Front Wheel Bearing Change is a Nightmare!

[sethhatfield]

I'm changing my left front CV axle and wheel bearing and I have to say it is the most aggravating job I've attempted on this beast.

That's saying something because I've replaced all the timing chains and guides and rebuilt the VANOS units. I also just rebuilt the transfer case.

The bearing just won't come out! I bought the harbor freight bearing press and it fits perfectly but didn't have the strength to remove it. The race came out stuck to the hub when I managed to get it out with a slide hammer. I had to cut it and break it with a chisel to get it off but the outer portion of the bearing is seized inside the hub.

I'm trying an air hammer next to see if I can make it move.

[sethhatfield]

Update. I got the bearing out with the bearing removal kit finally. What a pain!

[Ricky Bobby]

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...aring-r-r.html

8 page thread but I chime in many of my install tips and tricks here, I used the Harbor freight adapters as you did. Make sure you go buy a steel threaded rod from Home Depot, the one that comes in the Harbor Freight kit stripped out the first time I used it (cheap chinese soft steel)

Once I replaced the rod, as long as I greased up everything and kept it lubed and used a long enough breaker bar to turn the nut, everything went smooth. It takes a ton of force to press them out on the car though, but its definitely doable. Make sure you have the strut bolts connected in place so the knuckle is supported!

Good luck and make sure to only press on the inner race from the back when you press the hub back in. For what its worth, its completely normal and expected for the inner race to be stuck to the hub when it comes out. I used a dremel and a cut off wheel to cut a nice vertical notch in the inner race, and a few whacks with a cold chisel cracked it and loosened it up to be slid off the hub.

Anti-seize EVERYTHING on the install, and be sure to replace the circlips and dust covers (they are cheap parts, the circlips can be reused but I'd prefer knowing they were new and sometimes the dust covers can become loose when doing the job, putting a new one in place ensures no noises from a loose cover after bolting it back up!)


And don't forget the best part of the job, when you finish one side, you still have the other side to do

[Kristophe]

Been there done that, my friend. I did both my CV axle and bearing last Oct. I ended up taking the hub to a shop and had the old bearing pressed out and new one in for $50. I think I paid $43 for the bearing.

If anything its a very educational experience for when you have to do the other side (hat tip to Ricky Bobby) AND you're saving some serious $$$. I was quoted somewhere north of $700. And while I was at it I replaced my Thrust arm bushings and ball joints.

[RFaber]

Hello, allow me to chime in here having just done my front wheel bearings.
I found it way easier to remove the entire knuckle, and then press out (ok pound the hub out with a large impact socket and a 2lb hammer) then remove all the sheet metal surrounding the hub and brake rotor.
I also put the bearings in the freezer (although it didn't make much difference, as it was already way below freezing when I did the job!!)
I agree with other posters, in that lots of anti-seize is paramount! if I am the next guy to do the wheel bearings, I will thank myself in the future!

The HF bearing puller is a pretty good unit, although I used it in conjunction with my 20 T HF press to push out the wheel bearing, I did have to load up the press (pretty much to the max pressure I felt comfortable with, then walk away and do something else. ) after about 15 seconds, BANG, and the bearing was moving out!! a few easy pumps later it was clear and ready to accept the new bearing.
I didn't feel comfortable heating up the knuckle with a torch.
anyhow, if you were closer up north I would have said come on by! but alas, it would be quite a road trip!
hope the rest went smoothly!!

[sethhatfield]

Well, bad news. I managed to damage the new bearing installing it and had to remove it. I really don't know what I did wrong except maybe not pressing on the inner race only from the back? It doesn't bode well for the new bearing I'm going to pick up today.

Also, the new CV axle doesn't really want to go into the hub. I don't see any way to force it because it has a rubber boot on it I don't want to damage.

BTW, there is no chance I'm doing the other side unless it makes the same hellacious noise this side did.

[upallnight]

Some time it's better to bring it in then to DIY

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by sethhatfield

Well, bad news. I managed to damage the new bearing installing it and had to remove it. I really don't know what I did wrong except maybe not pressing on the inner race only from the back? It doesn't bode well for the new bearing I'm going to pick up today.

Also, the new CV axle doesn't really want to go into the hub. I don't see any way to force it because it has a rubber boot on it I don't want to damage.

BTW, there is no chance I'm doing the other side unless it makes the same hellacious noise this side did.

That's what you did wrong, common error and one I almost made myself until I re-read various E39 bearing DIY's, common thinking would have you say "I want the biggest disc I can fit in the back to brace against the bearing while the hub is being pressed in" but you really have to check which disc on contacts the entire surface of the inner race and nothing more while pressing that hub back in.

[sethhatfield]

I got the bearing and hub in but the CV axle doesn't want to go in. How do I force it without beating on it and ruining the bearing?

[sethhatfield]

I know the problem. It is for a 4/2000 and on. Mine is a 02/2000. Everything is different.