Helicoil or timesert or what else?

fmugur · #1 07-19-2012, 02:26 PM

When talking the wheel carier out I ran into seized bolt which came out eventually but a piece of thread was stuck right at the top of the bolt and pulled it through. So the thread in the wheel carrier is damaged and I need to fix it.
I looked into helicoil and timesert although so far I found only helicoil available locally.
The thread in the wheel carier is about 20mm, the helicoil does not cover the entire length. I assume I can use two coils to fill up the entire thread.
The other option is the timesert which is I guess better and it comes in one piece.
Did you guys use any of this stuff?

The damaged thread in the wheel carrier is where bolt 5 goes in.

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SlickGT1 · #2 07-21-2012, 08:42 PM

Time-sert for the win. Or straight up tap a new thread.

fmugur · #3 07-22-2012, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Time-sert for the win. Or straight up tap a new thread.

Thanks StickGT1. There was no other option locally, so I bought the expensive M12 1.5 helicoil which was $107 vs. the 1.25 that was $65. I debated between changing the bolt to a 1.25 pitch and get the cheaper helicoil but I decided to stay with the original bolt. I used a coil and three threads from another coil and got it fully repaired. It worked perfect. I torqued it at 105 NM as per TIS.

SlickGT1 · #4 07-22-2012, 10:00 AM

I know a place that will ship time-sert overnight for free. I also don't like stacking heli-coil, there is a big chance you are cross threading the lower coil.

TwinTurboGTR · #5 07-22-2012, 10:15 AM

Now these things are cool; ive never seen these before. But I agree with Slick in stacking. I prefer tapping a hole. Would the ID be bigger than the OD of the bolt??? Maybe. I am like you and would prefer to use the same bolt. Now sometimes, you can tap the hole out. No reaming, just straight tap at a very slow speed. Then with the bolt, take a die and chase the threads. Normally there should be enough material to catch the threads. But if the ID is out by more than .3, then there isn;t enough material left and then those helicoils would be a great alternative.

fmugur · #6 07-23-2012, 04:40 PM

I was worried about stacking helicoils but I did it very carefully and it worked well stacking them. I used loctite between the helicoil and wheel carier. The thread is strong as new if not better since the helicoil are not aluminium. That's my first thread I fixed and never thought it could be repaired that well.

Ski0331 · #7 07-23-2012, 10:20 PM

have u guys even tried to do it...or u just throwing your opinions out ...metal is so freaking hard what drill are u going to use to borrow new hole out helicoil is good for aluminum and soft metal good luck working on hard metals with that....have a machine shop do it for your dont waist time like i did....or just replace whole wheel hub and bearing....just saying...it not do it at home job unless u completly replacing it then u can do it u still need special tools to take wheel lugnut
off.

TwinTurboGTR · #8 07-23-2012, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ski0331

have u guys even tried to do it...or u just throwing your opinions out ...metal is so freaking hard what drill are u going to use to borrow new hole out helicoil is good for aluminum and soft metal good luck working on hard metals with that....have a machine shop do it for your dont waist time like i did....or just replace whole wheel hub and bearing....just saying...it not do it at home job unless u completly replacing it then u can do it u still need special tools to take wheel lugnut
off.

???

I can't speak for others, but have I done it? Yes. Was it difficult? Not any more difficult then anything else. I wouldn't use a drill to increase the ID anyway. I use a carbide tipped reamer and go slow and increase the ID. You can get it done on the car or off. Easier off, but not impossible.

SlickGT1 · #9 07-24-2012, 07:24 AM

I've done it. I've even used a drill to drill out 6, half inch thick bolts. It took forever. I then enlarged the holes, the got a crazy tap to go one Id over, and had to get custom bolts made because I couldn't find exact ones I needed. I still have a box of 94 if anyone needs em. Lol. This was on a subframe. I had a dipshit idiot friend help me on a project. Dumbass used a breaker bar, with a floor jack handle (4 feet long) and spun all my subframe bolts the wrong effin way. I almost killed him. I mean how much of a dumbass are you to not only spin one the wrong way, but proceed to do another 5.

I've drilled a bigger hole in a head at home, but I have a drill press. I wouldn't do hand drill thing on the head. But I used a drill bit. You just need to remember, that drilling metal, you go slow, and need good bits.

TwinTurboGTR · #10 07-24-2012, 08:24 AM

to your friend, lol. Maybe he thought, "Damn, bastards are on tight! Eh, I'll just put a little more mustard on that sucker." As the threads start going down the toilet. "Ok got that loose, on to the next."

lol, if threads could talk, they probably would have said, "No, daddy Nooooooooo!" lol

But I hear ya. I mean If I need to drill through a head, first I curse, then whip out the Center drill, get that bastard goin. Then Step drill with Carbide tips. When most of the material is gone. Start step reaming it out. I try to get it to the same ID size as OE, then just tap that bastard out. Now if only I could figure out how to get the angle to 0* when tapping on the car, then I would be the best machinist ever. lol

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