CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[stevekat]

Do I understand it properly that you had pushed the axle out of the hub to do your work, and now you were drawing it back into the hub by using the axle nut to pull it through?

From what I read, and what I did, is very, very thoroughly clean the axle splines and the internal splines inside the hub - I used a small wire brush and penetrating oil and did this very thoroughly. I had read that if one does not do this, the axle can bind going back in. I did not attempt to draw it in too much with the nut until it was mostly through and seated in the hub. I was able to push and pull on the hub and get the axle to slide almost all the way through. Also, if you pull back and forth on the hub to seat it on the axle, make sure when pulling, you do not pull the inner CV of the axle joint apart.

You might be able to pull and slam the hub down onto the axle several times to get the axle to seat further, but if you were seriously wrenching on it, there is doubt this technique would move the axle through further. It might be pretty bound up. Perhaps spraying lots of penetrating oil into the splines could help if you were trying to seat if further through some type of force or impact.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by stevekat

Do I understand it properly that you had pushed the axle out of the hub to do your work, and now you were drawing it back into the hub by using the axle nut to pull it through?

From what I read, and what I did, is very, very thoroughly clean the axle splines and the internal splines inside the hub - I used a small wire brush and penetrating oil and did this very thoroughly. I had read that if one does not do this, the axle can bind going back in. I did not attempt to draw it in too much with the nut until it was mostly through and seated in the hub. I was able to push and pull on the hub and get the axle to slide almost all the way through. Also, if you pull back and forth on the hub to seat it on the axle, make sure when pulling, you do not pull the inner CV of the axle joint apart.

You might be able to pull and slam the hub down onto the axle several times to get the axle to seat further, but if you were seriously wrenching on it, there is doubt this technique would move the axle through further. It might be pretty bound up. Perhaps spraying lots of penetrating oil into the splines could help if you were trying to seat if further through some type of force or impact.

yes I used a tool similar to this to draw the axle in the hub:

I cleaned and wire brushed EVERYTHING before install, I also put antiseize on hub splines and axle splines, is this whats making the axle bind up?

Also, I'm now having slight play in the hub now that the axle is "halfway connected from the back", hoping it goes away when the axle is seated all the way because I don't remember the hub having any play when it was just seated in the carrier before inserting the axle.

[Rebel79]

I just want to start by commending the support efforts of the users in this discussion and hopefully someone can guide me with my issue.

I have a 06 X5 3.0 and just recently noticed the outer boots on both sides cracked. I don't have any steering noise except for an occasion faint crackling when turning completely right. After speaking to local BMW dealers, they advise the boot replacement will be 700 and axle replacement (preferred by them) will run about 2000.

Originally, I was going to attempt the boot replacement myself, but after reviewing the issues you guys are having, I am reluctant. I am now leaning toward purchasing GKN LOEBRO re-manufactured axles for 330 each online. Your thoughts on re-manufactured axles? I rather change the axles by a local mechanic then struggle with the boots and risk damaging something else. Don't want him hammering the wrong place or forgetting the C-Clip which will cause more problems later.

Additionally, if anyone local to me, central jersey, can recommend a reasonable and experienced x5 mechanic, I would be very grateful.

Any helpful advice or recommendations you guys can provide would be very much appreciated. I am a new BMW owner.

Thanks for all your help in advance!

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Rebel79

I just want to start by commending the support efforts of the users in this discussion and hopefully someone can guide me with my issue.

I have a 06 X5 3.0 and just recently noticed the outer boots on both sides cracked. I don't have any steering noise except for an occasion faint crackling when turning completely right. After speaking to local BMW dealers, they advise the boot replacement will be 700 and axle replacement (preferred by them) will run about 2000.

Originally, I was going to attempt the boot replacement myself, but after reviewing the issues you guys are having, I am reluctant. I am now leaning toward purchasing GKN LOEBRO re-manufactured axles for 330 each online. Your thoughts on re-manufactured axles? I rather change the axles by a local mechanic then struggle with the boots and risk damaging something else. Don't want him hammering the wrong place or forgetting the C-Clip which will cause more problems later.

Additionally, if anyone local to me, central jersey, can recommend a reasonable and experienced x5 mechanic, I would be very grateful.

Any helpful advice or recommendations you guys can provide would be very much appreciated. I am a new BMW owner.

Thanks for all your help in advance!

Not sure where in NJ you are, but I used a shop in Madison who was very competent, as well as I can recommend Redline Speed Worx in Washington, NJ, they do many European high performance builds and things like axles are a walk in the park for them.

GKN Loebro remans are good axles, you shouldn't have issues with quality. I also recommend Raxles (www.raxles.com), they are OE unit cores but they have NEW inner and outer joints among other premium options, they are a small shop in Georgia but axle replacement is all they do. Used them on my old VW with great results, they really scream quality and I was quoted 250 per side for new Raxles axle units.

Good luck!

[Rebel79]

Ricky

I am in Edison, NJ and don't mind traveling to get the right shop to do the work. Thanks for the Raxles site. After reading that, I am inclined to purchase their axle.

Do you have details for the shop in Madison? How much should labor cost on something like this in your opinion?

Thanks

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by Rebel79

Ricky

I am in Edison, NJ and don't mind traveling to get the right shop to do the work. Thanks for the Raxles site. After reading that, I am inclined to purchase their axle.

Do you have details for the shop in Madison? How much should labor cost on something like this in your opinion?

Thanks

Well if you're in Edison, Bimmerclinic on Route 1 is right there so I would probably just take to them.

PM me on the shop in Madison if you need the info, my indy is a nice guy but like I said you also have a BMW shop right by you. Since I've taken everything apart now, I estimate a shop could probably remove and reinstall the axle in a couple hours per side, I think I was quote 550 for labor for both sides axle replacement.

[stevekat]

So the smooth part is stuck down on the threads of the axle, that is part way into the hub?

Well, if the smooth part that is broken off and has a minimum enough diameter, where the axle can be driven out with it in situ, then I'd try that, probably using a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight (how did you drive the axle out originally - small sledge hammer and bullpoint chisel, hammer on nut, air chisel, etc.?)

If the washer part remains attached to the smooth part, then I think I would take a chisel and try to hit it around the diameter to LOOSEN it. I'd imagine this might have some success.

Again if the washer part remains, you could try welding a closed offset box end wrench to the washer part while it is in situ, perhaps from the inside diameter of the wrench.

When I did this job on both sides, I did not attempt to pull the axle through the hub with a nut and threads until I was able to have the axle and its threads protrude through the hub through hand manipulation far enough to put the nut on it in the traditional way.

Your attempted solution is very innovative and unusual. Hope you are able to undo the current situation to restart the process of reassembly.

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

yes I used a tool similar to this to draw the axle in the hub...

Also, I'm now having slight play in the hub now that the axle is "halfway connected from the back"...

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by stevekat

So the smooth part is stuck down on the threads of the axle, that is part way into the hub?

Well, if the smooth part that is broken off and has a minimum enough diameter, where the axle can be driven out with it in situ, then I'd try that, probably using a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight (how did you drive the axle out originally - small sledge hammer and bullpoint chisel, hammer on nut, air chisel, etc.?)

If the washer part remains attached to the smooth part, then I think I would take a chisel and try to hit it around the diameter to LOOSEN it. I'd imagine this might have some success.

Again if the washer part remains, you could try welding a closed offset box end wrench to the washer part while it is in situ, perhaps from the inside diameter of the wrench.

When I did this job on both sides, I did not attempt to pull the axle through the hub with a nut and threads until I was able to have the axle and its threads protrude through the hub through hand manipulation far enough to put the nut on it in the traditional way.

Your attempted solution is very innovative and unusual. Hope you are able to undo the current situation to restart the process of reassembly.

Thanks, got it from the E39 boards (some helpful guys over there)

The washer part remains attached to the smooth part and is close to being flush with the axle, I can get vice grips barely on there and when I try to turn they tend to just pop off, not enough "meat" of that washer part to get a good grip on.

Originally to get the axle driven out of the hub I did not use any hammering, just drove it out with an axle flange puller and the threaded rod of a hub puller to "push" inwards until it was 95% out of the hub, then when I disconnected the strut I got it the rest of the way with 2 taps of a punch and deadblow.

Going to try to either manipulate the axle from the rear of the carrier to get it to seat further inwards by hand (so I may get vice grips on the broken washer), or like you said use a chisel and hope I can get some success with it turning. I tried the chisel method last night and had little success, but this was after wrenching with the axle joint for 4 hours (Did I mention that I had success with the outer joint, disassembly and rebooting?


Thanks for all your input on this Steve, I'd rather keep the discussion in here instead of using another thread, when my trials and tribulations could help other members in the future.

[Ricky Bobby]

Got it off after a few hours of carefully dremeling notches to I had somewhere to hold a chisel and hammering with a 3 lb mini sledge.

Threaded new axle nut on as far as I could, now I just have to do final torque on the ground. If I bolt everything back up and I have no more wheel bearing noise from that side (I replaced wheel bearing, circlip and dust shield while the hub was out) I will be absolutely amazed with all the hammering I did.


Although I'm reading on here that placing blocks of wood over the hub face and hammering in the center is the preferred method of choice to get the axle to push back into the hub, so I may be OK after all.

[TerminatorX5]

Hey Jay, I found a torn CV boot and went around checking the prices... the local Indy quoted me $390... wow, $400 just replace a CV boot... and that is for the labor alone... not sure if I can tackle this one myself, so, the search is still on for a good mechanic... the guy who was working on my engine has fallen into oblivion and i can't find him anymore, but he was very competent and reasonable... lol...

neverending saga...