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  #11  
Old 05-13-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
You can try charging the battery for a while to see if that changes anything (and get the 4x4 light to go off). But if it consistently reads around 11.2 volts and if it is the original battery...then you may find yourself stranded sometime in the near future if the battery dips so low that it can't start the vehicle (but may have enough juice to light the interior etc.)...or you may begin to see a few more odd electrical gremlins.

See if you can find a vendor that can load test the battery...which would give you another indication if its time to replace. If it needs to be replaced...you have the option of looking for 49/H8 or 95/H9 class size batteries. The prices can range from just around $100 to well up to $300. But again, the battery class size you're looking for is the 49/H8 and/or 95/H9...with the latter usually costing the most $$$. And don't forget to hook up any replacement battery to the VENT tube in the battery compartment since it's enclosed.
I'll try the charge tonight and possible load test. I'm sure my wife is going to be very comforted knowing she might get stranded somewhere...

Where's a decent place to buy a battery? I'd assume Wal-Mart or something?

One thing I have learned in the past is don't trade the battery in for the $10 core charge. Recycle places will give you $15-20 for car batteries
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2013, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Buguyed View Post
Do you think the voltage while driving will be much different them when just sitting at idle? What would I be looking for here?
On mine it was, i sometimes got spikes of 17 volts that put me in trans fail safe mode and other random electrical problems. Replaced the alternator and problems solved.
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2013, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pezho405 View Post
On mine it was, i sometimes got spikes of 17 volts that put me in trans fail safe mode and other random electrical problems. Replaced the alternator and problems solved.
Ok, i'll check that tonight as well. I haven't seen the trans fail safe mode yet.

The only other mystery problem happened yesterday.
We were leaving breakfast for mothers day. I walked to the car and hit unlock. The alarm started going off. I couldn't get it to stop, hitting all the buttons on the remote.
Finally, I got in the car and started it. Alarm still going off. Turned it off and got out, hit unlock again and it shut off. Embarrassing

Anyone think this could be related?
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Buguyed View Post
Ok, i'll check that tonight as well. I haven't seen the trans fail safe mode yet.

The only other mystery problem happened yesterday.
We were leaving breakfast for mothers day. I walked to the car and hit unlock. The alarm started going off. I couldn't get it to stop, hitting all the buttons on the remote.
Finally, I got in the car and started it. Alarm still going off. Turned it off and got out, hit unlock again and it shut off. Embarrassing

Anyone think this could be related?
This still sounds like a dying battery issue. When the voltage drops, again real weird electrical gremlins occur. Its like when a boxer gets hit with an uppercut and the electrical synapses in the brain don't connect...TKO...lights out...boxer sees stars, then head-dives into the canvas. When you're battery's voltage drops...similar things occur and it can't keep up with everything it's supposed to do....thus it starts and stops or basically goes into a type of rolling brown-out.

BTW, the alarm siren has it's own internal battery that is kept charge by the car's battery. If the vehicle's battery is low, then it can't keep the alarm siren's battery charged. The drop in current when the remote buttons are pressed in this condition...can be seen by the alarm siren as someone disconnecting power to the car and trying to steal it...so it sounds off.

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  #15  
Old 05-13-2013, 08:55 PM
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Ok, just went for a drive with the OBC voltage meter running. Before start-up, I was at 11.2-11.4. Then, after it started and drove off it sat between 13.2-13.6 consistently.

Going to get a new battery this weekend... Updates to follow!
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  #16  
Old 05-18-2013, 04:44 PM
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Isn't that light caused by a bad STEERING ANGLE SENSOR?
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2013, 05:04 PM
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UPDATE:

Installed brand new battery today.. Light is still on!

OBC Volt meter reads 11.7 with engine off and steady 13.4 at an idle with new battery in.
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
...
A battery at 11.89 volts is at 0% state of charge and if still capable of starting the car...it's running on reserve capacity.




Your NEW battery is only at 11.7 volts? What's it's mfg date? Is it fresh or was it sitting on the shelf for a long time? Did the vendor charge the battery before installing it (especially if it has been sitting on the shelf for a while)?

What battery class size did you get? Is it a 49, H8, 95, or H9 class size (and hopefully it's vented)?
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Last edited by Qsilver7; 05-19-2013 at 06:45 AM.
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  #19  
Old 05-19-2013, 09:55 AM
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Your NEW battery is only at 11.7 volts? Yes
What's it's mfg date? Not sure i cant find that
Is it fresh or was it sitting on the shelf for a long time? It was on a shelf when I got it. Can't say for how long.
Did the vendor charge the battery before installing it (especially if it has been sitting on the shelf for a while)? No, I grabbed it and left.

What battery class size did you get? Is it a 49, H8, 95, or H9 class size (and hopefully it's vented)? H8 and yes it's vented.
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  #20  
Old 05-19-2013, 12:17 PM
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Before ruling out low battery voltage (since your new battery is also below 0% state of charge)...if you have a battery charger...hook it up to the jump start terminals in the engine bay. Give your new battery a good long recharge like 2 amps for approx 20 hours, or 10 amps at approx 8 hours.

Also make sure that all the battery cells are sufficiently filled with electrolyte (distiller water).
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