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2004 X5 hood cable removal & installation
Decision was made to replace the cable, in order to avoid one of those surprises. Out of 3 cables, I decided I need only the 2 cables that activate the 2 latches and the intermediate cable. These: To reach the cables, unfortunately, you will need to remove the front bumper, then the driver side headlight. For the front bumper I used this DIY. For the headlight, DIY's not necessary - it's a straight forward process: Unplug the light harness, remove the top 2 screws, remove the bottom 2 screws and slide out. Done. The reason you want the headlight out, is to allow for the cable to slide out under the front cross member. The reason you want the bumper out, is to be able to reach the latches - you will need to remove the air duct left & right (p/n 51717124217 & 51717123350) and the air duct ornamental grille left & right (p/n 51717123351 & 51717123352). Next, you need a torx bit T30 to remove the 3 screws that hold the 2 latches: To reach the latches, you need to pull out the middle pin of the plastic rivet that holds each air duct (left & right) mentioned above: Then, pull on the 3 tabs that hold the ornament grille to the above airduct: Now, the airducts can be folded away, and you can access the latches. This is why you need to remove the bumper. The front cable ties the 2 latches, and is also held in place by clip under the cross member. Slide it out. Here is the passenger side latch: Pull the cable sheath out the guide of the latch, then the cable is exposed, and you can slide the cable out of the latch: The driver side latch is also tied to the intermediate cable. This one has the connecting element as well. To get the latch out, you will first need to open the connecting element, by pressing and pushing with a screwdriver on the 2 tabs: Then just pull the whole unit with cables still attached, from the body. It's held in place by 2 plastic tabs. They won't break, and even if they would, if you change the intermediate cable, you will have a new unit anyways. Once the connecting element is out, you need to find a small screwdriver, or a fine pick and pull the round lead of the cable that goes towards the firewall. In this picture, it's the one to the right: Once the lead cable is off (the one that goes towards the firewall), you can slide the cable with the connecting element through the cross member and out. This is why you need the headlight out. The 2 latches are identical. Because the driver side latch had the guide damaged, I switched the 2 latches, to avoid buying a new unit. The guide is housing the sheath of the cable. Both latches side-by-side: Damaged guide on the driver side latch: Installation is the reverse. It's quite easy in my opinion. The hardest part was to find the 2 tabs on each side of the bumper. Opening the hood is very easy now, a minimal effort is needed to pull the lever now. Yes, I had the mandatory beer afterwards.
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Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
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#2
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thanks for the guide. I might need this steps soon
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#3
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Great write-up! This will undoubtedly come in handy for many here.
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2004 X5 3.0i
Mod list: Currently Longer than the maximum allowed characters that can be typed here... |
#4
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About to do this job in a couple hours! Thanks for the write up.. Now to find the info to remove an early bumper!
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#5
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Doru, wonderful write up with pics, it should be stickied in the "Tips & Tricks" for easy access. I will be inspecting my cables for rust/wear and using this when needed!
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
#6
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Just did this one. Wish I'd seen this guide, would have made things easier. Third section was rusted out. The new latches didn't work, so I put the old latches on, and voila, the hood works again.
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Motivation can change what you do, but inspiration can change who you are. --------------------------------------------------------- 2003 BMW X5 3.0i, Black Sapphire, 287,423 km and kicking! www.sam-medina.com My online graphic novel: |
#7
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Did this yesterday in a couple hours including replacing the first cable from the cabin, went pretty well, hardest part was removing and replacing the plastic shields next to and in front of the aux fan. Hood latches work beautifully now.
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#8
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I found out that to remove those two shields the front bumper cover as well as the metal bumper had to come out when I replace the aux fan. Mine is a prefaced X.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#9
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Hi guys,
Sorry to bump an old thread but this seems to be the only guide on xoutpost. Id like to add that the latches and cables can be replaced without requiring removal of the front bumper or headlights. This is at least the case on my N62. My plastic rivets absolutely refused to move & i was unable to remove them without severely bending or damaging them. All you need to do is pull/bend the plastic piece a little to the side out of its grove, & there is enough room slide in/out the latches from the side. No damage is done, & its a whole lot easier then removing the front bumper. Be sure to tap the latches before attempting to install them in the car. I lost a bolt that way, & ended up purchasing another because i absolutely could not find it. Hope that helps. |
#10
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Quote:
Thanks BigBody, that is great info to have!! Though I hope I never have to find out Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
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