Engine Oil level...

[BigBlack48is]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Have you replaced the CCV's on your 4.8? If so they should be the newest design and you shouldn't be burning oil from that, and they are dirt cheap and easy to replace compared to the complicated M54 system.

If you have replaced them and are still burning oil its your valve stem seals.

ccv's updated and the valve stems are not going to cause the oil to be passed into the intake upon idle... it's a design flaw that bmw fixed in 2007 with the "updated" valve cover and ccv valve built into the hose.

I refuse to give BMW $500 in parts to fix something that they clearly new was not correct, but just wanted to make all kinds of $$$ off the consumer.

I am going the "catch can route" to fix this issue...

[dkl]

Make sure you're measuring it on a leveled surface. My garage appeared to be rather flat (I can't imagine it being more than 1* incline), but I would read full level when parked head in, but only 1/2 full when parked head out.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by BigBlack48is

ccv's updated and the valve stems are not going to cause the oil to be passed into the intake upon idle... it's a design flaw that bmw fixed in 2007 with the "updated" valve cover and ccv valve built into the hose.

I refuse to give BMW $500 in parts to fix something that they clearly new was not correct, but just wanted to make all kinds of $$$ off the consumer.

I am going the "catch can route" to fix this issue...

I'm just going by what I've read on here as a few 4.8/N62 owners reported valve stem seals causing the smoking at idle which I would think is indicative of burning oil.

Did not know that BMW updated the design of the valve cover in 07 for the N62, its $500???? That's ridiculous! However if it fixes the problem I would probably just do it if I owned a 4.8.

Looking forward to the catch can...

[sockethead]

I've always put 9 qts. in.... gets it to the upper end of the fill mark.
The dipstick is a pain to read... why on earth did they make the color of the plastic the same color as clean oil? if you check the oil shortly after running the engine the excess oil lining the dipstick tube gets on the end of the dipstick and skews the reading. I always try to check first thing in the morning.

[BigBlack48is]

Originally Posted by sockethead

I've always put 9 qts. in.... gets it to the upper end of the fill mark.
The dipstick is a pain to read... why on earth did they make the color of the plastic the same color as clean oil? if you check the oil shortly after running the engine the excess oil lining the dipstick tube gets on the end of the dipstick and skews the reading. I always try to check first thing in the morning.

Strange.... my dipstick is red...

[sockethead]

Originally Posted by BigBlack48is

Strange.... my dipstick is red...

yea so is mine but THAT red.... why couldn't it be bright red or blue or green or something...

[JCL]

All this talk about oil dipsticks, but not about how to do it properly. Inconsistent readings are usually user error in my experience.

1) Engine has to be at operating temperature. Drive it 10 miles or so. If it is cold, it will not read correctly.
2) Vehicle has to be level, front/back and left/right.
3) Shut it off. Allow 5 minutes for the circulating oil to run back down to the sump. If you don't, it will not read correctly. If you check it a few times and the reading isn't changing any longer, fine. If the stick has residual oil on it making it difficult to read, you probably haven't let it drain down.
4) Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.
5) Try measuring with the dipstick spun 180 degrees. It can make a difference in some vehicles due to the way the dipstick enters the sump.
6) Sometimes a vehicle has the wrong dipstick. I have seen this with new vehicles, and with older vehicles where a dipstick was swapped. This isn't common, but it something to check if all of the above fails to get a reading consistent with published fill capacities.

Jeff

[tmv]

Originally Posted by JCL

All this talk about oil dipsticks, but not about how to do it properly. Inconsistent readings are usually user error in my experience.

1) Engine has to be at operating temperature. (I've missed this part here. Always measure after ~2min idle following an oil change. I do re-check after some drive time though) Drive it 10 miles or so. If it is cold, it will not read correctly.
2) Vehicle has to be level, front/back and left/right.
3) Shut it off. Allow 5 minutes for the circulating oil to run back down to the sump. If you don't, it will not read correctly. If you check it a few times and the reading isn't changing any longer, fine. If the stick has residual oil on it making it difficult to read, you probably haven't let it drain down.
4) Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.
5) Try measuring with the dipstick spun 180 degrees. It can make a difference in some vehicles due to the way the dipstick enters the sump.
6) Sometimes a vehicle has the wrong dipstick. I have seen this with new vehicles, and with older vehicles where a dipstick was swapped. This isn't common, but it something to check if all of the above fails to get a reading consistent with published fill capacities.

Jeff

Thanks for the info Jeff.

[sockethead]

hmm I forgot about cold vs hot thanks