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  #71  
Old 03-19-2014, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingbmwm3 View Post
I suspect that most of what's felt when changing to a different bar is because you're getting rid of the slop in the old worn out bushings. I remember watching Motor Trend's comparison test of the 4.6is/ML55/M5/E55 and in the slalom the 4.6 was lifting the inside tires. If the sway bars weren't stiff enough, it couldn't do that without rolling over.
I'd just put the poly bushings on.
fixed it for ya!
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  #72  
Old 03-19-2014, 02:56 PM
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Roll-overs are caused by sudden changes in grip while sliding sideways, which is exacerbated by the high center of gravity in an SUV or truck.
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  #73  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racingbmwm3 View Post
wait, why are we trying to get //M3 handling in an X5?
Yes, a larger ARB does make for flat turn-ins.
The problem with a larger roll bar is you are making your car's suspension more and more similar to a live axle style where each side is no longer acting independently. If better handling is the goal, the springs/struts should be changed first, THEN the roll bar.
This keeps the independent characteristics of suspension intact.
The ideal setup is the dynamic roll-bars BMW introduced in the E65 and which the E70 received. Insanely awesome comfortable smooth ride and perfectly flat cornering.
Plus, putting the system through the self-test makes it look like you're at a lowrider hydraulics demonstration
I didn't say anything about trying to make a X5 handle like an M3. My goal was to improve the handling of my 4.6. I wanted my X to handle better than stock and it does. I did it because I wanted to and I could.

My posts are not intended to convey the science, art or order to improve the X5 suspension. I am contributing what I did and the results.

The reason I started with the sway bars is that if I had gotten what I wanted from the sway bars I would have stopped there.

Soon after I added the H&R lowering kit and spacers. I also tried shock and strut variations but ultimately returned to stock as the best combination of ride and performance. The heavy duty shocks and struts I tried either turned it into to a hay wagon or made it very skittish.

As tires wore out I would do some research to see if there was anything out there that would last longer and deliver more than what I had. I was not interested in anything much softer, I don't track it, it is my daily driver and I was already paying too much and buying tires too often.

I didn't consider coilovers as I considered them too costly and there was no information to help with settings so I would be flying blind. More of an M3 option.

There is no perfectly flat cornering if there is a suspension. The E70 suspension may be ideal to you but that does not mean it is the best the E70 can be or that it is ideal for me or others. I assure you that if I had an E70 I would find a way to improve upon the stock offering. I don't know if the E70 active sway bar system will fit or work properly on an E53 but I would be trying anything else before I invested in a $2,000 sway bar system.

Since I was not naive enough to expect M3 performance, my approach was to invest in those improvements that delivered the most for the expense and time to install. Nor was I naive enough to think the magnitude of the changes I made could destroy the basic suspension design or intention.
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  #74  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:35 PM
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Thank you, I understand now!
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  #75  
Old 03-20-2014, 03:44 PM
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So no objections with putting in the powerflex bushings then?

The Meyle HD bushing still aren't solid rubber (there's an air gap in several places from the pics I've seen) or I'd go with them.

Thanks!
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  #76  
Old 03-20-2014, 04:12 PM
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If my Meyle HD ever go (I've had them about 10k now), I will prob put Powerflex in there.

I've also thought about the rear subframe bushings, in order to get it truly solid you'd have to fill the Meyle bushings
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  #77  
Old 01-30-2015, 12:52 PM
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Just back from the dealer where, coincident to computer diagnosis, the tech noted my thrust arm bushings will soon need replacement. I'll eyeball them myself tomorrow, but, given I'm over 100k miles, I'm leaning toward replacing the thrust arms/ball joints/bushings with Meyle HDs, which I understand you can get from EAC Europarts mounted in Lemforder thrust arms [superior, I understand, to the Meyles]. I'm thinking I'll have the shop that would do the alignment do the install, unless you guys convince me that removing and replacing the entire unit [not pressing in bushings, etc]. is a DIY shade-tree task? Any current strong feelings on doing Powerflex instead of the Meyle HD bushings?
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  #78  
Old 01-30-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggodeaux View Post
Just back from the dealer where, coincident to computer diagnosis, the tech noted my thrust arm bushings will soon need replacement. I'll eyeball them myself tomorrow, but, given I'm over 100k miles, I'm leaning toward replacing the thrust arms/ball joints/bushings with Meyle HDs, which I understand you can get from EAC Europarts mounted in Lemforder thrust arms [superior, I understand, to the Meyles]. I'm thinking I'll have the shop that would do the alignment do the install, unless you guys convince me that removing and replacing the entire unit [not pressing in bushings, etc]. is a DIY shade-tree task? Any current strong feelings on doing Powerflex instead of the Meyle HD bushings?
I like the firmer feel of the Powerflex CABs.

Powerflex CABs are an easy DIY, can even be done ON the X......
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  #79  
Old 01-30-2015, 07:28 PM
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Riggo if you buy the Meyle HD arms with the pre installed bushings you will have no issues. Had mine for 2 years and no complaints
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  #80  
Old 01-31-2015, 01:27 AM
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I had a tough time pressing in the Powerflex bushings and I had the arm off the X and was using a real press. Dang thing wanted to go everywhere but into the arm...

Bimmerworld sells the arms and they'll press power flex bushings in for your (for a small fee).
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