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  #1  
Old 10-08-2010, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSETH View Post
There is plenty of evidence that BMW's running 15,000 mile oil intervals is just fine, first trans fluid changes at higher mileage can contribute to failures and leaving OE plugs in for 100,000 works. Have you ever heard of anyone who's BMW engine failed do to wear becaue of following 15,000 mile oil intervals?
As long as a quality oil is used, I've got no issues with extended intervals, and people have tested their oil to confirm that there was still life left. LONG gone are then days of 3k oil changes, I even go 5k between changes on my 270k truck.
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2010, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by m5james View Post
As long as a quality oil is used, I've got no issues with extended intervals, and people have tested their oil to confirm that there was still life left. LONG gone are then days of 3k oil changes, I even go 5k between changes on my 270k truck.
I agree. I went 8,000 km/5000 miles on my daughter's Toyota. It had a small sump, high rpm, and short trips.

I think it is interesting that people all seem to refer to the manufacturer's recommendations as 'extended'. 15,000 miles isn't extended, it is standard. Extended is more than 15,000 miles. Less than 15,000 miles (or whatever the lights call for) is reduced intervals, which is fine for those that want to do that.

I notice on the Mobil 1 site that they refer to Mobil 1 5W-30 as being recommended for intervals up to 15,000 miles, as recommended by the manufacturer (refer to individual manufacturers). They have moved on significantly from the 'more frequent is good' recommendations that oil companies made for years in order to sell more oil. I am not sure how long they have been promoting 15,000 mile intervals, but I found it interesting that they came out and said their oil would stand up to that interval fine, and the lawyers let them put that in the advertisement.

I wonder what the safety margin is on the 15,000 (from BMW and from Mobil) since BMW are fine with owners running far over that and not impacting extended warranty costs with CPO qualification.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2010, 09:14 PM
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Hi all,

I am changing the plugs and from what I can find is a gap setting of .44. I do not have any verification of this from BMW. Anyone have any insight?

Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ekimv65 View Post
Hi all,

I am changing the plugs and from what I can find is a gap setting of .44. I do not have any verification of this from BMW. Anyone have any insight?

Thanks.
This is the most intelligent post on this entire thread about changing spark plugs, but was never answered. If everyone on this forum is taking the plugs out of the box and installing without properly gapping them, then all this discussion on torque, anti-seize, pictures of Ferrari’s (or whatever), etc. is irrelevant - you're all doing it wrong. Did you check for proper gap settings before installing? If not, all the power and fuel efficiency comments are irrelevant and you're wasting your time and money. What is the proper gap settings for spark plugs for a 3.0Si inline six??? I'm curious since I'll be installing new plugs soon. Anyone know what the proper gap setting is?
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msammy View Post
This is the most intelligent post on this entire thread about changing spark plugs, but was never answered. If everyone on this forum is taking the plugs out of the box and installing without properly gapping them, then all this discussion on torque, anti-seize, pictures of Ferrari’s (or whatever), etc. is irrelevant - you're all doing it wrong. Did you check for proper gap settings before installing? If not, all the power and fuel efficiency comments are irrelevant and you're wasting your time and money. What is the proper gap settings for spark plugs for a 3.0Si inline six??? I'm curious since I'll be installing new plugs soon. Anyone know what the proper gap setting is?
Per NGK and Bosch, the plug gaps on the plugs for the X5 are not adjustable. Take them out of the box and use them. If they have been dropped, then the reduced gap is visible, and you shouldn't use them.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JCL View Post
Per NGK and Bosch, the plug gaps on the plugs for the X5 are not adjustable. Take them out of the box and use them. If they have been dropped, then the reduced gap is visible, and you shouldn't use them.
I was very surprised to see a quad tip.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JCL View Post
Per NGK and Bosch, the plug gaps on the plugs for the X5 are not adjustable. Take them out of the box and use them. If they have been dropped, then the reduced gap is visible, and you shouldn't use them.
they even come with cardboard sleeves to keep exactly this from happening
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:54 PM
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I still look at them when installing them to make sure they haven't been dropped, despite the cardboard or clear plastic protective sleeves.

Msammy is thinking of single electrode plugs, and not even all of those can be gapped by the installer, as the insulator will break on many of them if a feeler gauge is inserted.

I still have my feeler gauges in my roller cabinet though. You never know when you might need to set the points on a classic.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post
I still look at them when installing them to make sure they haven't been dropped, despite the cardboard or clear plastic protective sleeves.
Same here.

Quote:
Msammy is thinking of single electrode plugs, and not even all of those can be gapped by the installer, as the insulator will break on many of them if a feeler gauge is inserted.

I still have my feeler gauges in my roller cabinet though. You never know when you might need to set the points on a classic.
I've had that happen to me on Iridium plugs. Put the gauge in, it checks out, then you hear something fall on your workbench. Invariably it's the electrode. The last time I used my feeler gauges was when I had to shim E46 M3 lifters.
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JCL View Post
I still look at them when installing them to make sure they haven't been dropped, despite the cardboard or clear plastic protective sleeves.

Msammy is thinking of single electrode plugs, and not even all of those can be gapped by the installer, as the insulator will break on many of them if a feeler gauge is inserted.

I still have my feeler gauges in my roller cabinet though. You never know when you might need to set the points on a classic.
Yeah, go figure, I was thinking back to the days of replacing plugs, cap, points and rotor on my 1969 GTO. You learn something new everyday. I think I'll take a shot at replacing my plugs in my X5 since gap isn't an issue and I haven't had much fun working on my cars lately. God I miss that GTO!
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