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#31
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Quote:
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Kirk Las Vegas 2016 X5 40e Mineral White/Black Dakota Leather, ZLL, ZCW, ZDA, ZDB, ZPP, multi contour seats, rear side window shades, HK stereo 2011 E90M3, 6-speed manual |
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#32
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What about the wrench to hold the ball joint from spinning, 18mm? - but needs to be thin.
first of all 18mm is an odd ball - doesn't come in the standard "wrench set", PLUS its got to be so thin - another BMW "special tool" I HATE buying these "one time" tools, defeats the purpose of DIY...... Another Harbor Freight trip, I plain on buying a cheep 18mm wrench and grinding it down |
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#33
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Didn't mean to grab the working part of the shaft-- but can do that on the old strut. I was suggesting to latch on to the very top of the shaft and use an open end wrench to back the nut off. My struts are fitted with an allen wrench on the top of the shaft.
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Dallas |
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#34
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When you torque the shaft nut to 45 ft/lbs with a standard socket during installation, the only accessable area of the shaft is the precision ground area below the hat. Not a fan of directing DIYers to do that when the correct tool costs so much less then the strut.
Those with access to a wire EDM machine could cut a window in a deep reach 22mm socket, If the special tool was too pricey I was prepared to do this.
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! |
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#35
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As for using vice grips, as you noted, that was the shade tree way in the good ol' days. For me, that was when there was no way I would buy a special tool. I either made what I needed, borrowed it or found a home grown workaround. I shouldn't have mentioned it at all--oopsie. As you know, X5 struts take an allen wrench in the top of the shaft. I use an allen wrench to hold the shaft and an open end wrench to remove the nut. Same way for the install. You ask how do I torque it--Since it is a locking nut I use Kentucky windage torque imbedded in my pea brain byt tightening the nut before I remove it to see how much effort it takes to get it to move so I know how it should feel when I tighten the new one. The only reason I mentioned it at all is that sometimes DIY is a budget necessity and/or special tools will never be used again so an optional workaround can have merit.
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Dallas |
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#36
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Oh right, i was just thinking for taking it off
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2003 4.6is 2004 E53 4.4i N62 http://i.imgur.com/nNNg5Qz.jpg http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3xxtq5op.jpg 2007 E63 M6 S85 http://i.imgur.com/mSXK6ML.jpg 1984 Porsche 911 930 Turbo http://i.imgur.com/i9XUXOg.jpgg http://i.imgur.com/ZMGou51.jpg 1983 E21 320i [Sold] http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd905353.jpg |
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#37
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Been doing it this way all my life, except for major safety components.
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2010 X6 50i 2005 X5 3.Oi, Many Options 2015 HONDA CR-V EX-L 1998 ACURA 2.5TL MODs - Driver's outside mirror light - Voice Recognition Module - Blaupunkt Entertainment System with Digital TV |
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#38
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Now I always follow the torque specs because I have the tools/data on hand. I like doing it because I don't have to wonder if something I worked on was over/under torqued in the event of a suspicious noise after a DIYing. As you have no doubt seen by my posts in prior threads, I always stress that new DIYers torque items properly because many item are not very tight at all on BMWs. The poster in this thread that snapped the threaded end off the strut shaft is a good example.
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! Last edited by TiAgX5; 10-12-2013 at 08:50 PM. |
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#39
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I use a torque wrench whenever I can. That click is erotic and I feel like a real BMW tech.
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Dallas |
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#40
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Hahaha, so true.
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'03 X5 4.4 Sport, last of the M62s (8-03 build date) I believe in deadication to craftmanship in a world of mediocrity! |
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