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  #101  
Old 06-02-2016, 12:39 PM
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[QUOTE=TiAgX5;1079509]I agree, many good OE and Genuine parts are produced in China, and the parent companies have oversite of materials/processes/tolerances.

The crap parts are almost always the ones produced WITHOUT oversite, like the bushings in the prior post.[/QUOTE]

I ordered a set of those bushings and when I get them I will tell you how easily or hard it was to put them on a genuine BMW thrust arm.
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  #102  
Old 06-02-2016, 12:52 PM
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[QUOTE=upallnight;1079517]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
I agree, many good OE and Genuine parts are produced in China, and the parent companies have oversite of materials/processes/tolerances.

The crap parts are almost always the ones produced WITHOUT oversite, like the bushings in the prior post.[/QUOTE]

I ordered a set of those bushings and when I get them I will tell you how easily or hard it was to put them on a genuine BMW thrust arm.
I wish you the best of luck with them.

One thing I noticed in the pics on e-bay, these come with a sleeve of rather clear bushing lube (non-copper base). The best bushing lube is a copper base syn lube, unfortunately that good lube attacks/breaks down cheap poly/plastics. At install, you are stuck using clear lube and the possibility of squeaks over time (not knowing if the bushings are copper lube compatible).

Powerflex Copper Grease
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  #103  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
I ordered a set of those bushings and when I get them I will tell you how easily or hard it was to put them on a genuine BMW thrust arm.
I'm interested in your results then!

I'm not replacing my ball joints as they have no play and the boots aren't cracked. I'm also not replacing my tension rod (upper front control arm) as that checked out fine. The thrust arm bushing (lower front control arm) showed excessive play when I took a pry bar to it.

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Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
Why drill them?

This is all you need....
Does that Harbor Freight puller include the necessary bits to push put the stock bushings, or will I need to take a trip to Home Depot to find the correct washers/pipe adapters to push it out?

Not worried about squeaks. I'll grease them with some Mobil1 grease I've used for plenty of bushings. Plus, a squeak here or there is nothing to me.
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  #104  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:26 PM
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I actually used a steel block to push the old bushing flush, then used a steel pipe coupler to push thru. (got that at Home Depot).

The 5 ton HF tool was right at it's limit (could hardly pump it), better bet would be the HD HF tool.
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Last edited by TiAgX5; 06-02-2016 at 02:35 PM.
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  #105  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiubhartach View Post
The Harbor Freight ball joint tools don't work. I tried them and a rental from a parts store. They were too small. 3 days and no luck. Finally bought a knockoff of the BMW tool. Off in 5 minutes.

This is the one I used. Notice the threaded piece in the center, that's what is needed to open wider.

Ball Joint separator press tool BMW Mercedes Audi Mini
This tool shows 24, 27 and 31mm openings. The Harbor Freight cheapie's opening ("throat?") is only 3/4" . Stiub, do you or another viewer know what size is needed? I'll check what my local parts stores loaner's measure, but it would be good to know. I'd rather not pop the wheel off and try to measure if someone knows ......
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  #106  
Old 06-02-2016, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
I would just get Lemforder or Meyle HD arms personally - BMW also has "protection package" bushings which are an updated design and reinforced
Yep I installed the Package Protection Bushings which are much more durable than the original units. I will see how the miles will go with these on the X5
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  #107  
Old 06-02-2016, 03:45 PM
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I also have poly bushings waiting to go in my control arms. Replacing the pressed bushings with poly ones is usually a piece of cake. Pressing in new pressure fitted bushings can blow even with a press.
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  #108  
Old 06-02-2016, 03:58 PM
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I was lucky they pressed out without any issues (I just hit them with PB Blaster about 4 times a week for a month prior to removal).

Those with corrosion issues should hacksaw the metal sleeve before pressing out.
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  #109  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
I actually used a steel block to push the old bushing flush, then used a steel pipe coupler to push thru. (got that at Home Depot).

The 5 ton HF tool was right at it's limit (could hardly pump it), better bet would be the HD HF tool.
Sounds like the "easy" button is to just buy 2 Lemforder arms w/ bushings @$115 each.

The 5-ton HF puller costs $80, plus either $50 eBay bushings are $115 Powerflex bushings. That ends up being a wash if you go with PF bushings, or end up upping to the 10-ton puller.
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  #110  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:33 PM
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Anyone looking at Powerflex bushings needs to get the full package deal ECS Tuning runs about once a year. It's like getting the CA & sway bushings free. The full package contains every bushing Powerflex makes for the E53. Yet to install the subframe parts.
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