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  #241  
Old 09-29-2013, 10:11 PM
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What I meant was, if you get the car running and spray break cleaner on areas there can be leaks, it will cause the car to cut out. I'm thinking about putting the hoses back on, start the car, and spray break cleaner where there may be leaks.
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  #242  
Old 09-29-2013, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by craigatkinson View Post
What I meant was, if you get the car running and spray break cleaner on areas there can be leaks, it will cause the car to cut out. I'm thinking about putting the hoses back on, start the car, and spray break cleaner where there may be leaks.
I don't think brake clean will do it - some old school methods don't work on these intakes/valvetronics. Carb clean - starting fluid maybe. You can pull the CCV caps off the diaphragms and start the engine. If they close and stay closed for a few minutes - the hoses & o-rings are probably good. Have your dad rest his hands just above the diaphragms in the event you have excessive blowby.
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  #243  
Old 09-29-2013, 11:33 PM
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How do I know that they've closed?
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  #244  
Old 09-29-2013, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by craigatkinson View Post
How do I know that they've closed?
Pull the caps - push down on center of the diaphrams about 1/2 inch - that's closed
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  #245  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:52 AM
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It closed. I kind of expected that though. If oil is being pulled into the intake, then I would think that too much vacuum is the problem. Right?
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  #246  
Old 09-30-2013, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by craigatkinson View Post
It closed. I kind of expected that though. If oil is being pulled into the intake, then I would think that too much vacuum is the problem. Right?
Not necessarily, the vacuum closes the valves and it has to be at 100 percent volume. If you have a break in the system (bad diaphragm or hose), you can have enough vacuum to pull oil vapor but not enough to close the valves. Blow by is also helping to push the vapor as well. We are also in discussions on another forum about crankcase air leaks.

Last edited by A B Able Truck; 09-30-2013 at 09:12 AM. Reason: info
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  #247  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:28 AM
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I hooked up my OBD sensor to my car to check the vacuum pressure. When I am idling, the vacuum pressure gets down to -28 in/Hg. Is that the proper vacuum to have in the N62 4.8is?
My CCV's appear to be working properly, so why do I have oil in my intake?
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  #248  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by craigatkinson View Post
I hooked up my OBD sensor to my car to check the vacuum pressure. When I am idling, the vacuum pressure gets down to -28 in/Hg. Is that the proper vacuum to have in the N62 4.8is?
My CCV's appear to be working properly, so why do I have oil in my intake?
-28 in/Hg is great
There is a great debate on this issue with differing opinions. This is a link to one (I took you to the last page - but it's all good if you're interested).

545i Blue smoke after idle, Valve seals? - Page 11 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Last edited by A B Able Truck; 09-30-2013 at 11:54 AM. Reason: info
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  #249  
Old 10-02-2013, 12:54 AM
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I've been trying many of the suggestions in this forum and it appears that I may have fixed the problem. My car is not smoking at all anymore.
I went and took off the vacuum tubes and dumped out any oil in them, there wasn't much. I changed the oil and placed a heavier oil, 10-40 synthetic mobile one, with some stop leak along with it. I also looked at my K&N air filter and it was plugged tighter than a tick, so I figured I better clean that. I also filled it up with oil just a little over max. That was accidental, but I don't know, if there is a vacuum issue, maybe that could make a difference as well. I did so many things, I do not know which things may have helped, but I've been driving it for several days without seeing any smoking, even in stop and go traffic where I used to see it bad. So if I see any more smoke I'll try to let you all know.
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  #250  
Old 10-02-2013, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by A B Able Truck View Post
The corrugated hose traps oil - stand on end with paper towel and let sit for a while - the towel will become an oil rag and this is only the oil left with no vacuum.
This is a very sensible observation. If we can change the corrugated hoses with smooth hoses that won't collapse if vacuum is induced, the oil will not stay trapped in there. Maybe in very cold environment, the hoses don't warm enough, and there is more and more oil trapped in there (getting thick with cold), until it discharges at once?
You made the observation that the transparent hoses do collapse slightly. Maybe some PVC hoses attached to the OEM nipples?
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