Newbie- hello everybody

[Sunny_wales]

came home tonight and disconnected the vacuum pipe from the egr valve, (about 9mm pipe with a blue stripe)?? placed a screw in to the pipe to not affect the system and egr connection left open to atmosphere,

all was well when set off, not flooring it waitin to warm up, found a long road and went for it, the car started to shake again on idle, just alot worse,

pulled up and reconnected the pipe, as yet it hasnt gone back to idleing correctly

any ideas??

[powers1]

Originally Posted by Sunny_wales

came home tonight and disconnected the vacuum pipe from the egr valve, (about 9mm pipe with a blue stripe)?? placed a screw in to the pipe to not affect the system and egr connection left open to atmosphere,

all was well when set off, not flooring it waitin to warm up, found a long road and went for it, the car started to shake again on idle, just alot worse,

pulled up and reconnected the pipe, as yet it hasnt gone back to idleing correctly

any ideas??

You have proved that your EGR system is working fine,so thats one to strike off your list.Like I said earlier,you need to Diag the car.

[Sunny_wales]

had a diag today
sent my gf and all they gave her was the codes and no discription

heres the codes
P1640
P3505
P1613
P0404

im lookin on the web atm to find out what they mean

[Sunny_wales]

just reading a few threads on other sites, alot of ppl have reported similar problems to what im having,
all of them have pointed to the injectors.
does anyone recommened an injector cleaner as a first port of call or am i just wasting my money?
will i be able to do a test to establish which injectors are faulty so that i aviod the large cost of doing all of them?

or.. am i just barking up the wrong tree?

[powers1]

Originally Posted by Sunny_wales

just reading a few threads on other sites, alot of ppl have reported similar problems to what im having,
all of them have pointed to the injectors.
does anyone recommened an injector cleaner as a first port of call or am i just wasting my money?
will i be able to do a test to establish which injectors are faulty so that i aviod the large cost of doing all of them?

or.. am i just barking up the wrong tree?

I hope you did the Diag test at Bmw dealer? DTCs..sometimes taken with scanners have been misleading ,as some members here have found out.

Ok..here goes.
P0404 is an EGR blockage /solenoid fault.Since you already did the EGR test,then it can only be a faulty solenoid valve.

P1613 is an internal controle module detecting memory fault(Has you car been re-mapped incorrectly?...This is common)

P1640 is You EML (engine management light) on the dash!This error usually occurs due this circuit being in shorted.The ECU is trying to turn the EML on and it cant!Do you have an EML on?Doubt it!

P3505 is your Glow plugs.No point in finding out which one is bad.You must change all 6.

If your did the Diag at Bmw ,then this what you need to change.
So,if you had injector issues,there would be a code for itmnost certainly,so just forget that for now.

Any luck yet in finding out if you have the Swirl Flaps?

[Sunny_wales]

Originally Posted by powers1

I hope you did the Diag test at Bmw dealer? DTCs..sometimes taken with scanners have been misleading ,as some members here have found out.

Ok..here goes.
P0404 is an EGR blockage /solenoid fault.Since you already did the EGR test,then it can only be a faulty solenoid valve.

P1613 is an internal controle module detecting memory fault(Has you car been re-mapped incorrectly?...This is common)

P1640 is You EML (engine management light) on the dash!This error usually occurs due this circuit being in shorted.The ECU is trying to turn the EML on and it cant!Do you have an EML on?Doubt it!

P3505 is your Glow plugs.No point in finding out which one is bad.You must change all 6.

If your did the Diag at Bmw ,then this what you need to change.
So,if you had injector issues,there would be a code for itmnost certainly,so just forget that for now.

Any luck yet in finding out if you have the Swirl Flaps?

could you help me out with the solenoid on the egr, is this part of the egr or is it located somewhere else

do you think i should remove the batttery for 20/30min to see if it corrects the ECU fault and im having a lil issue with the alarm "beeping" 1 time a second, may this be related?

[powers1]

Originally Posted by Sunny_wales

could you help me out with the solenoid on the egr, is this part of the egr or is it located somewhere else

[Sunny_wales]

found a diy on swirl flaps, i cant see the rod there.
going to have a good look on sat morn, prob get a set of glow plugs and do them at the same time

as for the re-map, i havent had it done. poss a previous owner has?? any ideas? is there a definate fuel saving to be made if i do ( currently 24mpg) mix of local and motorway

lmao @ P1640, very true the eml hasnt come on, was very suprised it hadnt when i had all of these codes returned

[powers1]

Originally Posted by Sunny_wales

found a diy on swirl flaps, i cant see the rod there.
going to have a good look on sat morn, prob get a set of glow plugs and do them at the same time

as for the re-map, i havent had it done. poss a previous owner has?? any ideas? is there a definate fuel saving to be made if i do ( currently 24mpg) mix of local and motorway

lmao @ P1640, very true the eml hasnt come on, was very suprised it hadnt when i had all of these codes returned

The swirl flaps is just a precaution and nothing to do with your issue at the momment.Hopefully,you may not even have them.

Like I said earlier,the codes always point in the right direction,even tell you EML is not working.
I would change the EGR solenoid first and update your software ,especially since the EML isnt coming on,like the codes say!
The glow plugs are only used on cold starts,so unless at least one in shorted to ground,they have no influence when the engine is warm and your erratic issue.

Is yours an Auto like mine?24 mpg is not too bad for local /motorway mix,especially if you have a heavy foot.This is what i am getting with mine ,when I just drive local and the car hardly warms up.I only get 30mpg + when I drive on motorways at constant speeds up to 100 mph (oooops....I meant to say ,on german autobahns!)

Yes.a re-map can be make your car more economical,as we raise the torque limiters so the engine doesnt need to use as higher revs!
We do both ECO and POWER re-maps.
You have an ECU problem anyway,since your EML is not coming on,so you will need a software update or restored.
If you could send me the existing map (or go to our Stroud installations and they will read and send me the map),I can check it against another 3.0D map
with same software as yours and tell you if your map is original or re-mapped!
I can even make you a nice ECO map for your car.An ECO map will still have more HP/TORQUE than standard but is more economically designed.

[Sunny_wales]

are there any tools i can get to read my cars map?