FIXED!!!!!-Smog failed due to EML light, did a drive cycle, now car is messing up!

[diddy0071]

I disconnected it and it idled fine. Took for a drive with the maf unplugged and it ran the same, terribly.

[diddy0071]

I'm about 75% sure it is an MAF malfunction. I went to O'Reilly's and purchased an MAF cleaner. I sprayed the MAF sensor and cleaned it good. I ended up taking the throttle control out and it was FILTHY. I sprayed both Carb Cleaner and MAF cleaner and got rid of all of the gunk it had. I placed the throttle control back and turned it on (without the MAF). It Ran decently on Idle, when I revved the engine, it sounded like it was really struggling to get any air (Mind you, both the air filter and MAF are not in place, simply plugged in like the picture I had posted earlier). I plugged the MAF sensor back in, and it died. Turned it back on, revved it with the MAF sensor plugged and it was noticably struggling. I took turns with my brother's help plugging it and uplugging it for the difference. Everytime the MAF was plugged in, it was struggling hard/killed the engine. Without it, while it still struggled, it handled better. Still drives horribly without the MAF and with it, so at this point, I think the MAF is malfunctioning and will look for one online (Kragen quoted me 259, and it has to be shipped). I guess I'll catch the bus to work tomorrow (Not a clue which one or how to make it to my destination at work, It is 4 miles away, across the countyside/city, so it's not as bad as I had stated earlier on my commute problems, still a struggle). Unless anyone else has any other suggestions, I hope this will fix my problem. If not, I'm going to break down and cry.

[TerminatorX5]

i think i saw some aftermarket MAFs for about $30-50... but i would not trust an aftermarket ones... saw a Siemens/VDO for about $180 brand new on fleabay...

go to furiousmethod . com, plug in this part #13627567451, enable the pop-ups from that site and click search... do not worry when you start getting whole bunch of windows popping up, those are individual websites that carry that particular part... go though those sites, find the best deal for yourself and order the part...

if you want to take a chance with an aftermarket item, try the one for $30 but i would not recommend it.. maybe, just to hold the fort over until the real thing arrives, and then send the junk back...

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

i think i saw some aftermarket MAFs for about $30-50... but i would not trust an aftermarket ones... saw a Siemens/VDO for about $180 brand new on fleabay...

go to furiousmethod . com, plug in this part #13627567451, enable the pop-ups from that site and click search... do not worry when you start getting whole bunch of windows popping up, those are individual websites that carry that particular part... go though those sites, find the best deal for yourself and order the part...

if you want to take a chance with an aftermarket item, try the one for $30 but i would not recommend it.. maybe, just to hold the fort over until the real thing arrives, and then send the junk back...

I purchased an aftermarket one from A1Auto for 50 bucks. I want to make sure it is the MAF before I buy a quality part. I ended up buying thr rubber boot for the intake as a precaution. Might as well replace both. If it turns out it is the MAF, I will order OEM. By the way what is so bad about aftermarket. This company claims to offer 1 yr warranty on the part. What can go wrong with an aftermarket?

[TerminatorX5]

Originally Posted by diddy0071

I purchased an aftermarket one from A1Auto for 50 bucks. I want to make sure it is the MAF before I buy a quality part. I ended up buying thr rubber boot for the intake as a precaution. Might as well replace both. If it turns out it is the MAF, I will order OEM. By the way what is so bad about aftermarket. This company claims to offer 1 yr warranty on the part. What can go wrong with an aftermarket?

there are different aftermarket products - some are better than the others... unfortunately, with some delicate electronic components, aftermarket parts are not as good, as was proven by multiple forum members... there is a good reason for that, outside of scope of this thread...

there is a difference between the naming:

OE - original part labeled by BMW, could be made by various manufacturers;

OEM - aftermarket parts made by the same manufacturers that make OE, but marketed either directly by the manufacturer, or a reseller, say Bosch, VDO, Siemens

aftermarket - made by who-knows-who from who-knows-what to look like the real deal... Rolex for $20...

[diddy0071]

Well if it turns out that this aftermarket makes a difference I will definitely purchase a good oem part. Lets hope this is a fix for at least a week while I purchase another. If it doesn't hekp, back to the drawing board.

[diddy0071]

So me being my usual paranoid self, have to ask; What if the MAF sensor and Intake Rubber Boot are replaced and the car still acts up? What else could it be?

Any suggestions please friends??

[TerminatorX5]

rough engine idle and loss of power -

vacuum leak
extra air in the system (unaccounted air)
faulty spark plug(s)
faulty coil(s)
loss of cylinder compression
misaligned crakshaft sensor
damaged crankshaft
dry engine - no oil

the list can go on and on... lets get one thing at a time...

[diddy0071]

My engine was low, very low on oil. I hope that isn't the reason it ran like crap. I added in approximately 4 quarts of oil to get the oil stick at the right level of oil. Could this have caused it? Also, I did notice like a gritty brown substance stuck to the dipstick which almost had it stuck to the engine. I have been constantly adding oil, about a quart-to 2 quarts a month. I didn't turn the engine on until I had added the oil though, and also, it idles and when I step on the gas when it is in park, the engine revs ok.Now I'm worried!

[TerminatorX5]

you will need to do some engine flushing.. get yourself Liqu MOLY engine flush, get yourself the synthetic oil, you also might want to consider the Auto-RX, it is a chemical designed to wash the insides of the engine...

before doing any of those, do a search on the forum, see if those are applicable to you r case...

I am running Auto-RX in my 4.8iS right now, in the cleaning cycle... next, will change oil in about a 1000-1500 miles (total of about 4000 since last oil change), will put some MOLY in, flush it again... there is a certain procedure to be followed...

but first, lets get your car running normal first...