Prevent Oil Separator Problems?

[Jordo]

Agreed. I have the same feeling about added cemicals in my motor.

[Lucky7]

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

I'll say, when you do valve cover gasket check for sludge on the driver side cover (one of the two hoses from oil separator goes back here); If so replace the oil separator (it's only $30 or clean it with brake cleaner), replace the two hoses and wrap them with pipe insulation, check and clean for more sludge on the smaller hoses where the funnel end of oil separator goes.

Try:
- to use the car for longer mileage
- to have shorter oil change like 7500mile/6mo to get rid the water/sludge that may clog the oil separator.
- or just upgrade to heated version of the hoses.

I assume you have 4.4i

I actually have the 3.0 (I pick it up either tomorrow or Monday). I change the oil in my 745i every 5k miles, and the Benz every 5 as well. The F-150 every 3,000 because I run non-synthetic. This may be overkill, but I plan to change the X5 every 5k as well.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by tommyd73069

JCL - so what's the answer to the original question, preventing the problem? Does this mean I need to move further from work to increase my driving times to keep the moisture out? I'm sure that's not the only solution, plus I really like my house.

You noted that you drive 5 miles to work every day. That is the real problem. If you need to drive those short distances, fine, but you need a good run once a week or more, to get it hot. Short trips don't cause it unless they are your only trips in the vehicle.

Beyond that, more frequent oil changes can help, but while those remove the condensate from the crankcase, they don't do anything to clean out the separator. I would make cleaning out the separator an annual preventative maintenance step if I had the problem. If you only driving is 5 miles trips, then that would qualify as severe service in my book, and BMW recommends in that case that owners do more frequent oil changes than are called for by the service lights.

Everything else (wrapping the tubes, insulated or heated CCV, etc) is just treating the symptoms, not the problem.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by tommyd73069

Well, answer may be Royal Purple Synthetic. Told one of the mechanics at my dealership (I sell cars) about my experiments. He brought a bottle of Royal Purple 5w30 by and we've been playing with the blender. Impossible to make an emulsion with below 5% water/oil. Tried crushed ice, made mayo, but it separated once is set for just a few seconds.

Worried that it might not meet BMW std for oil, but found this article in an Aussie car mag. I think it's pretty good stuff based on their testing. Anyone using it and seeing oil/water issues?

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

I get a little worried about an oil manufacturer when their web site says "Meets API standards" without specifying which API standard. A quick web search showed that one Royal Purple motor oil meets API SJ. Others apparently meet API SL. Perhaps they have improved it since then, and it meets a more current standard. That would be good. If it does only meet API SJ, that is a 1997 standard, which was superceded in 2001. You should be looking for an API SM motor oil, or an SL if you can't find an SM. The difference to the older standards is significant; motor oil has improved a lot in the past 14 years.

edit: Royal Purple is referenced in posts as having stated that they don't meet API SM because their formulation doesn't meet SM standards for anti-wear additives (they are using additives that can damage catalytic converters). SM is actually a tougher standard for anti-wear, so it would be better if they met it.

If it meets API SM it would be fine. If it only meets API SJ, then by definition, it is not pretty good stuff. They seem to be able to sell it though, and they have their supporters.

[phil47]

Originally Posted by JCL

You noted that you drive 5 miles to work every day. That is the real problem. If you need to drive those short distances, fine, but you need a good run once a week or more, to get it hot. Short trips don't cause it unless they are your only trips in the vehicle.

I'm wondering what a short vs adequately long trip is? My commute to work is around 20 km each way (~12 miles) with a couple short sprints up to 80 or 100 kph but the majority around 50 kph. Takes around 30-45 minutes. Longer and higher speed trips are irregular...maybe once a week or every 2 weeks. I haven't run into this issue yet, and the inside of my oil filler cap has ALWAYS appeared clean (no evidence of emulsion). Car is typically in a heated garage and heated underground parking. Opinions on whether I am likely in the clear?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by phil47

I'm wondering what a short vs adequately long trip is? My commute to work is around 20 km each way (~12 miles) with a couple short sprints up to 80 or 100 kph but the majority around 50 kph. Takes around 30-45 minutes. Longer and higher speed trips are irregular...maybe once a week or every 2 weeks. I haven't run into this issue yet, and the inside of my oil filler cap has ALWAYS appeared clean (no evidence of emulsion). Car is typically in a heated garage and heated underground parking. Opinions on whether I am likely in the clear?

There is no correct answer, and I am reluctant to say if that is fine or not, because I wouldn't look forward to hearing about you having a failure at some point in the future. No crystal ball here. If it was me, and I hadn't had a problem up to now, and I didn't see any paste under the oil cap, then I would tend to relax a little. My E53 3.0 had a similar run to you, 30 km each way, mainly 60 kph, garages only indirectly heated, and I never got any paste under the oil cap. A 318i on the same route did get the paste under the oil cap, simply because it was a smaller engine, more efficient on fuel, thus less heat. A hot oil change when it did build up kept it under control.

Even if there was no buildup, after 100,000 km or at Inspection II I would inspect the CCV and expect to replace some hoses because the hoses can go soft with age, whether or not the valve is freezing up.

[Cisc0]

Originally Posted by Weasel

Also having the updated "cold weather" parts with insulated hoses etc helps too.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these updated/insulated hoses. Recent temperatures and snow in NYC has my X acting funny and after checking the oil cap, I have found "mayonnaise" under there. I will like to replace these hoses since I have never replaced them.

Thank you in advance for your help.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by Cisc0

Does anyone have the part numbers for these updated/insulated hoses. Recent temperatures and snow in NYC has my X acting funny and after checking the oil cap, I have found "mayonnaise" under there. I will like to replace these hoses since I have never replaced them.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Here is the realoem link for an early 2002 3.0. There are hoses with part numbers marked as 'ended' (items 4 and 6) and then new part numbers, on the page in the link. I would still check with your dealer as to whether those are the most recent updated parts or not, as they have likely changed more than once. There very well could be updated hoses for any of the parts shown in the link, but the dealer should be able to determine what the latest numbers are for each of them.

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

[Cisc0]

Originally Posted by JCL

Here is the realoem link for an early 2002 3.0. There are hoses with part numbers marked as 'ended' (items 4 and 6) and then new part numbers, on the page in the link. I would still check with your dealer as to whether those are the most recent updated parts or not, as they have likely changed more than once. There very well could be updated hoses for any of the parts shown in the link, but the dealer should be able to determine what the latest numbers are for each of them.

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

JCL thanks a million, you Rock!!!

[phil47]

Originally Posted by JCL

Even if there was no buildup, after 100,000 km or at Inspection II I would inspect the CCV and expect to replace some hoses because the hoses can go soft with age, whether or not the valve is freezing up.

Makes sense...good advice.