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#21
08-25-2010, 06:55 PM
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__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is 
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#22
08-25-2010, 08:54 PM
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Anyone with powerflex poly bushes (purple) have any problem? I installed last year, might have about just over 5000km on them, cant confirm if its them or a stuck caliper or wraped rotor. Dealer being anal to check my front brakes... I just cant see the poly already failing. thanks
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2006 BMW X5 (4.4i) N62  MY BMW X5... No matter how I disguise it... it's heritage keeps showing through!
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#23
08-25-2010, 10:23 PM
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The thrust arm bushings don't really cause a shaking under braking. If they are worn they will cause a thunk felt upon first application of the brakes and/or over bumps... and they can make a shimmy/vibration seem a bit worse. If they are too solid (poly bushings) they can make it feel a bit more harsh over bumps etc, just a bit rougher ride (price to pay for better handling) and yet again can make a shimmy/vibration feel more prominent. It is all due to the physics/angles of the suspension geometry.
A shimmy/vibration under moderate braking isn't that hard to diagnose. If it is constant shake that is wheel speed dependent and happens under braking every time it is rotors. If it isn't wheel speed related and doesn't do it all the time it isn't usually braking related but a worn suspension component allowing rapid movement back and forth caused by it loading and unloading rapidly. On the E53 platform the lower control arm's ball joint is the more common cause as the bushing side doesn't usually wear that bad unless it isn't preloaded properly and tears. A sticking caliper can also cause a shake, but there is usually other symptoms to go with that like pulling to one side under braking, one rotor getting much hotter than the other, pads wearing faster on one side than the other, etc. The problem is techs that aren't personally experienced with these problems aren't usually that good at tracking down/isolating the culprit... and might think the aftermarket bushings might be causing the shimmy. I'd go back and request they give it to their best suspension tech for diagnosis, and that you will only pay diagnosis fee if they do proper testing and actually diagnose the problem. (and not just blame it on the poly bushings)
__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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#24
08-26-2010, 02:02 AM
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Just a question: how hard are you breaking to get the vibration? I mean at 75 mph, if i break smoothly, to slow down or stop under normal conditions, the breaking is smooth, but if at 75mph I break like in emergency breaking (getting pushed against the steering wheel under negative G) then i get a shudder... so is it normal?
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BMW X5 3.0si 2008 Premium Package Light Package Navigation Reverse Camera Rear Sensor (retro-fit) Comfort Access Spare Wheel Power folding mirrors Voice Control w Bluetooth Power trunklid BMW X3 3.0i 2006 M Aerokit M Sport Package Navigation System BT Handsfree Xenon HID BMW X5 3.0i 2001 --- SOLD
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#25
08-26-2010, 08:11 AM
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Shudder isn't normal, with my suspension all tightened up if I do emergency braking it is smooth with no shudder felt... You may just have a minimal amount of slack in something that isn't bad enough to easily find.
__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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#26
08-26-2010, 10:48 PM
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My 2003 4.4i started doing same thing like couple weeks ago
I went through everything, now waiting to buy new rotors. I purchased a set of parts on ebay from deucheparts - was relatively cheap, makes me wonder if i didnt get a faulty part somewhere, it started shaking after i changed all parts and vehicle went for wheel alighnment. My hopes now is that issue is caused by warped rotors... BMW X5 E53 Control Arm Arms Ball Joint Bushing Link Kit: eBay Motors (item 140303800309 end time Sep-17-10 14:10:57 PDT)
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#27
08-26-2010, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
HAHA thats the same bold that became loose i have no idea how but the dealer instead of checking that replaced my breakes 4 times witch in 1.5 yrs on the basis of warped discs. until i found that bolt so loose that i could turn it with my hands. but i still have the vibrtion slight but its there.....so ihave replaced bushings and arms......
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#28
08-27-2010, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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#30
08-28-2010, 09:34 PM
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I had a braking shudder so I replaced the thrust arm bushes and ball joints and that seemed to cure most of the shudder for a while .
the shudder has returned , gradually becoming worse during a 3000 mile road trip fully loaded . I noticed a few vertical stripes on the discs that appear to be pad material so I removed the left wheel and cleaned the disc with a cloth soaked in brake cleaner and this seems to have stopped the shudder from that side but I still feel shudder on the right side wheel . I reckon the shudder cured after the thrust arm replacement because the discs were cleaned at that time . I think the pad deposits are only highlighting a problem with the control arm ball joints , like weasel suggests . I will clean the discs again soon when I fit the winter tyres and let y`all know how it goes . the ball joints can wait until spring as I probably won`t be doing high speed braking through winter .
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