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#1
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Wheel bearing on its way out, need help making part list
Here is a realOEM image of the front for my car. What do you guys recommend I change while I am in there anyway? Do you guys replace the flange as well?
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2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
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#2
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Check out the Front wheel bearing R&R thread for a great resource, and the CV boot DIY in 30 mins thread, since most steps are the same (you need to remove axle and I am looking for the easiest way to do it while disconnecting as many parts as possible)
Slick, I am doing my front bearings soon but you may beat me to the punch. You need a harbor freight bearing "FWD Bearing Adapters" press kit to press the old bearing in and out (99 bucks but use a 20% off coupon to get it for 80), and a slide hammer kit to press the axle out of the hub then hammer the hub/drive flange out of the knuckle. (I've heard the HF version of this breaks easily) you can rent a slide hammer kit from Autozone/Advance auto parts for free however, which is what i'm doing. Then its up to you whether you want to reuse the hub or not. When you hammer the hub out the inner race will be still attached to the hub so you can cut it out with a dremel and use a hammer/chisel to get it off. The outer race will still be attached in the knuckle so thats where the bearing press kit comes in. In my case, I am replacing my hubs since they are 9 years old, I dont know how abused they are, and I want as many fresh parts as possible, they are 87 bucks on ECS (probably less with your Bloomfield contacts) I am replacing 5,6,7,8,9.....Note that OE bearings are made by F.A.G. brand, they are listed around 90 bucks from dealer, but sold in a F.A.G. box for 43 bucks if you source them from Pelican parts. Also, in my case I am replacing my outer CV boots since I am disconnecting the axle anyway, $12.50 a boot kit for GKN Loebro (which is OE brand) on Pelican parts. You shouldn't have to disconnect any of the control arms, just the two bolts/nuts on the strut and that gives the knuckle enough room to swivel. Use new nuts for the strut on replacement as they are torque to yield I believe. Other than that, disconnect your caliper, and take off your rotor, and when you get your axle nut and everything reconnected, put some antiseize on it to avoid rusting problems in the future. I'm doing my bearings since I have had a rumble since I got the car, 67k miles now, but former owner lived in Yonkers. The front end took a beating and I'm assuming yours has as well living in Brooklyn. Good luck and hit me up if you need anything, I've been researching this repair for the past 2 months getting ready so I have all my ducks in a row. I was going to buy the bearing press kit from HF, along with circlip pliers and sell both to fellow member "davintosh" who is in SD but doing his bearings as well after I complete mine, we are splitting the cost but he is going to keep the tools afterwards. Perhaps he can let you borrow them after he's through? He also has an ingenious tool to help draw the axle back in to the hub since that is the part people struggle with, basically its a grinded down axle nut welded on a socket which you can use to help catch the threads of the axle and draw it back in. I am putting it on the virgin run on my bearing job and will do a DIY with photos on the process when I am done (since I'm sure it will help other members) Indy wanted 1200 bucks for parts and labor, I priced out parts and tools and came to under 500.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#3
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Wow awesome reply. Thanks bro. Hook us up with the links for the bearings if you have them. I have a bearing press kit, just not sure it will fit. I might look into that HF kit. I'll get back to you soon with what Bloomfield prices this out to.
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2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
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#4
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Are you quite sure it's the bearing? Do you hear the noise ONLY when turning? Does it go away when you drive straight? If this is the case, it's likely not the bearing but your outer CV joint (did you inspect the boot)?
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#5
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Yup, still there, no grease. But you know what, maybe. I get the car washed at a detail shop once a month, and pretty much every week a quick wash. Maybe it was washed off. I will check to see if it has any rips or something. I did hear clicking about a week ago when turning. Didn't think much of it as there were twigs under the wheels. Hasn't happened again. So I will check.
__________________
2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
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#6
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If the noise is constant humming/vibing once you are above 35 or so and disappears while turning its a wheel bearing, if you hear clicking while turning however, that is CV joint related.
Like I promised, Pelican parts delivers OE parts at generic brand prices: Bearings (need two, do search on www.pelicanparts.com) : 31226783913 ($43 FAG brand 90 dollars for Genuine BMW) CV Boot Kit outer (need two kits, search on pelicanparts as well for this part number) : 31607507402 (GKN Loebro which is OE brand) Pelican Parts is a quirky site and not as easy to find things, unless you have part numbers. I know that ECS has the hubs, lock rings, and dust protectors (#5,7,8) cheaper than Pelican though because I keep both sites open and paste part numbers into both, and buy whichever has the same part cheaper. Honestly dude hit me with any questions, I read every front wheel bearing thread on Xoutpost probably 5x by now just so I dont run into any snags. If you buy the bearings i'd test the size first to see if your press kit works, you want a press kit with the round discs to press in and out like HF sells, sometimes you get generic bearing pullers which look like a big T, and they arent good for reinstallation.
__________________
2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#7
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Sound like a plan Ricky. I think first order of buisiness is to remove the wheel and see what is making that noise. If my axle is clicking, don't I generally need a new one? First car in a long time with CV joints, so not familiar with this.
__________________
2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
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#8
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if you're not spewing grease from a ripped CV boot I doubt your axle would be clicking, but I could be wrong
just put the truck in offroad height, get under and inspect the axle n other shit, thats what I do for a home diagnosis before I start removing wheels LOL. one time on my old VW i had a tiny couple pebbles stuck behind the dust shield of the rotor and it was making an awful squealing noise, a couple taps with a rubber mallet on the dust shield and a couple pebbles and a twig fell out, gone, no more noise. Thats what happens when the landscapers in your old condo blow leaves n twigs n shit on your ride.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#9
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That's why the X gets a garage. lol.
Yea I looked yesterday, boots look fine, axles seem fine. I don't get it. Clearly get a vibration when going slightly right. I don't feel it on the street though, only on the highway. I am going to my friends on Saturday to check balance on wheels and get it on a lift so that I can do some proper testing. Then to the alignment shop if all other parts check out. I really do hate the roads in and around NYC.
__________________
2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
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#10
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Quote:
This is why my only request when my wife and I were house shopping was a 2 car garage. Did 3.5 years in condo parking when I was living the bachelor life and I was finished. My realtor looked at me and was like "really? thats a deal breaker for you if the house is perfect but doesn't have a 2 car garage?" I said you're damn right it is, make it happen. Needless to say, my X, my wife's Rav, and my Triumph all sleep very comfortably in our oversized 2 car garage now. Let me know how it goes at your buddies shop man and who knows, maybe its not a wheel bearing after all? maybe an NYC pothole knocked a wheel weight out of place.
__________________
2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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