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  #11  
Old 11-18-2012, 12:49 AM
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generally speaking CEL is there for the emissions - i have had that light on my E39 for about 7-8 years, only reset it before the inspection, just to have the light come back couple hours later...
How do you know that the light is solid - did you fire up the engine? was the engine idling rough? sometimes some event would set off the light and the event is gone (may come back later)... it is ok to drive the car in that condition.. but if the light is flashing, that it could be something serious...

tell us more about your condition, and what is happening...
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:11 AM
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You should be able to get the codes read almost anywhere that works on cars. Obd2 is standardiZed. A lot of parts stores will read them for free as well. There are some BMW specific codes, but the generic ones should get you started fine.
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:17 AM
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some autostores actually will rent out for free some tools - they might rent out the OBD reader...

keep us posted - we have a huge collective knowledgebase to help you out...
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2012, 12:00 PM
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How cold is it where you are?

Do the 4.6is have the intermediate levers problem?
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  #15  
Old 11-18-2012, 01:43 PM
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Lots of bad information guys. The only reason the check engine light will actually flash is a misfire. Sure there are numbers causes of misfires, but the car only needs to see misfire. Once the misfires have stopped, usually the ses light will stay on with codes stored.

So the owners manual was right, misfires cause the ses light to flash, and misfires cause damage to the catalytic converter.

Either way sounds like its time to take it in for repairs. And hope you didn't drive too much to kill the cats...


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Old 11-18-2012, 02:02 PM
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If it's not blinking now, limp your way to an Orielly's, Checker's or Kragen (whatever the local chain name is near you) Ask to borrow their OBD II reader to use in the parking lot. They may ask to hold your ID so you don't steal it, but it should be free. Local chains here will even print out the results for you in the hope you'll buy replacement parts from them.

It could be something major but last time it happened to me in my M5 I remember it being rather minor (cheap to fix) like a bad MAF or CPS.... I've gone through so many sensors on these cars it's hard to remember...
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastereo View Post
Lots of bad information guys. The only reason the check engine light will actually flash is a misfire. Sure there are numbers causes of misfires, but the car only needs to see misfire. Once the misfires have stopped, usually the ses light will stay on with codes stored.

So the owners manual was right, misfires cause the ses light to flash, and misfires cause damage to the catalytic converter.

Either way sounds like its time to take it in for repairs. And hope you didn't drive too much to kill the cats...


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One shop showed me codes pertaining to misfires but never seen the engine light come off nor blink. Possible?
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattkins99 View Post
If it's not blinking now, limp your way to an Orielly's, Checker's or Kragen (whatever the local chain name is near you) Ask to borrow their OBD II reader to use in the parking lot. They may ask to hold your ID so you don't steal it, but it should be free. Local chains here will even print out the results for you in the hope you'll buy replacement parts from them.

It could be something major but last time it happened to me in my M5 I remember it being rather minor (cheap to fix) like a bad MAF or CPS.... I've gone through so many sensors on these cars it's hard to remember...

You know, thinking back, I think my car just went into limp mode (reduced power) not a blinking light..... so sorry, my advice might not be that helpful.
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  #19  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhyrk3 View Post
One shop showed me codes pertaining to misfires but never seen the engine light come off nor blink. Possible?
Yes, the misfires must have been few or minor to not trip the threshold programmed into the dme where it starts flashing the light, and none of us drive around staring at the ses, so it can be easy to miss when it's flashing


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  #20  
Old 11-18-2012, 04:44 PM
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There's quite a bit of misinformation in this thread; especially the comment about a failed oil pump. If you had a failed oil pump your oil lamp would come on RED (indicating zero oil pressure). Engine misfires are triggered most commonly by vacuum leaks. The fact that you're having a rough/stumbling idle and stalling indicates a pretty severe vacuum leak. Ask me how I know.

I had the same symptoms. When I pulled the codes I got a plethora of red-herrings - from bad o2 sensors to a bad maf to all cylinders misfiring, etc. etc. etc. I was ready to start changing all the parts I thought could be bad. By sheer accident, I discovered that it was my DISA valve. I would check you CCV system first and then the ICV. Those are the most likely to go, especially considering you only have 53,000 miles. Actually, I highly doubt it's the ICV in any event. A CCV or some related vacuum leak is most likely. If that doesn't do it, clean your maf and try again. Given your milage, I even doubt it's the MAF much less something more involved such as an o2 sensor or worse.

By the way, you're fine to drive this way. I drove over 2,000 miles with my car in this shape and nothing ever happened. Note, my car had 145,000 miles when this happened. At 53,000, you're most likely fine. Drive to Indy if you want but I'd check the vacuum stuff first as its going to be your most likely culprit(s). Yes, there is a possibility that you can ruin your cats if you drive it, but that would require thousands of miles. Like I said, my car had 145,000 and I drove it to beyond 147,000 in this shape and my cats are fine.

Good luck.

Last edited by Bayerische E53; 11-18-2012 at 04:49 PM.
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