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  #11  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:19 PM
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pezho405 View Post

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Wow, the same yet so different! I can't wait to pick up a n62 as my next project, but I am actually holding out from a s62 if anyone see one
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2012, 09:53 PM
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I agree with Duke on things to replace... But wrong motor. Both of Duke's motors are the M62 config. But the principles are pretty much the same. Just not sure if you can use the M62 cam locking tools on a N62 motor.
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2012, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pezho405 View Post

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Top right hand corner - a mini X in the engine bay. Hahaha
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  #15  
Old 10-27-2012, 01:17 PM
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Top right hand corner - a mini X in the engine bay. Hahaha
Yup sure is!
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2013, 05:22 PM
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That picture tells you something important.

The upper timing chain housing is now part of the cylinder head.

On the M62 it wasn't - you took away some bolts and then you could remove the front part of the cylinder head, and slide the chain guides forward.

I'm afraid on the N62, the right-hand side requires removal of the cylinder head in order to change the guides. I can't see any way around it anyway.

On the left hand side of the engine (opposite to the picture above), you can replace them easily, because the pivot bolts/bearings screw out from the front. On the problematic side, they screw out from behind the guide.

Here are some pictures:


Here you can see the part of the cylinder head that is not removable in the N62. This is supposedly an improvement over the M62. Not for the customer!!




Here you can see *behind* the right-side chain guides. This is where you have to unscrew the bearing bolts - the pivot points for the guides on this side. They can only be unscrewed *after* removing the guides, by sliding the guides forwards, which you can't do because of the cylinder head mentioned above.


Here is the same from the front. The guides need to slide forward off here:


Here you can see the other side of the engine - the left side (left side if we were sat in the seats of the car). On this side the pivot screws / bearing bolts actually just remove from the front easily, and then you can drop the guides down / manoeuvre them out no problem.



Last thing to share: in 2005 the chain guides were updated. They are now longer, and also on the left side - those that can actually be replaced fairly easily (presuming you already have the engine in bits to fix a leaky coolant pipe or alternator bracket oil seal), the pivot screw/bearing bolt is larger, so newer ones of those (those circled in the picture just above) are needed to go with the newer guides.

You have to replace the guides in pairs (top/bottom), and the older part is no longer available. If it were, you might be able to just pop the plastic bit out of the middle and at least replace that bit on the troublesome right side.

The Febi parts are actually OEM BMW parts, and they have ground-out the BMW logos and the words BMW off of them.

Here are some old-v-new pictures. This is the left-side upper (plastic) guide. The lower metal guide is also increased in size about the same amount.





Of course prior to all this, you have to remove the lower timing cover.
The secret to that, IMO, is to remove the lower oil pan, and just loosen the bolts to the upper oil pan a little. Then the timing cover will pop off easily. Cylinder heads can stay put. Alternator and A/C compressor need to be removed, because they are doweled into the side of the timing cover, or their brackets are (alternator bracket is, and a/c compressor itself is).

Cost me $0.25 to share all that with you! I don't even have an X

Last edited by carl0s; 07-26-2013 at 09:24 PM.
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl0s View Post
That picture tells you something important.

....

Of course prior to all this, you have to remove the lower timing cover.
The secret to that, IMO, is to remove the lower oil pan, and just loosen the bolts to the upper oil pan a little. Then the timing cover will pop off easily. Cylinder heads can stay put. Alternator and A/C compressor need to be removed, because they are doweled into the side of the timing cover, or their brackets are (alternator bracket is, and a/c compressor itself is).

Cost me $0.25 to share all that with you! I don't even have an X
Thanks for the great info! and welcome!
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2013, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pezho405 View Post
Thanks for the great info! and welcome!
You're welcome Haven't found anybody else talking about N62 chain guides on the Internet. I wish the outcome was better.. I have all four new guides here, but it looks like I'll only be replacing the left side pair
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2017, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pezho405 View Post
This isnt the N62
That is correct. The engine shown in that video is not an N62. The engine in my 645Ci has extended mountings on the cylinder head castings. The timing chain guides and timing chain are behind these. It appears that you cannot replace the timing chain components without removing the cylinder heads.

Does anyone know how to get around this problem ????

(sorry, I didn't see the replies above until after I had submitted my post. It looks like they answer my question. Cylinder heads must come off to replace timing chain guides. The pictures in the post by Carl0s do not come out when I view it. What do I need to change to see those pictures ?)

Last edited by kavala; 10-09-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2017, 06:23 PM
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Good day!!

I had a thread with my 2004 N62 rebuild on here with pictures, but photobucket destroyed that when they got rid of free hosting...

I'll see if I can put some on here directly for you... I also try to do a write up on it in the near future...

From my pictures, you MIGHT be able to do the guides with the heads installed... The lower cover has bolts that go thru a casting for the cylinder head, but they aren't the main head bolts used to hold compression. I took the chain cover off the front of the block with the heads on to seal the water passage better. I'll do a little detailed posting here with pictures in a second... I have to upload them and attach them...

Here is a shot (upside down) of the new guides with chains... Three have bolts that hold them on... There is also one that doesn't make things easy...

****I just remembered about the alternator mounting bracket... It extends around the front of the lower timing guide and down the side of the motor... That needs to be removed in order to get the front cover off... The front diff needs to be removed to get to the lower rear bolt holding that bracket on the block...*****





Here is a bad shot of the lower guide removed with the heads installed... You might be able to get the three guides out, but the last one needs to come straight out from the block... I think it will hit the head casting before it clears the pin...



If you pull the vanos units off, you can get access to the chain easily... You don't have to loosen the cam caps like I have done here for the exhaust side... That bolt on the lower area of the head is holding the top of the guide in place...



Here is the bolt that holds the guide on...



So, it would be best to remove the heads, but I personally don't think it is a requirement... The oil pans need to be loose to get the front cover in without damaging the gasket...

Let me know if you need more pictures of something specific... I'll post them up...

Cheers!!
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Last edited by williamx5; 10-09-2017 at 07:02 PM.
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