Replaced air suspension with springs

[TrickerZ]

Thought I'd give back to the community a bit and explain how I replaced my air system with springs.

Removal was pretty easy. I removed the computer, compressor, air tanks, hoses, air springs and level sensors, then put in the 3.0 X5 springs.

Parts you need:

2 SPRING PAD LOWER 33531093785 $10.22
2 Cover 33531093787 $4.44
2 SPRING PAD UPPER 33531093786 $7.38

and whatever springs you want to run. Just remember if you lower your ride, you'll want to get matching struts as well.

The springs I used are the stock ride height: Lesjofors 42 084 57 in case you can't find them.

Tools you need are ratchet, sockets, crescent wrenches, spring compressor and ratchet strap.

If your ride isn't already bottomed out, you might want to jack up the car first so you don't mess up the air springs.

To remove the compressor, you need to remove the trunk floor, remove the spare tire, remove the 4 bolts holding down the funky dome under the spare, unplug the compressor, flip the dome over and remove the bottom, gut everything out of the dome and put it back together.

Remove the plastic cover surrounding the battery to unveil the computer. It should be labeled 37141092396 (rear axle computer)

Unbolt the plastic pieces around the left and right of the trunk that hold up the trunk floor. You have to remove the ones closest to you first. Once those are out, you can see the air tanks and can remove those and the lines.

Now unbolt the air springs and struts. If you haven't already, jack up the car.

Put the car high on jack stands and remove both wheels. Remove the ride height sensors (you may need to shove a thin wrench into the joint to remove the nut for the arm).

Have a friend stand on the hub and you can squeeze out the air springs much easier.

Once they're out, place the lower spring pad in and hold the upper spring pad in place. While the upper is in place, push the "cover" into it from the bottom and it will lock in place.

Use the spring compressor to compress the spring about 20%. Grab your ratchet strap and loop it around one side of the spring. It'll look a little funny, but you shouldn't be compressing it that much that another is necessary. Make sure you have at least 1 loop of spring left on each side or you won't be able to get the strap out later. Ratchet it down tight and remove the spring compressor.

Now have your friend stand on the hub again and cram the spring in there with the ratchet strap facing out. Have him get off so it's fairly compressed. If you can connect the strut back up, do it. Use a jack to jack up the hub so the strap is loose and then release it. Doing that will also allow you to line up the strut so you can bolt it back in, so check that as you're jacking.

Put everything back together and you're done!

Now bring the car to someone intelligent so they can reprogram the computer to not check for the air suspension and you're completely rid of the annoyance forever.

[romeokc10]

Nice write up, thanks!!

[romeokc10]

How's the ride and performance?

[rph74]

Where did you have your "self susp. inactive" message removed at? I had mine done at a dealership near Chicago. My local dealership in MO had it for 1 full week and failed. Converting to traditional coil springs was a great decision for me. No more air susp. worries.

Romeo-At least for me, there was absolutely no change in ride or handling. But I only had rear air susp.

Chris

[Jordo]

TrickerZ.....

You should put your modle year and engine size in your sig, so I don't have to ask what yours is...... so I know if your procedure would be the same as mine.

Thanks.

[HAMAR]

Can you post pic's of the new system?

[tonggi]

any chance you can post pictures of this DIY?

[jst2878]

Tonngi, thats some rear wing u have on that e46. does it create too much downforce or is it not that noticeable

[tonggi]

Originally Posted by jst2878

Tonngi, thats some rear wing u have on that e46. does it create too much downforce or is it not that noticeable

it creates prettry good downforce on the track. I see your in NYC, at NJMP its really noticeable on turn 2, turn 4, and turn 6.

Any turn over 80 helps. Creates a little bit more drag than the bigger wings made with metal stilts but for a fairly cheap, fairly oem looking wing. it isn't bad.

The flap is adjustable, straight, mid or high for more "downforce". I didn't get to time myself but was told I was doing 1:34 on thunderbolt with the chicane.

BTW its an E36 LTW wing, supposedly.

[Blue4.8is]

Tricker, Did you replace the rear or the front also? I am looking into swapping out for regular suspension also but not sure if i need to buy all the parts that are on realoem for the front strut mount.