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#1
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Has anyone tried this combo with success. Cross drilled Stop Tech rotors with Red Stuff pads? Seems like quality parts at a reasonable price. |
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#2
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Can I suggest that unless you take your truck to the track and are prepared to clean out the holes on a regular basis that you go a solid rotor.
I have always run drilled rotors on track cars but would steer clear of them for a road vehicle for the following reasons. 1. Reduced lifespan (about 10 - 15% less) 2. Increased maintenance (cleaning out the holes with compressed air very regularly 3. Reduced pad life due to higher friction coefficients If you want the holes for aesthetics then go for it but for a road car there are only downsides to solid discs (performance and safety related). Oh and the main one, solid rotors are cheaper As for the EBC pads I love EBC pads they are nice and smooth in gentle braking and solid during high load braking. My 2c |
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#3
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Thanks for that info. I had no idea cross drilled required cleaning. I had cross drilled Brembos on a import tuner I had many years ago and never had any issues. Where a good place to order and what brand do you redcommend?
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#4
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I've always liked Brembo rotors. I get them off ebay UK but I think ECS sell them
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#5
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Brembo blanks are a proven winner on the X5. EBC Redstuffs, Akebono Ceramics, and Axxis Ceramics are our most popular pads for the X, all will help cut down on the dust while giving you nice bite and solid braking. We have RPS (Rotor, Pad, Sensor) kits available as well to make it even easier to replace the brakes on your X5 with "the good stuff"
What model is your X? HERE is a link for the 06 4.4 X5s brakes. ![]() ECS Tuning
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#6
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I have a 3.0 sport. That kit looks pretty good. I'll check it out for sure, thanks
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#7
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I too purchased the stop tech drilled rotors and am getting the same steering shake when you jump in the brakes cold at above 80 mph. I put I'd down to worn control arm bushes but it could be pad material build up. The stop tech pads do produce lots or dust. Hmmm
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#8
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Quote:
ECS Tuning
__________________
![]() Have questions? Need answers? Live Chat us! 8:30am to 12:00am Midnight EST [email protected] | [email protected] 800.924.5172 Facebook | YouTube OEM BMW Part Number Search |
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#9
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There are three causes for steering shake under braking, although one is disputed by the experts:
1. warped rotors (disputed) 2. brake dust deposits on rotors 3. worn or loose front control arm bushings On the warped rotor debate I am on the side of the skeptics. Much has been written that support that position from people who should know. One exception is warped rotors as the result of extremely tight lug nuts. That leaves 2 and 3. Certain brake pad types are more prone to dust deposit build up. I'll be curious to know what brands people are using with kind of results. Typically OEM is the safe choice. On the control arm bushings, the lower (rear) is often the culprit. And it is not so much that the bushings wear out but more often the nuts that hold the bolts in place loosen up and allow movement inside the subframe. Together with dust deposits on rotors, this will result in the dreaded shake. These need to be torqued at around 74 lbs-ft if I remember correctly. This is often overlooked but easy enough to check. |
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#10
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I also get a clunking noise from front right wheel when I turn slowly like coming into the driveway. It is not consistant. seems to depend how much steering lock is applied. Not sure if it is all related. I just fitted new struts and shocks (Bilstein). Brakes (Irotor- centric with stoptech pads) and yes I fell for the slotted drilled look. I cannot see that these rotors could be warped and the theory of brake dust build seems a remote possibility.
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