- I tackle this tomorrow).
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  #260  
Old 10-11-2014, 07:18 PM
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With support via PM from Kevinkay, I completed this today.

I had to use the leverage and hold, then hit the inner part of the cv joint with a punch/hammer to break the clip free. I wish I had a pic of the contortions I was in as I was holding pressure on the pry bar with my leg and then used the hammer/punch -- all while lying on my back.
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