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  #1  
Old 09-07-2010, 07:42 AM
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Brand new front control arm with bad ball joint

I had a left front control arm (wishbone, not tension strut) replaced with a Karlyn brand arm. Had the alignment done and wheels balanced. Right away as I got up to 50 mph on the highway I started to feel a shudder in the front end and in the steering wheel.

As I was in a hurry to get somewhere, i had to drive with it in that state for about 100 miles. It sucked. The local tire shop showed me that the new ball joint had play in it. Anyone else experience bad ball joints from a brand new part?

These X5s are really hard on the lower control arms. This is my third set of control arms going out, and I've got 110,000 miles.
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2010, 07:50 AM
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My OEM arms lasted to 96k before getting any slack in the joints, replaced them with Febi brand arms from pelicanparts.com and haven't had a problem since... There is the difference between the $30 arms and the $80 arms, they don't cost half the price for no reason. I'd see if you can return them for credit towards the better arms.
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
My OEM arms lasted to 96k before getting any slack in the joints, replaced them with Febi brand arms from pelicanparts.com and haven't had a problem since... There is the difference between the $30 arms and the $80 arms, they don't cost half the price for no reason. I'd see if you can return them for credit towards the better arms.
Thanks Weasel! I gave the Karlyn brand a chance. I looked them up and they are an American company in NY. I am surprised that the arm could not hold the wheel steady at speeds above 40 mph.

I've been disappointed with Febi, Lemforder, and the BMW OEM arms too. Looking back through my records, I've actually had all three brands on this vehicle and had to change them out for ball joint wear. It must be these bad Illinois roads!

I'm going to return this arm and give another brand a try. Do you know anyway to remove the arm without destroying the rubber boot on the ball joint? Everyone I've moved with a pickle fork has been torn by the fork.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2010, 01:10 PM
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The joints aren't usually held in a tight down here as we don't have salted roads w/snow or anything down here... but I can usually get it popped out with an air hammer from above or the BMW special tool that is a screw press for it. (good thing about being at dealer)

Since you are in an area with bad roads and such it may be worth trying one of those $5 grease injection needles to pump some extra grease in the joint through the boot... see if it helps with longevity. And as always, make sure you tighten the bolts on the bushing side of the arm with the X on her wheels for proper pre-load.
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
The joints aren't usually held in a tight down here as we don't have salted roads w/snow or anything down here... but I can usually get it popped out with an air hammer from above or the BMW special tool that is a screw press for it. (good thing about being at dealer)

Since you are in an area with bad roads and such it may be worth trying one of those $5 grease injection needles to pump some extra grease in the joint through the boot... see if it helps with longevity. And as always, make sure you tighten the bolts on the bushing side of the arm with the X on her wheels for proper pre-load.
Thanks Weasel! I wanted to ask you about the ball joint for the forward thrust arm. That one could be bad too. How do you remove the ball joint from it's home in the steering knuckle?

I've got the Bentley manual but it does not give detail on how to remove the ball joint for the thrust arm.
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:21 PM
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It is held in with a couple bolts... some X5's have T55 torx while others have regular hex head 16mm.
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2010, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
It is held in with a couple bolts... some X5's have T55 torx while others have regular hex head 16mm.
Right! I should clarify my earlier question. Once those two bolts are out, should the ball joint just fall out of the steering knuckle? It appears that it is pressed into a hole in the knuckle. When I have the two bolts out the ball joint is still very stuck in the steering knuckle.
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:55 PM
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I think you can probably punch it out from the top if the wheel is off, looks like you can access it from there.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:29 PM
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I left the thrust arm connected to the ball joint. After removing the two torx bolts, I smacked the top of the thrust arm (downwards) with a hammer, and they both popped out after one hit.

I've read that some people have had a hell of a time getting them out, but mine were super simple. Good luck.
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  #10  
Old 09-08-2010, 07:26 PM
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Down here they usually pull out easily by hand, but we don't have snow or road salts... if there is any rust you may have to hit it with a hammer as described above.
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You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot


You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur.

Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right.

Examine what is said, not who speaks.

X5 pics

RIP 4.6is.....

2003 4.6is
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