oil filter housing cover 'tightness'

[beamertruck]

Originally Posted by romeokc10

I've broken things before trying get them to spec, and I have four torque wrenches. For things like changing your oil and such I just use the good ole' calibrated elbow method (common sense), it has never failed me.

Have your wrench's calibrated, I have mine tested each week (my snap-on guy tests em each week for free, sometimes just use DIY test methods) and calibrate them to keep them on par. My kobalt 1/2in i just take for replacement lol. Honestly if your breaking things torquing to spec with a tq wrench, somethings not right. Now i recommend and electronic tq wrench like my Snappy techwrench but at $1000+ probably not feasible, even the Cman are like 400. Go to lowes and pickup up one of the Kobalts and exchange it when it needs calibration for a new one.

[omodos]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Ditto about the location of the large O-ring (#5 in the diagram below)...take note of where the old one is located BEFORE you remove it. There should be a place for it at the top of the threads...don't make the mistake many owners make and just roll it up to the top just under where the lid screws down on top of the reservoir.

The large O-ring should be inside the reservoir...near the top...when the cap is screwed on....but not "BETWEEN" the cap and top of the reservoir. Also make sure you take your finger and lubricate the new O-ring.

HINT: remember to insert/snap the NEW oil filter into the reservoir's lid FIRST...then screw the new filter and lid into the reservoir together. There should be "teeth" at the top of the lid that secures the filter to keep it from falling out.

(note the arrows pointing to the location of the O-rings)



(here's some examples of oil reservoir lids (some are not exact design of the type in your diesel...but the thread & O-ring location is the same) and the large O-ring's location...it's simple but if placed incorrectly...the reservoir will leak)

Here's a video that covers what every one has said in this thread so far about the oil filter reservoir, gasket, changing process of a BMW:

BMW 3 or 5 Series E46 E39 Oil Change DIY - YouTube

watched the vid and all fell into place despite the fact that the guy in the vid looked like he tightened the oil filter housing down real hard....i guess if i get the large o-ring in the groove and tighten down as suggested and check for leaks and if there is one will tighten down a tad harder etc...again thanks for all the help...and i didn't want to start a war on the pro s and cons of torque wrenches

[TiAgX5]

No war, discussion.

[beamertruck]

Yep, just a discussion.

[mopes]

Timely thread as I just performed my first oil change on the 4.8is.

I also managed to tear the o ring somehow during installation. First time that has happened in 17 years. Not sure where it went wrong but I must not have had it in the obvious groove but rather slightly above or below it. It was lubed up but still leaked like a mofo on testing and was clearly torn upon removal.

I installed the filter up into the filter housing first, prior to installing the filter cap. Looks like some of you guys install the filter into the filter cap first and then install them together. Is there a consensus on which method should be used on this motor?

[TiAgX5]

I've always snapped the filter into the cap (post new cap O-ring install), then install the cap/filter assembly into the housing.

If you notice, the filter ALWAYS comes out of the housing attached to the cap (at least on the M62 with BMW dealer sourced filters).

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by mopes

...I installed the filter up into the filter housing first, prior to installing the filter cap...some of you guys install the filter into the filter cap first and then install them together. Is there a consensus on which method should be used on this motor?

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

I've always snapped the filter into the cap ...then install the cap/filter assembly into the housing...the filter ALWAYS comes out of the housing attached to the cap (at least on the M62 with BMW dealer sourced filters).

Ditto TiAgX5...if you snap the oil filter into the lid first, then screw both into the reservoir together...you pretty much can assure that the filter will screw out with the lid on the next change (unless you used a really cheap filter that falls apart...or an extra long change interval that ends with a really deteriorated filter).

If you pop the filter into the reservoir first, then screw the lid on...the teeth in the lid may not set correctly in the filter...so when the next change come along, the filter may remain or be stuck in the reservoir (if it really dirty).

I don't think its a real big issue (or no no)...but inserting the new filter into the lid first before screwing down the lid...makes the filter removal easier at the next change by not having to grab/squeeze or finesse the oily filter out of the reservoir. When the filter is attached to the lid...it sort of gives it a "handle" that allows you to lift the filter out, then quickly stick it in a plastic bag (to catch any drips/oil residue) for disposal.

This procedure applies to the N62 engines as well (probably moreso without even thinking about it) since the oil filter is underneath the vehicle. Having the filter come down & out from the reservoir when the lid is removed helps quickly dispose the old filter without having to handle it separately...and it definitely makes it easier to install the new filter since you are inserting the filter up into the reservoir from below the vehicle.