How to remove hub from hub carrier??

[barryb97]

I used this one from Harbor freight:
FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters
But it took a tremendous amount of force and heat. Then when I reinstalled it I messed up the ABS sensor in the bearing and had to take it to the shop to be redone.

[amacman]

The real trick is installing the new bearing without causing any damage to the bearing and ensuring it is properly seated .
It is a friction fitting and has to be spotless clean in the knuckle .

[TriX5]

Many thanks guys, I think there are a couple of really good ideas here. However, I think if I bring it to BMW they will simply try to sell me a set of complete hubs/hub carriers. Dealers around here don't have much of a sense of humor.....

However, I have a nearby shop that pressed the bushings into my tension struts on the 4.4 and I was also going to ask them to press in the ones of my 4.8is. I think they could do the assembly of the hubs just fine but they might be a bit stumped on getting this apart. I don't really see a problem with breaking the old bearings apart on disassembly given the things are toast anyway.

Also, I suspect that the inner race might stay on the hub as posted above but a grinder should indeed take care of that. Once it is apart I think it is better to have them put it together with a proper press and treat the new bearing with TLC.

I will be back on this next weekend and will post some pics on how it works out.

[anthony1k]

I replaced the front left bearing not long ago. It is not a very difficult job if you have the right tools. The inner part of the bearing is really stout. Mine came out intact and it was pretty frozen in the carrier. I had to use a 12 ton press to get to it to budge. I could post my method if there is interest.

[TriX5]

Yes, I'd be curious to see how you did it.

[anthony1k]

Originally Posted by TriX5

Yes, I'd be curious to see how you did it.

There you go.

I’m going to assume that the carrier is off the car. For the job I used a Harbor Freight 12 ton press.

First I removed the brake shield. It is held by 3 small (10 mm?) bolts. I placed the carrier face down and balanced it flat on several stacked pieces of wood. Balancing the carrier flat at different points was actually the hardest part of the project. I used a deep socket to pound the hub out of the bearing. It took a heavy hammer and several strikes to break it loose. Once the hub is out the circlip that is in the front of the bearing must be removed. In my case it was rusted inside the groove and impossible to compress. I used a Rotozip to cut it in three pieces and I was able to remove the pieces and clean the groove. I tried to use a bearing removal set to pull out the bearing but it wound not badge. So I turned to the 12 ton press. Balancing the carrier on the frame of the press with enough space underneath to clear the bearing was pretty tricky. I used the biggest socket in my tool box to press against the bearing. It took almost the entire force of the 12 ton press to break the bearing loose from the carrier and slide it out. Contrary to what others said, in my case the old bearing came out totally intact. Before pressing in the new bearing, I used a 600 sandpaper to gently clean any surface rust and dirt from the inside of the carrier. I then balanced the carrier on the press frame again. Assorted pieces of wood were used to set the carrier flat on the frame and center it underneath the shaft of the press. This is pretty tricky as the back of the carrier is anything but flat. Before pressing in the bearing I applied a light coat of Loctite blue on the inside of the carrier. The bearing must be pressed in a certain orientation. There is a 1/16 inch notch around the outside on one side of the bearing. The bearing must be pressed in so that the notch is on the inside of the carrier. The new bearing was rested on the carrier and the old bearing was placed on top of that. A sturdy piece of flat metal was used to press against the old bearing and drive the new bearing all the way inside the carrier. A new circlip was used lock in the bearing in place. The hub was pressed in similarly inside the bearing. A light coat of oil was applied prior pressing it in.

Basically that was it. The whole job, including removing and reinstalling the carrier, took about five hours. A second pair of hands helping to balance the carrier at different would have saved a least an hour. But even without an assistant this was pretty straight forward. Obviously the hydraulic press is essential. A better quality bearing removal tool might have worked too.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Cheers

[powers1]

Originally Posted by anthony1k

There you go.

I’m going to assume that the carrier is off the car. For the job I used a Harbor Freight 12 ton press.

First I removed the brake shield. It is held by 3 small (10 mm?) bolts. I placed the carrier face down and balanced it flat on several stacked pieces of wood. Balancing the carrier flat at different points was actually the hardest part of the project. I used a deep socket to pound the hub out of the bearing. It took a heavy hammer and several strikes to break it loose. Once the hub is out the circlip that is in the front of the bearing must be removed. In my case it was rusted inside the groove and impossible to compress. I used a Rotozip to cut it in three pieces and I was able to remove the pieces and clean the groove. I tried to use a bearing removal set to pull out the bearing but it wound not badge. So I turned to the 12 ton press. Balancing the carrier on the frame of the press with enough space underneath to clear the bearing was pretty tricky. I used the biggest socket in my tool box to press against the bearing. It took almost the entire force of the 12 ton press to break the bearing loose from the carrier and slide it out. Contrary to what others said, in my case the old bearing came out totally intact. Before pressing in the new bearing, I used a 600 sandpaper to gently clean any surface rust and dirt from the inside of the carrier. I then balanced the carrier on the press frame again. Assorted pieces of wood were used to set the carrier flat on the frame and center it underneath the shaft of the press. This is pretty tricky as the back of the carrier is anything but flat. Before pressing in the bearing I applied a light coat of Loctite blue on the inside of the carrier. The bearing must be pressed in a certain orientation. There is a 1/16 inch notch around the outside on one side of the bearing. The bearing must be pressed in so that the notch is on the inside of the carrier. The new bearing was rested on the carrier and the old bearing was placed on top of that. A sturdy piece of flat metal was used to press against the old bearing and drive the new bearing all the way inside the carrier. A new circlip was used lock in the bearing in place. The hub was pressed in similarly inside the bearing. A light coat of oil was applied prior pressing it in.

Basically that was it. The whole job, including removing and reinstalling the carrier, took about five hours. A second pair of hands helping to balance the carrier at different would have saved a least an hour. But even without an assistant this was pretty straight forward. Obviously the hydraulic press is essential. A better quality bearing removal tool might have worked too.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

Cheers

Nicely explained and the proper way to do it.
Even at the dealer,we have to sort to the press because the Bmw special tools just cant budge it..
What other parts did you replace,apart from bearing?

[anthony1k]

Originally Posted by powers1

Nicely explained and the proper way to do it.
Even at the dealer,we have to sort to the press because the Bmw special tools just cant budge it..
What other parts did you replace,apart from bearing?

Thanks. I got a lot of help from this forum over the years. I'm trying give something back when I can.

I replaced the wheel bearing, the hub, the circlip and the axle nut.

Cheers

[DrumAdrian]

Originally Posted by anthony1k

Thanks. I got a lot of help from this forum over the years. I'm trying give something back when I can.

I replaced the wheel bearing, the hub, the circlip and the axle nut.

Cheers

Totally appreciated!

I second that sentiment. I'm going to make an effort to try and do the same myself. I would have recommended replacing the wheel carrier because I had this done on my 2000 BMW 540i a few years ago. The mechanic pressed in the bearing and then i had problems with the wheel carrier. He said BMW advised replacing the whole carrier and he didn't know that at the time because he usually presses them in. The difference may be how hard or soft the metal is and if it can tolerate it. I'm not sure. I'm glad the pros are on this board to give good advice, but now i gotta find friends with a 12 ton shop press! LoL

Adrian

P.S. i have no real BMW car friends, they are all just rich peeps that like shiny cars.....so alone LoL

[powers1]

Originally Posted by DrumAdrian

Totally appreciated!

I second that sentiment. I'm going to make an effort to try and do the same myself. I would have recommended replacing the wheel carrier because I had this done on my 2000 BMW 540i a few years ago. The mechanic pressed in the bearing and then i had problems with the wheel carrier. He said BMW advised replacing the whole carrier and he didn't know that at the time because he usually presses them in. The difference may be how hard or soft the metal is and if it can tolerate it. I'm not sure. I'm glad the pros are on this board to give good advice, but now i gotta find friends with a 12 ton shop press! LoL

Adrian

P.S. i have no real BMW car friends, they are all just rich peeps that like shiny cars.....so alone LoL

BMW service front bearing installation print out,states to replace bearing+ hub,circlip,axle nut and dust shield,..never had to replace a wheel carrier!You mechanic at the time must have fouled it when he used the press.
Good luck with your wheel bearing replacement