12V Remote Power Source Up Front

[we350z]

OK - so I need to relocate my Scosche BlueLife receiver from the amp area in the rear of the vehicle to the console storage bin. The reception is not quite good enough at this distance from my phone so hoping moving it closer to my phone will help keep it from breaking up occasionally.

It needs a 12V Remote Power source - it doesn't use much amps so shouldn't overload anythign. From what I understand I can either tap into the ashtray light OR I can tap into the flashlight port to cigarette lighter adapter I have (currently powering my V1).

Thinking the adapter might be easier, not sure which wire - hopefully this will become apparent. Should be easy to snug the wire up the plastic trim.

Any suggestions or tips?

--Thanks!

[PersonaNonGrata]

How about the 12V plug under the dash in the passenger side footwell?

[we350z]

Isn't that always on?

[PUREVIL]

Yes it is. But you can change that.

[we350z]

how so?

[we350z]

BUMP

So I am confused - I need a 12V wire to tap up front near the center console. Not sure how to switch the cig lighter in the rear to power on with ignition vs. always on. I could tap the flashlight aux cig lighter adapter i have but not sure how to tell which wire is 12V. Hoping when i cut it open it's obvious I guess I can always use the multimeter elsewise.

[PUREVIL]

See the attached photo for how this can be done. The photo is from MY OWN car, not something I found somewhere.
Use the upper contact in the two fuse positions where you see my wire. You will need two short sections of wire, 4 spade ends, one 30A fuse, and a tiny bit of mechanical ability.

If you can make yours look like mine, your cig lighters will power up with the ignition key.

I did this so I can leave my radar detector plugged into the passenger footwell power port without draining the battery.

Hope this helps.

[PUREVIL]

Oh yeah, doing it "my way" does not produce any fault codes that may be associated with splicing into other circuits.
I had to take the whole glove box out, pull away the center console panel, remove the lower hvac ducting, pull the fuse panel, and trace the wiring for each item while checking for constant/ignition-only power to figure out how to make it work... but once I had it sorted I decided to run an "external" wire. This way I can return it to stock without taking anything apart.

There may be other ways but this one should be easy enough for just about anyone.