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  #201  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post

When you say shifts will be smoother, we should qualify that clutch engagement will be smoother, or more predictable, but that doesn't relate to gearshift notchiness, which I think of when hearing the synchro comment that was originally mentioned.

Absolutely Jeff and well put, the clutch engagement is smoother which makes for a more positive shifting experience. I have not driven in car with worn synchros so I couldn't comment on how that would be, I also suggested to smi270 to change transmission fluid to see if it helps his gearbox. I replaced with Redline MTL with great results (no better than OE fluid though)
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  #202  
Old 02-05-2013, 06:04 AM
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Hi Guys,

Greetings from a newby in London!

I have a manual 3.0D 2006 model and it's such a rare car over here (99% are autos) that i'm struggling to find help with a problem i'm having.

To cut a long story short, after a long journey and never having had any previous issues, i put the car in reverse to park and there was a loud clunk, followed by juddering of the car. Parked up then the next day i came to try and drive the car and it felt like one of the brake calipers was stuck on. It eased after a while and i had the brakes checked out, none of which were sticking. I did have the 3 warn ing lights on tho, - 4x4, abs and brakes. The garage checked the code and it said 5f3a transfer case malfunction. Garage then checked the usual suspect of the actuator and said it was working fine. Therefore, i presume the only other culprit can be the transfer case itself?

Has anyone had similar symptoms? Is it usually transfer case? Are they a weakness more on the manuals than autos? Also, are the manual transfer cases different to the auto versions? Trying to get hold of a reconditioned one, but don't fancy my chances if they are different boxes!

Someone also mentioned it could be front diff. Anyone experiences this?

Thanks for your help guys.
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  #203  
Old 02-06-2013, 06:39 PM
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Had the truck looked at my a friend who owns a trans shop. After test drive hes got his money on the pinion bearing so looks like im gonna do a clucth on this beast in the near future. Since its tough to shift through all gears and not just one he has ruled old worn syncros and the pinion bearing no allowing full disengagement . Also as he put it the you can not ride the clutch its just a on/off point. After getting some prices I really hope i do not have to replace the pressure plat 510.00 my cost 1000.00 fromt eh dealer.

anyway i was gonna tackle the job myself but its cold and hes gonna chargeme not much to pull it and do it rather then me do it out in the cold.

clutch is 310. plus 19.00 for the are and 2.00 for a another little part.

If you guys know a cheaper setup let me know ( these are all LUK parts)

Also who has done a clutch on these trucks looks straight forward to me and i've wrestled VR6 trannys out of there tetris hole many times this one actually looks easy peasy.
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  #204  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:44 AM
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I would go with the OEM setup, hopefully that solves your issues! Good job that you get good pricing too, you work for a dealer?
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2003 X5 3.0i 5-Speed - Born on 9/18/2003
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  #205  
Old 02-10-2013, 06:16 AM
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I finally got around to changing the shift detent pins and bushes today. A bigger job than I had hoped but thanks to my mate Mario, we did it in a day. We had to remove the box and do it on the bench. It has made a big difference, however it may be a bit too late as I think the syncro on second is a bit far gone. If this job is done early enough it would have saved the syncros.
For people who dont know, the detent pins allow for smooth gear changes and can get worn and sticky. I believe this is only an issue on the 5 speeds.
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  #206  
Old 02-10-2013, 06:26 PM
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I'm curious about these detent pins. This is the first I have eard but I will replace these also. How long did it take you to drop the trans? And do you have a link to these pins? Thanks
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  #207  
Old 02-11-2013, 03:42 AM
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I split the transfer case from the box to make it easier, but all up it took 3 hours to remove, 1 hour to do the work and about 2-3 hours to replace the box.

The link I used is a few pages back in this thread. Thanks to Davintosh.

How to: Service your transmission shift pins.

You dont need the drift set. I just used longreach sockets and bolts.
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  #208  
Old 02-12-2013, 11:25 PM
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Hey guys, between 1-3mph, do you guys get a dead spot and then a pretty good "jerk" forward? If I let out the clutch (all the way) and then slowly roll into the throttle up to maybe 25% or so for barely quicker than normal acceleration, it lags for a split second and then jerks forward as if the clutch wasn't all the way out. I was thinking maybe the clutch delay valve but wanted some feedback.

Thanks!
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  #209  
Old 02-13-2013, 01:34 AM
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Once you have let the clutch out the CDV is no longer a factor.
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  #210  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:46 PM
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That's it it went out last night(the clutch ) stuck in 4th I limped it home and AAA to my buddies trans shop. Should find out today the culprit
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