|
Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
__________________
********************* Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA ----------------------------------------- 2005 Mini Cooper 100k, British Racing Green/Silver-Black 04/2002 4.6is 140k, Silver/Black-Alcantara *FOR SALE* 1989 325iX 270k, Diamond Black/Black 1984 318i 370k *SOLD* (First Bimmer) Honorable Mentions: '71 2002, '87 325, '90 325ic, '92 525it, '93 325i, '94 530i |
Sponsored Links | |
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the replys. To clarify, the ball joint that I am talking about is the one in the photo below.
This is the ball joint of the "upper" control arm (UCA) / tension strut rod. It is the foremost arm, or the one nearest the front of the vehicle. The housing fit up into the underside of the sterring knuckle and ball stud extends downward. (Not the "lower" contol arm (LCA) where the ball joint is seated in the control arm itself and stud fits into the steering knuckle.) A pickle fork and a BFH can usually take care of the LCA ball joint. The ball joint mounted in the steering knuckle, not so easy.
__________________
_____________________________ 2001 e53 X5 3.0i (10/2000 build date) - Beige exterior, Beige/Sand interior w/ light wood |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Im pretty certain you can use the tool on this... Just how a tierod goes into the knuckle - just this doesnt have an "arm" attached to it.
The flat part goes where the boot is and slim part ontop of the bolt. When you impact the bolt in on the tool, it pushes the boot part up and out. From recently replacing the front thrust arm which attaches to this, after that is off, there is enough room from the front of the knuckle (front of car direction) to put that tool on and pop it out.
__________________
2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
__________________
2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The difference between the E30 in the video and the X5 is the orientation of the ball joint. That seperator works wonders when seperating a control from the ball joint stud. I have already completed that step and am now trying to get the ball joint itself (the whole assembly as seen in the photo above) out of the steering knuckle. I can take a picture later and post it to help clarify which ball joint I am talking about and why it is such a bear to get at. Thanks agian for the help.
__________________
_____________________________ 2001 e53 X5 3.0i (10/2000 build date) - Beige exterior, Beige/Sand interior w/ light wood |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Are you trying to remove the ball joint from the spindle?
A punch and BFH should be able to remove the joint from the spindle/hub. Once you remove the two bolts securing the joint to the spindle. Or the control arm that attaches to the joint?
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
LOL . . . Sorry if I am causing confusion. Yes, I am trying to get that damned balljoint out of the spindle/knuckle - just as you have it in the photo. Forget about the control arm, it's gone at this point - I just want to get the ball joint out of the knuckle. I sprayed it up good with penetrating oil last night. When I get home this evening I am going to go after it with the pipe wrench as suggested by Junkycosmos and Kristophe. I will take photos later. Thanks again. [Edit] If I had the entire knuckle removed (as in your photo), I would just drive the darn thing out. What I am wanting to do is take it out without having to removed the entire knuckle. I realize it may come to this, but I am going to give the pipe wrech a shot first.
__________________
_____________________________ 2001 e53 X5 3.0i (10/2000 build date) - Beige exterior, Beige/Sand interior w/ light wood |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
********************* Olympic Peninsula, WA, USA ----------------------------------------- 2005 Mini Cooper 100k, British Racing Green/Silver-Black 04/2002 4.6is 140k, Silver/Black-Alcantara *FOR SALE* 1989 325iX 270k, Diamond Black/Black 1984 318i 370k *SOLD* (First Bimmer) Honorable Mentions: '71 2002, '87 325, '90 325ic, '92 525it, '93 325i, '94 530i |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Ohhhh... Ok i see, its mounted differently then i thought.
In this case rent the balljoint tool from advance auto, its a huge c clamp with different fittings that for example allows you to push on the stud while not putting pressure on the top of it.
__________________
2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
The ball joint is press fitted into the hub. The bolts are there just to prevent it from slipping out. Only way to get it out is to beat it out with a BFH. Or make yourself a tool with a Big C-Clamp some pipe stock and plate stock to push it out.
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
|