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  #11  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theblue View Post
good stuff, I do a lot of my own work also, but my rule is that if it costs more for me to buy the tools I'll probably never use again then I'm just going to pay. Especially if it's over something like $20.
Well from what I read here, these thrust arm bushings don't last all that long.

But that's why I posted here. The Baum tool is $500+ and also requires a hydraulic pump (like a Porta-power). Too much for me. There were loads of not-too-expensive bushing tool options that I saw on eBay...I just have no idea which if any are good, and which will even do the job. And I'm sure there are a number of options that are not on eBay either. But I am talking about saving several hundred dollars on shop labor to change a number of front suspension components all at once. So I'd rather spend that same money on tools, since my labor is "free", and then I will have the tools for future jobs.

I guarantee I could do this without any special tools; I do have some big sockets, and I've got a large Snap-on bushing driver set. But it would be better to have the exact driver and "receiver" support (for the other side as you press), as that is always better and safer. A hydraulic press can be dangerous, and especially if you try to press something that's not 100% square, it can be a problem. Also, in the case of these bushings, you definately need something on the backside as you press, as they protrude from both sides of the arm. Even better would be if the tool has a threaded rod of some sort so you could change them on the car.
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Last edited by Skyline; 09-20-2012 at 10:49 AM.
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  #12  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
It might be the same or similar tool to the rear trailing link on the 3 series. The bushings seem to be of similar size. I don't have that tool though. Last time, I just went at it the hard way, with a sawzall.

lol...I don't think you could put them IN with the sawzall though!
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  #13  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:56 AM
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I was planning on using my 12 ton press I bought from harbor freight for ~$150

However I wasn't able to release the thrust rod at the ball joint - i had so much pressure on the puller that it popped off! Not sure how else to do it without using a pickle fork and possibly destroying it.
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  #14  
Old 09-20-2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nom3rcy View Post
I was planning on using my 12 ton press I bought from harbor freight for ~$150

However I wasn't able to release the thrust rod at the ball joint - i had so much pressure on the puller that it popped off! Not sure how else to do it without using a pickle fork and possibly destroying it.
What type of press were you using to try to get the arm off?
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyline View Post
What type of press were you using to try to get the arm off?
One of these gear pullers:

Craftsman 2-3 Jaw Gear Puller - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

I eventually put the impact on it and only made a few turns before it popped off.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by nom3rcy View Post
One of these gear pullers:

Craftsman 2-3 Jaw Gear Puller - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

I eventually put the impact on it and only made a few turns before it popped off.

Definitely NOT the best tool for the job. You need to get one of these similar to the factory tool shown in the Bentley Manual. There are several versions of this tool around in the market. I have not done this job yet, so I don't know which is best. I have several of these; a smaller one from Stahlwille, and two from a K-D front end kit. There's also one with a Honda part number. AST also sells them. The longer style looks to be closest to the BMW factory tool shown here. There are sets of these on eBay where you can get the short and long version for $69. But at that price, I assume Chinese copys. Still better than what you are trying to use:
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  #17  
Old 09-20-2012, 01:51 PM
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Had I have known how much force was needed to release it I wouldn't have even tried. Thanks for the info on those tools I'll probably invest in the factory kit.
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:01 PM
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Do you have a source that stocks the factory tools? I thought I had found what I needed; Baum Tools had the factory bushing tool on their web site (312260), but said they don't have it or even have any clue if it's available, but they are checking. So I'm still looking.

If I were you, I, Id get the AST tool:

VW, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, Volkswagen, Audi, Ford, Dodge and other Tools for Specialty Applications
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:09 PM
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I was looking up those tools you were talking about on e-bay and all of them seem competent enough to tackle the job. They are all made in china, so pick your poison. The Baum tool set would be best, but not at $500.

As for the ball joint removal tool, I had to do this job again. The first time around I just used a pickle fork, but damaged the old boots so badly, I had to replace them. So if you are planning to replace the Tension strut and ball joint, forget about removing it. Just loosen the bushing from the frame and then unbolt the ball joint from the swivel bearing. From there, just pound the ball joint off. Then just put the new parts in.

If you need to save the ball joint or just plan on replacing the bushing in the tension strut, then you can just go to harbor freight tools. They have a similar product and I bought it for $10. Used it twice and it still looks brand new and did a fine job.

Just my $.02. I am a tool whore and will always buy the best tools money can buy, but... if I can find a comparable tool for tell money and does the job, I will buy it.

Would I love a set of Snap-on everything. Sure as hell I would. The only Snap on equipment I have are my torque wrenches I purchased from a estate sale and various universal joints i purchased at flea markets when the guy selling it had no idea what snap on was and I bought stuff for $.50 to a $1.00. I own Craftsman wrenches, sockets, etc. Lifetime warranty, they are strong and look good. I personally don't like polished Chrome. I'd rather have the finish sandblasted and have that Matte look, but not willing to pay a premium for it.

BTW if anyone is wondering about Craftsman's warranty, it is excellent. I've broken 2 3/8" ratchets, a 19mm socket, a box end wrench when the chrome started to flake off. All replaced within minutes, no questions asked. I like it.

When I did need specialty took, I purchased them at Samtagsales.com and metainerd.com
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  #20  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR View Post
I was looking up those tools you were talking about on e-bay and all of them seem competent enough to tackle the job. They are all made in china, so pick your poison. The Baum tool set would be best, but not at $500.
What seems pretty critical is the size of the cups. I'm reluctant to put done money on one that does not specifically say it will be the exact right size for the E53. If I wanted just sort of close, (without spending 500 for a master set), I already have a ball joint press accessory set that has a lot of different cups...I'll just try that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR View Post
As for the ball joint removal tool, I had to do this job again. The first time around I just used a pickle fork, but damaged the old boots so badly, I had to replace them. So if you are planning to replace the Tension strut and ball joint, forget about removing it. Just loosen the bushing from the frame and then unbolt the ball joint from the swivel bearing. From there, just pound the ball joint off. Then just put the new parts in.
I already have two versions of the equivalent for the factory tool. I've used these many times on BMWs and other cars before...they never damage the boots of ball joints or tie rods.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR View Post
I own Craftsman wrenches, sockets, etc. Lifetime warranty, they are strong and look good. I personally don't like polished Chrome. I'd rather have the finish sandblasted and have that Matte look, but not willing to pay a premium for it.

BTW if anyone is wondering about Craftsman's warranty, it is excellent. I've broken 2 3/8" ratchets, a 19mm socket, a box end wrench when the chrome started to flake off. All replaced within minutes, no questions asked. I like it.
Sears is currently in the process of transferring manufacturing of all of their hard line tools to China. So when that next Craftsman tool breaks, you may well get back a Chinese made replacement..and possibly of a different design. Not to mention that Sears is not doing particularly well these days....it may not even be around much longer. If you want really nice American made tools, and don't want to pay Snap-on prices, I would consider S-K. The have been reborn out of bankruptcy with new owners and a new factory. Very nice stuff.
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