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  #17341  
Old 09-25-2025, 06:36 PM
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Do you have train sensor? I had to use foxwell to recalibrate after my windshield was replaced


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  #17342  
Old 09-25-2025, 08:23 PM
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Do you have train sensor? I had to use foxwell to recalibrate after my windshield was replaced


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I don’t have the rain sensor on my e53, but the safelite guy said most x5s he handles do, and he he uses a scanner tool to train it. It’s also a different windshield apparently.
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  #17343  
Old 09-25-2025, 08:25 PM
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Yup it's a different windshield but the sensor transfers over.


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  #17344  
Old 09-26-2025, 10:24 AM
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Bought a cheap hot glue gun and glue sticks, glued those black mounting pieces back on the door card, seems to hold really well. Guess we'll find out... looks like someone also used some kind of hard black adhesive to hold the sun shade unit to the door card but I have no idea what it is. Of course the vapor barrier went missing years ago...

Is it possible for a dirty or bad IAC valve to cause a fuel trim rich code? Throttle/brake plausibility code? I have a new Chinesium one but maybe the old one just needs cleaning. Whatever, it will all have to wait for the window regulator parts to arrive and I'm on a two-week work trip starting this weekend. Getting the IAC out doesn't look too terrible.

Oh and I noticed what I'm sure is windshield washer fluid dripping from both sides just past the front wheel wells. I haven't used the washers much but I filled the tank two months ago and it's already almost empty. The pishers do spray the glass but there's a big leak somewhere. The headlight washers work too but every time I've ever used them there's a lot of fluid leaking from behind the front bumper. The rear window washer works with no obvious leaks.
I got lean codes with a faulty IAC code. The code for the IAC was "mechanical fault". I tried cleaning the IAC's before I replaced them and it didn't do any good. Code would go away for awhile and then pop back up.

If washer fluid is leaking from under the bumper it's likely the hose to the headlight washers is leaking. The other common leak points are the grommets where the pumps go into the tank. You also need to make sure the pumps are seated properly or they like to leak. You'll usually see those leaks on the ground directly under or close to the tank location.
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Old 09-26-2025, 07:36 PM
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I got lean codes with a faulty IAC code. The code for the IAC was "mechanical fault". I tried cleaning the IAC's before I replaced them and it didn't do any good. Code would go away for awhile and then pop back up.
That’s the code I get. Ugh. I’ll clean it first but I have a cheap Chinese part I can try if that doesn’t work. Thx and I guess I have to get under this thing to see from where the washer juice is leaking.

Oh and yesterday she was running fine on the highway for about 20mi but when I exited the idle turned rough and it threw a cylinder 2 misfire code. Shut off and restarted and it’s like it never happened.

Weird. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ cleared the codes but of course they’ll come back.


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Old 09-26-2025, 09:02 PM
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Run injector cleaner if you get random misfire.


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  #17347  
Old 09-26-2025, 11:26 PM
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Run injector cleaner if you get random misfire.


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+1 on that. I was having that issue a while ago. Ran Techron through it. You have to make sure you get enough though. Some will do 20 gallons. Our tanks hold 24, so one of those bottles isn't enough.
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Old 09-26-2025, 11:27 PM
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I use half tank of gas to bump up the concentration


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  #17349  
Old 09-26-2025, 11:39 PM
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I use half tank of gas to bump up the concentration


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That works too
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  #17350  
Old 09-27-2025, 09:05 PM
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Drove about 45mi today. Some weird power loss when cold as if I'd lifted the gas, but only for a second or two. Then it carried on like nothing was wrong for miles, and no SES lights. No misfires.

I'll try the injector stuff, thx.
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