New Member & Auto Level inact

[Hisenberg]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

so, the message is there all the times? or, it comes and goes? before throwing money into it, start from simple - did you check the fuses? when i say check the fuse, it is not just visually, check it electrically... then move to more complex...

The message is displayed continuously. I Will start with fuses as soon as I track them down.

[upallnight]

If you look at the picture the fuse is number 79 or 87. Below the fuse starting at the left is fuse no. 72 to 87 on the right. This is located behind the panel at the rear of the truck.

[Hisenberg]

Originally Posted by upallnight

If you at the picture the fuse is number 79 or 87. Below the fuse starting at the left is fuse no. 72 to 87 on the right. This is located behind the panel at the rear of the truck.

Upallnight, Excellent timing. I just came upstairs after inspecting the fuses and they look just fine. I guess next on the line are the sensors.

[TiAgX5]

The GOOD INDY SHOPS NATIONWIDE thread is being updated by me. If you want to see details on the shops listed in the inital post you will need to thread search the shop name, I'm only providing "brass tack" data in the inital post to keep it manageable.

If you are going to DIY the air-ride system I STRONGLY suggest you invest in a Bentley manual, there is a troubleshooting section for every system in your X. If you don't own a good multi-meter it's time to step up and drop the $s.

The Bentley will more then pay for itself on the 1st repair! SOOOOOOOO may DIYs posted here do not include torque specs, ONE broken/stripped incident will exceed the Bentley cost, only a fool will attempt repairs without all the data available. Proceed accordingly.

[electricalserv x5]

I sometimes I just reset the compressor by pulling the fuse,I have a 03 4.6is which has only rear air bags [thank god] I hear that 04,forward have front and rear and a switch and are problematic........................good luck.

[Hisenberg]

Thank dooood

[electricalserv x5]

what year is your X5 and how many miles?

[Skyline]

To check the sensors, you will need a shop that has a factory level scan tool like a GT1 or Autologic, and can scan the system for faults.

For example, on the Autologic, a very helpful screen you want to look at is called:

Deviation, Ridel Level, From Specified Value

So first you scan for codes to find out where to start your diagnosis. Let's say the Autologic tells you to check the RF ride height level sensor. You can then swap the two front sensors to see if it's a bad sensor or if it's a wiring/module issue. If the code stays on the same wheel's sensor, immediately suspect the module. If the problem moves with the sensor, you have a bad sensor. To confirm that it's a bad module and not the wiring, (usually it IS the module or sensor), you can swap the signal wires of those sensors, and again scan the car with the Autologic. The above mentioned screen will show you where the problem is.

My first question to a new Indy shop you are considering would be: Do you have an Autologic or GT1? There are a lot of versions of the GT1 floating around, some very inexpensive, and I can't speak for the competency of all those versions. But the Autologic is a very serious investment for a shop, and makes most BMW electronic troubleshooting very straightforward; quite an awesome scan tool. And NO $9,000 Snap-on, (or MAC or Matco or OTC) scan tool can do ANY of this stuff. So if a shop you are considering tells you they use a Snap-on Verus, Modis, Ethos, Vantage or Solus, (as many shops try to do,)...your answer should be: "Not on MY BMW."

[Hisenberg]

Originally Posted by Skyline

To check the sensors, you will need a shop that has a factory level scan tool like a GT1 or Autologic, and can scan the system for faults.

For example, on the Autologic, a very helpful screen you want to look at is called:

Deviation, Ridel Level, From Specified Value

So first you scan for codes to find out where to start your diagnosis. Let's say the Autologic tells you to check the RF ride height level sensor. You can then swap the two front sensors to see if it's a bad sensor or if it's a wiring/module issue. If the code stays on the same wheel's sensor, immediately suspect the module. If the problem moves with the sensor, you have a bad sensor. To confirm that it's a bad module and not the wiring, (usually it IS the module or sensor), you can swap the signal wires of those sensors, and again scan the car with the Autologic. The above mentioned screen will show you where the problem is.

My first question to a new Indy shop you are considering would be: Do you have an Autologic or GT1? There are a lot of versions of the GT1 floating around, some very inexpensive, and I can't speak for the competency of all those versions. But the Autologic is a very serious investment for a shop, and makes most BMW electronic troubleshooting very straightforward; quite an awesome scan tool. And NO $9,000 Snap-on, (or MAC or Matco or OTC) scan tool can do ANY of this stuff. So if a shop you are considering tells you they use a Snap-on Verus, Modis, Ethos, Vantage or Solus, (as many shops try to do,)...your answer should be: "Not on MY BMW."

We need a "like" button.

[oldskoolaudi]

I had what sounds like the exact problems you have. Had a bmw tech scan it and replaced one ride height sensor. It's all good now.