Front Outer CV Boot Repair

[mferek]

So I decided to try and tackle my torn front right outer CV boot today. I know it's been torn for at least a couple months and probably a least 1000 miles, so I decided not to chance driving it anymore and fix it. It's also coated everything in grease, which has in turn mixed with lots of brake dust, so everything in there is completely black.
Here's the black inside of the wheel:


torn outer CV boot:


I figured that I would get a CV boot repair kit rather than a whole new drive axle, and while I was in there, I would inspect the CV joint and decide if it needed to be replaced or if I could get away with just replacing the boot. This is the DIY I've been following: http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html. It took me most of the day, partially due to having to go pick up some new tools, but I've successfully removed the swivel bearing, associated control arms, and drive axle.

Everything removed from the swivel bearing.


Unfortunately, that's as far as I got. I ripped the boot on my tie rod when I was disconnecting it from the swivel bearing and I broke the hub dust shield with my bearing puller. I don't know how you would ever NOT rip the tie rod boot, unless there's a better tool to use than one of those pickle forks. The hub dust shield broke because I had a claw type puller rather than one that screws into the lug holes (just like in the DIY). I guess that's a good example of where having the exact right tool is the only way to go.

Ripped tie rod boot:


I've decided that I need a whole new drive axle, for a couple of reasons. When I finally got the drive axle free, I found that the inner boot was leaking as well. It wasn't ripped, but the smaller seal on the drive axle had grease coming out of it, and it was no longer seated in its little groove. Also, I had a really tough time getting the outer CV joint off (read, I couldn't get it off), so I haven't figured out what to do with that yet. Lastly, because I'm not sure how long the boot has been torn, it seems like a safer bet to just get a new axle. They're not all that much more expensive, and I really would rather not have to take all this crap out again in the near future.

Inner boot leaking:


I'm not sure what color CV joint grease is supposed to be, and if it's different for inner and outer joints, but my inner joint grease seems rather odd (pic below). Does anyone know if that's what it normally looks like?

Inside of inner drive axle connection:


Inside of inner boot:


Here's where I am now:


I think tomorrow I'll be trying to get the rest of the drive axle off so I can just pop the new one in when I get it. Also going to get everything cleaned up so reinstallation is cleaner and easier. have new sway bar links to put in as well.
Also going to get ready to put some new transmission fluid in and hopefully get rid of my Transmission Failsafe Program error.

Lastly, how do I put pictures in the body of my post without also making them attachments? Seems like that should be really easy....

[TwinTurboGTR]

Well certainly looks like you got your hands full. As far as getting ball joints out... you can buy the tool that presses them out at Harbor Freight for $16 i believe. I've used it several times. Every time I used it, it feels like I should get ready for a massive explosion because there are times where I will crank it down and the joint should pop and it doesn't. SO every extra turn becomes a game of "Pop now or later?" One time I got it all the way down... I had to give it a whack with a sledge hammer to get it to pop. Only time I will use a pickle form is if the boot is already torn.

As far as the CV, hopefully you went with a quality replacement. Many have gone the cheap route and ended up replacing them within a year. As far as the grease within the inner CV joint, that color is normal. That is the factory grease that was installed.

As far as using that gear puller ripping the dust shield... I believe the article stated that. I think the tool that attaches to the lug nuts can be obtained through amazon for a song.

Good Luck.

[Bulk]

+1 for replacing the axle with genuine BMW.

[Ricky Bobby]

I rented the tool from Autozone that is used to pull the hub (or push it inwards in case of axle removal) by screwing in the lug holes for free from their loaner tool program. the claw pullers definitely will damage the dust shield.


maybe you should have paid more attention to the other CV boot diy threads on the forums? If you did you would have realized you don't have to do the whole procedure by the book and remove everything (this would have avoided the tie rod boot ripping, so you'll have to replace that part)

You only have to either remove the brake caliper, rotor and unbolt the bottom of the strut, or disconnect the wishbone control arm at the frame of the car. that's it. Any axle removal can be done by disconnecting either of those, you don't have to unbolt both.

Would have saved you some time, money and aggravation.

And yes, the inner boot grease is tripod joint grease, more runny and yellow looking, the outer boot takes CV joint moly grease. Go with a quality replacement, you have the options of either getting rebuilt OEM cores from Cardone for about 70 bucks a side, new Chinese built Carone axles for about 55 a side, or OEM from BMW or OEM replacements from Raxles for about 250 a side.

[mferek]

well hell, all of that would have been useful 3 days ago, haha. Well thanks for the info. I didn't search for too many other DIYs once I found the one I used. It seemed pretty comprehensive. Lesson learned...

When you say cores, what are you referring to? The actual CV joint, the whole axle, or what?

[Ricky Bobby]

there is a 20+ page thread that is entitled "cv boot changed in 30 minutes" that I wish you found before starting! haha


With axles, there usually is a "core charge, meaning you buy a remanufactured axle, install it, and bring back to the auto store or send back in the mail your "core", which is the axle that came off your car, exposed joints and all if you had a leaking boot.

With the aftermarket options which you will find axles for less than $100 a pop, Cardone brand is what you will find. They make 2 different types for our X5's, Cardone Select, which is brand new built, not remanufactured (but is Chinese made), and A1 Cardone, which is remanufactured from what is supposed to be an OE core (aka what everyone else has to send back after installing a remanufactured unit)

I would assume the joints are checked for excess wear, cleaned up, and they are rebooted with fresh grease and clips, etc. If the joints are excessively worn I would assume those are replaced on the remanufactured units before being sold in stores.

[Bulk]

Save yourself a whole lot of time and angst and buy a new genuine - otherwise you'll be back in there in a couple of years ripping joint boots and swearing the dictionary when your refurbed or ching made axle gives up.