Installing New Pads Without Lubrication

[JCL]

From the BMW repair manual and technician training materials. The point is made explicitly there.

Some lubricants react with the sleeves. It depends on the composition of the specific grease. Others won't hurt them. The safest is to use them as designed, dry. And ensure that the dust caps are in good shape.

Edit: This is the only link I could find quickly. It links to two more threads on the same subject. http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-cleaner.html

[Brandon002]

I guess technicians are taught differently in areas where the roads are covered i. Salt in the winter. Bmw also says trans fluid and fuel filters are lifetime items. I have never installed brakes on any car without greasing the slide pins ans ive been a tech for 17 years.

[JCL]

I would grease any pins that are exposed to the weather (VW comes to mind, and many Japanese makes).

The BMW pins are designed not to be greased, and they have worked well for me when left dry on all my BMW vehicles. The difference is the slide bushings, and the sealing caps. It is a BMW specific issue; they train their techs to keep them dry.

My wrenching goes back a little more than 17 years.

[Brandon002]

I'm not going to argue with you.

I've been greasing the pins on my BMW brakes since my first BMW in 1995 and I have never had anything "swell" from grease.

I could see that being a possibility if you're gobbing grease on the pins, but a light film isn't going to hurt anything.

And that's great that your wrenching goes back more than 17 years, My Dad can beat up your dad.

[JCL]

It is perfectly OK if you want to grease the slide pins. It is your vehicle.

But I think it is worth noting that they are not designed to be greased. They work just fine not being greased. If any mechanic or DIYer out there feels that they know more than the team that designed the slide pins, I wonder what that belief is based on, other than habit? BMW has gone to some trouble to include the do not grease message in the TIS and training materials.

You brought up the 17 years. Sorry if my comment sounded harsh, it wasn't intended that way.

[BMW_E53]

Thank you for the advice! Brandon002 and JCL. Also about the lifetime transmission fluid, have any of you guys changed yours or ever thought about changing it?

[JCL]

Trans fluid: No, never changed it. Yes I have thought about it, and decided not to. I never had a reason to change it, as the transmission functioned fine and there was no demonstrated history of fluid failure or degradation leading to transmission failure. That makes fluid changes a low return investment, to me. There are other things more important to spend preventative maintenance dollars and time on. In my opinion.

If I had a shifting problem and suspected the fluid was out of spec, I would change it before opening up the transmission.

Probably better to start a separate thread, this topic tends to bring out strong opinions.

[BMW_E53]

Also I have a question on my old Pads. How come my passenger side pads died completely (like down to the metal) and the driver's side still had pad left?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by BMW_E53

Also I have a question on my old Pads. How come my passenger side pads died completely (like down to the metal) and the driver's side still had pad left?

Because either the calipers need rebuilding (pistons sticking) or the slides hung up, causing one side to drag and wear out the pads prematurely.

[RFaber]

Hello, allow me to chime in on a couple points. feel free to take it or leave it, no flames please!!
My theory on brake pad wear is this; the passenger side of the road is where most of the dust and debris lays and is picked up by the vehicle and makes contact with the rotors and pads and acts as tiny bits of grit to wear down the pad and/or rotor faster than the drivers side. Roads are designed with a crown in them to allow rain to wash the dust off the sides. In Nascar racing, the cars turn left (forgive the obvious) so when the brakes are applied in the corners, the front passenger side is loaded up more so than the drivers side.
I know when I check a vehicle for brakes, first thing I look at is the Passenger side. I also concur with JCL that if there is pronounced uneven wear on the pads it would lead me to a sticking caliper piston, especially if the inner pad is totally worn out, and there is more than 1/8 inch on the outer pad.
Also, there was mention of CRC disc brake quiet, this is GREAT stuff, BUT its not a grease, its more like a red silicone, that is meant to be applied to the caliper piston, and the outer pad where it contacts the caliper, it is NOT a grease or lubricant. It is meant as a method of eliminating squealing due to vibration. it has zero lubrication qualities.!!!! (its still great for what it does though and I use it all the time!!) be sure to use a proper brake caliper lube on the outer wings of the brake pads where they contact the calipers.
just my two cents! also, in most cars/trucks/SAVs the front brakes carry 70% of the braking weight, so they wear accordingly!

Disclaimer : I am not a professional mechanic, I just play one on the weekends in my shop!! Ive been wrenching since I was ten!!