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#1
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Front thrust arm removal
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#2
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It is strange, neither of my cars presented that problem, the bolts should slide right out. Make sure there is no residual pressure from the strut.
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2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner (kid's runabout) 2014 535d X-drive, M package, silver/black interior Sold but not forgotten: 2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (sold 2021) 2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD in 2012 sadly... Other hardware: 2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm) 2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler 2005 Tundra crew cab, weekend hauler. Sold after 150k very happy miles. |
#3
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I know exactly what you are describing - Did both of my thrust arm bushings this last weekend. The plastic box is in the way on the driver's side. It is an airbox with some temp sensor (I think) at the front behind the grille, and looks like it vents upward along the side of the engine.
To get the driver side bolt out I took the two screws out to be able to move the wheel-well plastic lining. After you get access to it you can see to bolts above the airbox. Remove these and you may have enough room to get the bolt out. I had to unsnap the sides of the airbox and collapse it into itself to get enough room. Luckily passenger side doesn't have this. |
#4
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Thanks for the replies.
I'm not sure yet how to be careful of the residual pressure from the strut. But I'll probably figure that out as I go. And for replacing the bushings, I plan to drill into the rubber then use a hacksaw blade from inside the hole to cut to the outer bushing metal ring. Then I can compress the outer ring and push it out. I can hammer and/or press the new bushing in. This is how I did it on my E36. |
#5
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Quote:
I had to use tons of force, literally, to remove and insert the bushings into the arms. My 12ton shop press was working pretty damn hard to get those suckers replaced. Good luck.
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__________________ Now: E53 4.4i Sport E39 /// M5 back then: E36 E30 (x2) E21 |
#6
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did the OEM bushings appear damaged or from what i have read here leak fluid? i have been told mine need replacing but want to be sure before i go ahead
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#7
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They will leak fluid for a while but there is not that much in there. You can tell though by looking at them with a flash light, mine definitely had cracks in them.
Cannot be done reasonably without a good press, i bought the 20 Ton version. The bushings are very firmly held in the thrust arms.
__________________
2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner (kid's runabout) 2014 535d X-drive, M package, silver/black interior Sold but not forgotten: 2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (sold 2021) 2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD in 2012 sadly... Other hardware: 2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm) 2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler 2005 Tundra crew cab, weekend hauler. Sold after 150k very happy miles. |
#8
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Mine caused steering vibrations while breaking, I opted to just do a new arm on both sides. As everyone else said, a couple 8mm bols on the bottom of that plastic thing and it moves out of the way.
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#9
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It will be more easy to just replace the whole arm, buy an arm with brand 'lemforder', which in the fact is oem product. It's far cheap than the one marked 'BMW' but also made by 'lemforder'.
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--2004 E53 X5 4.8is - ECE version; right hand drive; Located in Hong Kong; ext. black sapphire metallic; int. leather black; adaptive dynamic bi-xenon headlights; 16:9 onboard monitor w/o navigation; 20" genuine BMW Y-spoke 214 wheels with Bridgestone Dueler H/P Sport tires; Int. rear view mirror w/ compass. |
#10
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ok thanks all, just wondering though does it make sense money wise to change the whole arm if i can get away with finding a decent mechanic who can just replace the bushings? i found the lemforder bushings for a reasonable price.....and not sure replacing the whole arm if the arm is ok will be the best way....economic crisis and the like hmmmmm |
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