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#231
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2008 E70 X5 with 4.8L and 104,000 miles. Many state the car must be level to do this job. I put a level on the trans blolts and leveled the tranny based on the trans bolts front to back side to side is this correct? With the trans level the rear of my car is raised several inches higher than normal. Should the Car be level as if on level ground or should the trans be level? I want to verify before proceeding. In my opinion if you measure what comes out with your drain and get that much back in you are good, running or not running for this job. I agree all are correct to drive it a while and repeat to get the torque converter oil cleaned up more. The trans pan cover/plastic sits at an angle. Thanks to all for posting, it helps when approaching an unkown. BTW: I purchased the FORD Mercon SP Automatic Trans fluid which is used in the same tranny our BMW runs but in Ford applications. Same Tranny=same fluid. BMW ZF 10 Qts Mercon SP $80 shipped to my door. But run what you wish as it is your car and your dime if it breaks. Can I share and opionion on the Flush systems? In 2003 I first heard of this type tranny service and I thought what a great idea. Full Tranny fluid change which cleans out the converter at the same time. I did this to my 2001 GMC Denali at 58,000 miles, the tranny failed at 59,000 miles. Unfortunately I also had a 1995 Suburban with 150,000 miles and had it flushed also. It failed at 158,000 or so. I know my tranny builder and we discussed both failures. He said all the loose particles in the bottom of the tranny oil pan and filter can move in the flush and find there way into many places in the tranny where they don't belong and cause many failures. He said don't do a flush Unless you have a new clean filter and clean pan to start with. If you have a clean filter and pan you have already drained and refilled your tranny so why do the flush? I went 2 for 2 with failures after flushes and I trust this tranny guy, he has done his job and grown his business for 30 years. |
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#232
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#233
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Thanks for sharing your experiences with the AT flushing. That fits with my understanding of them, so I'll continue to avoid that.
I don't want to try to answer questions for your E70, but for my '01 E53 3.0i, with a GM AT, the _vehicle_ is to be level when setting the AT fluid level. Temperature is important too, for my x5, that spec is 30-50C, which is pretty cold, and definitely not "warmed up." The concept of carefully measuring how much fluid comes out and putting the exact same amount back makes sense. I'm careful to measure what comes out, but only use that as a sanity check vs. how much goes back in. Your method also assumes the level is correct to begin with, and relies on the accuracy of measuring what comes out (including accounting for thermal expansion due to any temp difference between the old vs. new fluid). If you're fine with that, it should work.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 01-02-2017 at 08:49 PM. |
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#234
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Thanks, I did not realize I was in the wrong forum. I still appreciate your tips.
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#235
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Quote:
Drain can be done with the engine off but the fill (and level check) MUST be done with the engine running AND the fluid at temp. No work around for this.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#236
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I changed the fluid and filter every 60-70 K miles. It's not that difficult. I now have 220K miles and never an issue with the tranny. Although, did you know that if your MAF is disconnected your tranny acts up ? I found out by mistake. ONE important thing; don't over tighten the fill/drain bolts.
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#237
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I changed my ATF about a year ago, including cleaning the pan and replacing the filter & gasket. I only drained it once and was going to go back and drain/fill again, since once only gets about half of the old fluid out, but I never got around to it. I finally want to get that done, but since it has been a year (10K miles), I went ahead and ordered a new filter and plan to drop the pan and clean it again. This time I plan to drain, fill, drain, fill. (I only had a minimal amount of sludge in the pan after 90K miles, probably less than a 1/4" of metallic sludge on the magnet)
I'm trying to decide if I should replace the filter after the first drain or the second. On the one hand, the initial drain could reveal more sludge in the pan that could get stirred back into circulation when refilling. On the other hand, waiting to replace the filter until the 2nd drain would leave the new filter with less contaminants in the end. Does that make sense? What would you do? I have 7 quarts of Mobil Dexron VI (synthetic blend) left over from the case I bought last year, so I need to get more of that. Looks like best price is still The Lubricant Store, at $55.44 a case: Mobil ATF Dexron VI (Case - 12 Quarts)
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Tim in Indy 2014 xDrive35i |
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#238
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Hmmm any idea if its the same for a 3.0d? my mechanic needs a whole day to do this, is that a fair assessment of time needed?
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#239
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I'm not a mechanic and it took me about 1.5 hours.
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Tim in Indy 2014 xDrive35i |
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#240
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I just drained my tranny fluid again, 300 miles after I changed the filter and fluid. The drained fluid came out pretty clean actually. I was surprised based on how dirty my 100,000 mile tranny fluid was coming out. No visible leaks anywhere now. That is a nice change.
On the initial oil change a month ago I ran the engine in gear for a while and drained about three quarts of the just installed fluid which came out a little dirty and then filled it again. I think the multiple drain and fills have cleaned up the system. Should be good for a very long time now. I used almost 14 quarts of the Mercon fluid cleaning up the system. |
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