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  #11  
Old 12-04-2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyline View Post
Even with that fair picture, it's easy to see that those bushings are shot.

I would get the Meyle HD bushings...or entire Meyle arms with the HD bushings already installed.
Sky, I saw yours in one of the posts. you wouldn't happen to be interested in renting your tool out now would you :-)
Just wanted to throw it out there..

OP: let us know which bushing you put it and how it rides afterwards
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nebilex View Post
Sky, I saw yours in one of the posts. you wouldn't happen to be interested in renting your tool out now would you :-)
Just wanted to throw it out there..

OP: let us know which bushing you put it and how it rides afterwards
I don't want to rent this out, as it's kind of a wear and tear item; I had to repair the threads on the threaded rod three times just to get the job done. And I think I'll need to find another piece of threaded rod before I use it again.

If I had it to do over, I think I would have just bought new arms with the bushings already installed. If you want to buy one of the tools, contact Moosa at: [email protected]
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2013, 08:57 AM
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anyone see a diy w/pics on this?
couldnt find it in tis.
one side is just a bolt and nut.
the other side going to the spindle is attached to ball joint?
how do you remove other side (towards spindle) without replacing ball joint?
thanks!
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ake53 View Post
anyone see a diy w/pics on this?
couldnt find it in tis.
one side is just a bolt and nut.
the other side going to the spindle is attached to ball joint?
how do you remove other side (towards spindle) without replacing ball joint?
thanks!
Alex are you doing the arms or just the bushings?

If you are doing just the bushings you will need a ball joint separator and an E14 socket for the bolts on the spindle.

If you are doing the complete arms I would spend the 50 bucks, get 2 fresh ball joints, get an E14 socket and a BFH and whack that fucker out of the spindle.
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:10 AM
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I've been driving the honda for now. And let my X5 dry up with a dehumidifer running inside. lot of rain in new england and noticed damp are in the trunk space where the tail light is...
now the X is in my garage waiting for the replacement, standing on jack stands.
i have bought all the parts needed, and meyle ball joints.
and i bought the whole arm. and e14 sockets
just the ball joints are good and no play besides the tension strut bushing.
would hate replacing them when they're still good. I thought it might be easier to leave the old ball joint on and use the ball joint tool to keep it still in there? Do you think it possible of doing it while keeping the old bjs on? my indy wanted to originally do it that way.
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  #16  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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I mean if you can pry at the arm carefully you might be able to keep the ball joint in the spindle without damaging it, the problem is the corrosion that is probably going to be your problem to get everything separated, I saw an old post where a guy actually bent the "ears" of the ball joint trying to pry it apart from the arm, the joint is really pressed in there good. if you look up tension arm replacement on a search a lot of guys get hung up trying to re-use the ball joint, if they weren't only like 55-60 bucks for both I would try to re-use as well, but it was easier for my indy to replace the ball joints with the arm and easier on me as I wanted to be sure as much suspension was fresh as could be.

hey whats the worst that can happen if you aren't drying the car much? you get hung up trying to reuse the joint and need to order 2 ball joints, I would say give it a try to re-use first, and if you run into snags, then whack the fuckers out and replace with new ones.

Oh and your water in the X is coming from either clogged sunroof drains or disconnected sunroof drains, I would take care of those ASAP or you will be getting a lot of moisture in the car, and the ensuing electrical problems that will result from standing water in a compartment with a lot of wiring.
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  #17  
Old 06-18-2013, 09:56 AM
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I checked the drains for the sunroof. they seem to open up and close.
what your way of checking that... the manual check of flooding sunroof rain catcher?

And already got the new bushings if i cant reuse those.
Do i need ball joint tool for the tension struts? couldnt find an answer on that.

also the arms i bought. one side is a bushing and the other is just a hole.? im guessing the ball joint goes into it and than the nut screws in on other side?

thanks
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:12 AM
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Yes, thats right. Its a pressure fit so you just thread the nut one the arm is on the ball joint and tighten er up.
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2013, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ake53 View Post
I checked the drains for the sunroof. they seem to open up and close.
what your way of checking that... the manual check of flooding sunroof rain catcher?

And already got the new bushings if i cant reuse those.
Do i need ball joint tool for the tension struts? couldnt find an answer on that.

also the arms i bought. one side is a bushing and the other is just a hole.? im guessing the ball joint goes into it and than the nut screws in on other side?

thanks
if you're getting water by the tailgate I would pour some club soda into the rear drain area by the rear corners of the sunroof (you can do it with sunroof open just don't pour into your car lol), and check to see if the water comes right out the rear, if it doesn't then there is blockage somewhere. Have you checked the "drain holes" that you can see when you open the hatch? should be clear with no obstructions
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