Engine mount, right driver side as suspected.

[SlickGT1]

Not sure how to even answer you. That is some ebay stuff. These really aren't expensive direct from BMW. Search forum for Craig Hacker, he gives us club people discounts, basically 15% over cost.

[bcredliner]

You will have no idea what you are getting if you purchase on Ebay. There are many posts where owners have purchased parts from Ebay vendors that were not to spec or did not last as long as EOM parts. Check the prices at Bavauto or Google BMW parts and shop that way. I don't remember the name of the site but there is a site that will tell you the least cost source.

[bcredliner]

Furiousmethod.com - BMW Parts Price Comparison

Try the above link.

[woody089]

Awesome site! Thanks.

[crystalworks]

Just saying thanks for the info Slick. I was 95% sure my motor mounts were shot... and now am 100% sure. Will be DIY'ing this when I have the engine apart for valve stem seals, alternator bracket gasket, upper timing cover gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.

That's going to be one helluva week or two... not looking forward to it.

[mikes123]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Just saying thanks for the info Slick. I was 95% sure my motor mounts were shot... and now am 100% sure. Will be DIY'ing this when I have the engine apart for valve stem seals, alternator bracket gasket, upper timing cover gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.

That's going to be one helluva week or two... not looking forward to it.

Good luck. If you take your axles out, you don't have to drop the subframe. Just need to jack the motor up a little and they will come out. It's a PITA at first trying to figure out how to get to the bolts, but once you do, it's really not too bad.

[1stE53]

As far a parts: husker BMW or autohausaz. Don't go through all the work and have cheap in in parts.
Good luck

[bcredliner]

With the BMW part number you can compare prices of reputable vendors at Furiousmethod.com - BMW Parts Price Comparison.

[admranger]

I'm having that slight vibration feel as described above.

Since I already have a huge pile of parts for the rear suspension refresh (nearly 94k on her now), what's one more project?

I needed a couple of other things so I'll just add this to the order.

Love the tip about taking the passenger side one out first, then tackling the driver side mount r&r and finishing by installing the new passenger mount.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

It is messed up tight in there on the 4.8. Plus the mounts are not on center in relation to the engine. The pass side, is more forward, and is much easier. Maybe, just maybe if you take it out first, you might be able to rotate the engine just a bit more, but I doubt it. What the mech did, was actually unscrew, the entire subframe, and supported it all on stands. Then used another stand to lift the engine on that side only. When that was at the safe max point, as in not to damage any wires or hoses, one mechanic hung on the rear of the driver side subframe, while the other rotated and wiggled the mount out. It came out of the mount holder pretty easy, it just wouldn't come out of the area. He was about to take out the axle at one point, but decided to give it another shot with a second set of hands. Oh, he didn't even take off the wheels. The collection of tools he has though to get in there is pretty amazing. You will definitely need a ratchet where the head is on 45 degrees to the handle. He got all the bolts and screws from the bottom as well. No way to get it from the top.

Pass side is relatively easy, and can be DIY. For sure.

By the way forgot to mention. The driver side mount leaked out oil as soon as he flipped it out of the cup. The pass side mount was still sealed. I think it might have been changed, or there is really not much abuse on that side. It looked pretty much like the one I just purchased, no real noticeable wear. That's why he suggested I hold onto it. Either way, just watch your face when you flip the mounts, if the mount is shot, oil will come out. I though there was no oil, but apparently I was wrong.

Again, I can't even describe how happy I am now. No vibrations at all. Drive, reverse, at a light, nothing. The boat rocking during shifts is also gone.

Yea give your tactic a try. Might work better, especially if you are going to try and DIY this. Let us know how it goes. For what they charged me though, I would not even bother attempting this myself.

Well, I tackled this today and I'm still struggling. Let's put it this way, the driver's side mount is not your friend. Passenger side isn't a cakewalk either, but it will come out if you lower the subframe on that side an inch or so. The problem is the front axle cv joints hit the body and prevent the motor from rotating enough to give room. It's stupid tight on the driver's side, as mentioned above. That's where I'm about to give up. My wife was hanging on the pry bar and I still didn't have enough room. It's a retarded design...

Pelican's website had a how to and had me thinking it would be a lot easier than it is but clearly they were working with a 6 cylinder X5. I should have known when their first steps wouldn't work (taking the nut/bolts out on the passenger side from above -- can't happen with my set of tools and I've got a ton of them...

Moral of the story is have a shop do your driver's side mount unless you have the half shaft out for some other reason. And, if you are taking the half shaft out, you might want to consider replacing the driver's side mount. Seriously...