Removing Auto trans from 4.4, couple of questions

[TriX5]

RRPhil,

After a busy week I finally got some time to work on this project again. I have the reman torque converter sitting in the garage and now it is time to put in the new parts and put the AT back together.

I took the valve block apart and luckily there were only a few minor flakes in the screen, nothing like in your picture, much smaller and apparently not related to the torque converter throwing up.

I have yet to start replacing the valve springs but I have been trying to locate all the parts I disassembled thus far. Everything kind of gets messed up by the oil when it comes apart.

How about the check valve in your last picture (pos 55.220 and 55.240). There is no image in the kit for that but it shows in your first shot. I interpret that to mean it needs to be inserted like I show in my first picture with the spring sticking out? EDIT: No. Now that I look closer at your picture it seems to go the other way, in my picture the spring ought to be down?

Also, pos 27.094, the two equal check valves, I think one goes in facing up through the plate and the other down like I have them in the second picture?

I can't get the damper out (27.044) where do I apply air to pop it out? And, finally, does the little ball check valve simply drop in the slot as per the image in the kit? No springs or anything?

Also, how do you re-assemble it without all the bits flying all over the place? What is the correct order? I was surprised by the block coming off at the same time as the bottom one and it seems fiddly to get it all back together without anything shifting or being lost.....

[RRPhil]

TriX5,

Yes you have the 55.220/55.240 check valve upside down in your photograph. The flat on the plastic part seals against the underside of the orifice plate & its function is to act as an anti-drainback valve for the B-clutch




The two identical check valves (27.074/27.094) are positioned correctly as shown on your photograph.


To remove the damper (27.044) there’s a hole on the underside of the duct plate that you can poke a wire through to push it out



Yes, the ball flip-flop valve (27.086) for the F-brake just sits in its trough. There are no springs or anything.



Regarding re-assembly, the three valve blocks and the duct plate are all separate self-contained sub-assemblies that bolt together onto the duct plate so there shouldn’t be any loose parts to worry about (with the possible exception of the 55.220/55.240 anti-drainback valve in the upper block which you need to keep an eye on – though it should be held in place by the block's orifice plate - and the manual shift valve in the lower front block – just make sure you engage the protuberance into its guide slot on the duct plate before bolting down).

Are you okay with the positions of the eight coloured orifice discs that sit in the duct plate? It’s important that they all go in their correct places – the colour signifies the orifice size (brown = 1.0mm, blue = 1.4mm, black = 1.5mm, etc.)

A tip I would give you is not to fully tighten the seven (4 + 3) screws which hold the gasket and large orifice plate to the duct plate until the lower front block is sat in place. The dowel pin in the lower front block positions everything so you need to have the dowel engaged in its hole in the duct plate before you tighten up the seven screws.

Phil

[TriX5]

Great! Thx, last night it befuddled me a bit with all the oil shedding out when it is opened up.

Will get back to it later this afternoon.

Thx again!

Well that didn't happen but hope for tomorrow. The orifices are shown on the schemaic that came with the kit, so I hope it is correct.

[TriX5]

Phil, the pictures of the valve blocks with the springs lined up next to them were tremendously helpful to have as the instructions are a bit confusing given that there are extra parts depending on which number your assembly is, I have a 350. I replaced all the springs and hope to put the block and the main plate back together in the morning. Thanks again!

[RRPhil]

TriX5,

Glad the pictures helped.

The valve block spring kit for the 5HP24 isn’t readily available in the UK so I end up having to simply measure the free length of each of the 29 springs and check that they’re within tolerance whenever I carry out a rebuild.

I’m therefore very interested in what you’re describing as a ‘350’ assembly, etc. When you eventually get time might it be possible to scan the instructions that came with the kit & post them up on here?

Phil

[TriX5]

No prob, I scanned the instruction sheet before I started. PM me your email address and I'll send you the files.

I installed the 4+1 O-rings on the actuators but I have one O-ring that I can't figure out where it belongs. (POS 51 260/012)
51 is all lower rear block but this one has me stumped. Any idea?

[RRPhil]

The early 5HP24 transmissions used a different ‘main pressure’ proportional solenoid (51.260) so I’m aware that there are two different O-rings i.e. 51.260/10 and 51.260/20, depending on which solenoid is fitted. I’ve never heard of a 51.260/012 though – is it coloured green? The overhaul kit we buy over here just has the one ‘green’ O-ring (51.260/020) in it, but maybe the American kit has both so one is spare?

Thanks for the kind offer to e-mail to me the instructions. I’ll send you a PM.

Phil

[TriX5]

correct, it has the green one as well and the one that came out was green so I replaced like-for-like.

[TriX5]

Here is a picture of the orifices with the gasket on. Hope I got them right. The valve body is back together, it is quite straight forward to put together as Phil said. The plate keeps things together and the top block you can eyeball it in to place underneath while putting the lower rear block on top.

And I did the housing and the pump today. Tomorrow hope to have a few more steps complete, the missus is getting restive about driving the Tundra....

[RRPhil]

Yep, those are 100% correct.

The purpose of the majority of those orifice discs is to ensure controlled pressure/torque build-up in the A & C clutches when either 'D' or 'R' is selected for smooth engagement, so they need to all be in their right locations.

Phil