REPLACING TIMING CHAIN GUIDE RAILS

[diyanich]

After removing most of the U rail plastic lining,smaller bits and a lot of dime size bits,I can say that that lining was failing gradually.
The U rail lining consists,to my surprise,of a clip on liner which is a pretty loose thing on the U rail held in place just by 4 clips that attach it and 4 more in the upper parts,that restrict it's lateral movements.
Why is it done this way,to give it more play to avoid an extra strain from chain lateral movement under gravity forces? I have no idea,but to me,it gives that plastic more chances to crack when its material deteriorated.
So here's how it happened to me.
I have a DIS thingy ordered from Romania,cool stuff I should say when you get it working,so was playing with some adaptations and checking how those affect engine's performance etc.
It happened that I've reset DME adaptations once and got a rough start,stopped the engine and it restarted like nothing happened.So a couple of months later I get a timing code that wouldn't go away,mind you that it's not the one that gives you a CEL(SES) light.So I kept my eye on that and after a month or so I did the reset again and it was a really bed start again,that code jumped up right away,but X ran fine after restart.
Next day out of nowhere a terrible noise arrived.I knew what it was.
So here's is what happened.
1. I found out that oil level sensor isn't working,failed at some point,because I remember low oil warning in a downhill turn stops,constantly at the same spot I used to go fishing,where I had to turn left from the highway and get into a wharf descending path,a pretty steep one.So my oil level sensor was working just fine.
2. 1.5 liter low on oil,also it was getting old and I was about to change it.Dip stick readings were sort of misleading.

If I were you,I would keep my eye on the codes and keep your oil fresh and to the correct level.
The rails were grooved by the timing chain,but nothing extreme except for one spot where I saw a bubbled plastic's core and IMO it was the spot that tore the rest of the U rail liner.

Originally Posted by stunt

I have 134k on my '02 4.6is. I just purchased it in March of this year with 133k on it. The reason I have put less than 1k on over the last 6 month is that I have had to do the following so far:

• Replaced valve cover gaskets (they were leaking bad)
• Replaced radiator (cracked while driving and lost a lot of coolant. Running Evans now)
• Replaced driver window regulator
• Replaced FSR (fan blower motor was not working)
• Fixed stripped oil drain plug (used Time-Sert)
• Did transmission fluid replacement (dropped pan method)
• Replaced oil in front, rear and tcase)
• Replaced fuel, air, engine oil, transmission and cabin filters

Truck runs great now with no issues at all. So my question is, should I be worried about imminent chain guide failure, or should I just start driving the truck on a daily basis and then maybe look at doing the chain guides next summer when I'm at about 150k?

What are the odds that I'll have a failure between 134k and 150k?

If it is less than 10%, I'll likely not worry about it right now, but if the odds are greater than 50% a failure will occur, I'll probably tackle the issue now.

Has anyone here gone past 150k with no chain guide issues? What about 200k?

Thanks!

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by stunt

.........What are the odds that I'll have a failure between 134k and 150k?

If it is less than 10%, I'll likely not worry about it right now, but if the odds are greater than 50% a failure will occur, I'll probably tackle the issue now.

Has anyone here gone past 150k with no chain guide issues? What about 200k?

Thanks!

No idea what the %s are but I'm at 170k miles with the OE guides.

[stunt]

Appreciate the feedback guys. I'll keep a close eye on the oil level and any SES lights, and otherwise keep driving it.

In hindsight, when I did the valve covers and radiator, that would have been the time to do it, but I'm pretty sure both of those will go a lot quicker 2nd time around.

[diyanich]

Here's my observation on the chain and I wish I didn't by a new one.
Check out the picture below the quoted stuff,the old one if just a touch longer,which makes it a total waste of money when you buy a new one.
Same thing about the secondary chains.


And here is my experience with a torque wrench with no left click.

Originally Posted by Sergei-e

Hi IanP,
No, I have not replaced any of the chains.
I thought if my plastic lining pieces lasted for 270,000 km then a steel chain will last at least another 270,000 km and I will replace it next time with the next chain guides repair.
To be serious, I have not heard about catastrophic failures of these chains and if it happens to me this Forum would be the first to know about it. I have carefully inspected every single link of the long chain and did not find absolutely any signs of wear or tear – no flats or worn out spots on the rolls, almost no play on the pins, nor even slight wear on either of the staked sides. I always prefer keeping sound original components in my vehicle – this not only brings the cost of the repair down but also keeps original BMW parts made by high standards and workmanship, now proven by time, in place (otherwise at this mileage I would have to keep replacing everything). In my opinion, another advantage of using the original chain is that this chain has been stretched already and will not affect my timing alignment down the road, whereas a new chain will stretch after some time and may affect the timing (it might be just another piece of mind for me to justify not spending extra $150.00 on the chain.)

[Hudjase]

I have the same issue right now, I haven't started it since it occurred two weeks ago and have taken it to 2 places that don't even want to touch it due to the amount of work involved. I live in Michigan, Does any one out there have any connections, shops, local guys who they could recommend that would be able to take this on?

[diyanich]

Any progress?

Originally Posted by Hudjase

I have the same issue right now, I haven't started it since it occurred two weeks ago and have taken it to 2 places that don't even want to touch it due to the amount of work involved. I live in Michigan, Does any one out there have any connections, shops, local guys who they could recommend that would be able to take this on?

[Hudjase]

Unfortunately no progress, I did find a local guy that who works on BMWs out of his garage. Same suggestion without even looking at it, find a new engine. The thing is, it's been two weeks of him telling me he is still looking for an engine. So if he does do the work at this pace I predict no x5 till Xmas! This is what the 3 mechanics have said, " the labor to due the job of fixing the timing chain would cost as much as a new motor." Really? Or is it easier to install a new motor?
The most I have really ever done on the x is replaced the front and rear brakes, I am mechanically inclined but after doing research online to replace the timing I'm a little intimidated. I'm not paying 9000 for a used motor installed. I am already 8k in repairs and have owned it for 2 years. I still have some small things to do to it as well. So being 8000k in repairs, towing and car rentals I have to fix it and pray the transmission doesn't go. So try the repair? Or save up more than what it's worth for an engine replacement?

[diyanich]

When I bought ours back in 2009 it had failed chain guides.
I was told to replace the engine...well so it was done.3 years later I ran into the same problem : failed timing chain guides.
Now,if then I knew what it was and how it's done,I would never listened to anybody's advise.
So I've done it myself,many things were replaced along the way.
Was it easy? No,it wasn't,and more because I was doing it alone.There are some torques that really require a helping hand or two.But yet,it was done.
Trouble free.Not really.Now I am getting an INPA code 33 or a generic P0011.Which points to the incorrect timing.I found it out just a couple of days ago.You may ask why.I used to have an Engine Light for the O2 sensors not being efficient or something like that,so I assumed that it was the same one and never got to hook the X my GT1 or INPA.
Now,I have to redo the timing.I am not happy about it,but knowing how it's all done and already having the tools is gonna help and speed up the process.

Originally Posted by Hudjase

Unfortunately no progress, I did find a local guy that who works on BMWs out of his garage. Same suggestion without even looking at it, find a new engine. The thing is, it's been two weeks of him telling me he is still looking for an engine. So if he does do the work at this pace I predict no x5 till Xmas! This is what the 3 mechanics have said, " the labor to due the job of fixing the timing chain would cost as much as a new motor." Really? Or is it easier to install a new motor?
The most I have really ever done on the x is replaced the front and rear brakes, I am mechanically inclined but after doing research online to replace the timing I'm a little intimidated. I'm not paying 9000 for a used motor installed. I am already 8k in repairs and have owned it for 2 years. I still have some small things to do to it as well. So being 8000k in repairs, towing and car rentals I have to fix it and pray the transmission doesn't go. So try the repair? Or save up more than what it's worth for an engine replacement?

[Bruce bakken]

Did you ever get rid of your code after retime?
I have tried 3 times and still have it. Read on another forum that the timing tool is a crap shoot at best. Have to keep turning timing wheel clockwise very little bit at a time till code goes away

[diyanich]

I drive it like that,because I don't really have time to mess with it now.
X runs strong,no acceleration hesitation etc. gas mileage is the same.
On the first cold start I hear the chain slamming,so I may need to look if the brand new FEBI tentioner is still good.
This far I made 3500 kms and in a couple of weeks I was planning on getting the oil change and probably get into the correcting the issue.

Now regarding the timing tool.
Have you noticed that the grooves for the camshafts aren't perpendicular to the engine heads?At least the exhaust ones for sure.
There's a kit from the competition company with consists of different camshaft locks and those are all more like a 90º to the heads.Which makes me wonder which one is the right one.

Buy G.A.S. BMW M54 Professional Cam Tool Kit

I have nothing to compare mine too,but I tried to research some baum tools rental's pictures and they also have the tool pretty similar to the one I have.


How do you move the timing wheels?How many times did you have to remove the Valve covers?

Originally Posted by Bruce bakken

Did you ever get rid of your code after retime?
I have tried 3 times and still have it. Read on another forum that the timing tool is a crap shoot at best. Have to keep turning timing wheel clockwise very little bit at a time till code goes away