Misfire on all cylinders on one side

[bastereo]

Pulling freezeframe data is not going to provide any new info. The data is stored when the code sets, not when you access it.

I take back my earlier comment on pulling the valve cover for that noise. If it was the other bank nevermind.
But you are going to end up pulling it anyways to fix those threads.

Going back, you said you pulled the coil connectors when the car was running and it made no difference in how the engine ran. Then later pulled the coils, put the plugs in them and there was spark correct?
If pulling the ignition coil connectors while the engine was running really made no difference, it is not likely a vacuum/leak issue.

I would do a compression test (not likely to reveal the issue, but would give some piece of mind that the internals are ok) and verify the injectors are getting power and pulse width on the ground side.

Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express

[mrathell]

Originally Posted by bastereo

......and verify the injectors are getting power and pulse width on the ground side.

Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express

Is there a procedure for doing this?

[Rewmer]

(fuel trim bank 2) & P0159 (O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 2)

may be nothing more than a duff O2 then ? .A free way to check is to clear the codes and swap the forward two O2 sensors over and see if you get any codes logged on bank 1. Wont cost you a penny (Dime).

[mrathell]

would the that be the one before or after the catalytic convertor?

[mrathell]

I went out to switch the left and right front O2 sensors as suggested.

The drivernsidemone came off with zero effort but the passenger side one was a different story.

I was only able to turn it a quarter turn after some serious effort. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster and worked and back and forth before turning it another quarter turn (the equally as much effort as before). After 30 minutes of repeating this action over and over again, I gave up.

I gave up because I started getting that weird feeling that I may be making a bad situation worse.

I think it's easier to just pick up a new O2 sensor at NAPA, if it doesn't work, I can just return it.

[bastereo]

If you think you have a bad o2 sensor, just unplug both and clear the codes.
The computer will just ignore the o2 info and run both banks the same.

But you have damaged thread on that o2 sensor, well more importantly the exhaust.
Get a tap for that o2 bung in the exhaust while you are out at napa. If you are lucky there will still be enough thread left to clean up and install the new sensor.

And didn't you already run the car without the o2 sensor installed, to check for a plugged cat?


And, no sorry, no procedure to check for 12 volts to the fuel injectors, that should be easy enough
Buy a noid light set when you are out at napa (or kragen, or some other parts store) plug it in, in place of an injector. Should flash when the engine is running or cranking, if the dme is trying to fire the injectors.
They have cheap compression testers at most auto parts stores, might as well pick one of those up too, even though its not likely to show you the problem.


Man, this truck is getting bad, stripped valve cover bolt holes, galled o2 sensor bung, missing cabin air filter housing, still misfiring on one bank.

[mrathell]

Originally Posted by bastereo

If you think you have a bad o2 sensor, just unplug both and clear the codes.
The computer will just ignore the o2 info and run both banks the same..

This morning I unplugged the left and right side pre-cat O2 sensors. I then cleared the codes and started it up. At first it ran a lot smoother than it had in the past but that was short lived.

I took it out for a drive and as soon as I hit the gas pedal, the check engine light went out. This was the very first time I've ever driven the car without the check engine light. But the light would come back on when I took my foot off of the gas. The light always went out during acceleration and stayed off sometimes while coasting.

I cleared the codes while I was driving a scanned for new codes. While I was driving with the check engine light off and accelerating, I scanned for new codes and the only codes that generated were for the O2 sensors. When I ran the scanner again with my foor off of the pedal, I pulled the misfire codes for all driver side cylinders. I tried this method several times with the same results. Like clock work, as soon as I hit the gas pedal, the check engine light would go out.

my assumptions are:

If its not pulling the misfire codes while I'm driving then the fuel injectors are definitly getting power and spraying fuel.

there shouldnt be anything internal (lifters, cams..) because that issue wouldn't go away because I'm accelerating. If those parts were bad, they would always be bad even while accelerating and at idle.

Is the O2 sensor pre-cat driver side the issue or part of the issue or only a victim of something else?

Originally Posted by bastereo

And didn't you already run the car without the o2 sensor installed, to check for a plugged cat?.

Yes I did. Driver side pre-cat

Originally Posted by bastereo

Man, this truck is getting bad, stripped valve cover bolt holes, galled o2 sensor bung, missing cabin air filter housing, still misfiring on one bank.

These are extremely small potatoes as far as I'm concerned. I can easily remedy these myself at no cost and some of my own time. I've aready picked up a new filter houseing for $150 for the entire assembly.

[bastereo]

Assumptions suck, I rule things out, not guess and hope.
Your issue is most present at idle/when coasting, test things at idle.
Those cylinders are not working at idle, you need to figure out why.
Without access to the live data stream, you need to really test things and hope you find it that way.
No internet searches or assumptions are going to substitute for time spent trouble shooting at this point.

[bastereo]

Originally Posted by mrathell

These are extremely small potatoes as far as I'm concerned. I can easily remedy these myself at no cost and some of my own time.

Glad to hear that. Most guys in their driveway get scared at stripped threads.

[Skyline]

If you still can't get that O2 sensor out, may I suggest a Snap-on Impact crow foot O2 sensor socket. Those you can hit the tab with a big hammer. If doing that, and using PB Blaster doesn't do it, you need to use a torch or inductive heater to get it red hot. And be prepared with the proper tap, you will need that. Those chrome O2 sockets are not as good when you get a tough to remove sensor.

Here's the Snap-on tool:
SWR2, Socket, Oxygen Sensor, 7/8" (22 mm) Hex, 3/8" Drive

There are of course a variety of very decent Chicom versions of this same tool made, at lower prices, but I am not a fan of buying any Chicom tools unless absolutely necessary.