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  #17631  
Old 04-17-2026, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g300d View Post
Decided at the last minute to use the 4.6 for a scheduled weekend out. So took care of some last minute PMS stuff.

Had the transmission fluid and filter changed, used ZF Lifeguard 5. Pricey for a non-synthetic but no equivalents so oh well.

Had the brake fluid done while on the stands. Flushed and filled with Ate Typ 200.

Had some front suspension noise traced to the steering column lower joint. Another item I'd been putting off as it isnt inexpensive but another good one to do on the stands. Glad I did, no more noise makes it so much more fun!

Engine oil, coolant, front/rear diffs, transfer case, and tires all done recently. Ready and looking forward to this trip!
I used redline D4 ATF in my 4.6is. It made the transmission noticeably happier and also eliminated a strange 2-3 rough upshift around 3500 rpm.
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  #17632  
Old 04-17-2026, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x5Alpine View Post
I used redline D4 ATF in my 4.6is. It made the transmission noticeably happier and also eliminated a strange 2-3 rough upshift around 3500 rpm.
Thanks for sharing that, nice to know there are options!
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  #17633  
Old 04-17-2026, 02:53 AM
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Chasing a long crank before start issue that was getting worse and now happening all the time.

Had a check valve installed at the fuel pump outlet. Still starting hard.

Just put in a new fuel filter. Rubber vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator on filter was disintegrated and put in a new rubber hose along with the new fuel filter.

Looks to have fixed it! Just not sure if it was just the hose, the filter/regulator, or both, that did the trick
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  #17634  
Old 04-17-2026, 08:58 PM
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So ten years later, to the month, here I am doing this thermostat job again: -

https://xoutpost.com/1079662-post7235.html

Only difference is that with ten years of inflation, a Chinese part costs $100, a Mahle/Behr part costs $150 (ex. Latvia) and a genuine part costs around $400. So I went with this...



(That and I broke off the radiator drain bolt - of course!! )

Engine now running at the proper temp again. Time will tell...
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  #17635  
Old 04-18-2026, 06:21 AM
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^gawd yes. I am searching for stuff and I LOL when I see I have posts in the thread I click on ��

Congrats on getting it running right again (till the next thing pops up lol)!
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  #17636  
Old 04-18-2026, 11:06 PM
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I've been busy on mine. Full rear suspension overhaul completed. Front inner and outer tie rods replaced along with one anti roll bar drop link and a control arm.
I even reinstalled my original steering UJ shaft as the new on I put in only lasted a few months. The UJ on it had a load of play in it. Chinesium parts..
I set the alignment up myself with my camber gauge and string lines. It now drives the straightest it's ever driven so I must have got it pretty much spot on but will get it on a machine to make sure.
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  #17637  
Old Yesterday, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post
Fixed two annoying dings at start up. Two sets of LEDs caused CAN Bus errors. Finally, a third set advertised as CAN BUS free error LEDs worked perfectly. On installation, the red wire end needs to go on the right. Black on the left. The sets have to be turned correctly to mount too. The insert tab on one side is offset. This new set fit better than the one that failed. Even better than the two new ones that set CAN BUS errors.
They look like this on mine. Very bright illuminating even the bumper itself, a little bit too much.
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