oil filter housing cover 'tightness'

omodos · #1 03-31-2014, 03:39 AM

hi all, and apologies if this is a repeat question,AND a stupid one but I don't have access to torque wrenches etc and am getting an oil change done (via a vacum pump, so wont be taking off sump plug)

plus i need to replace oil filter, but am worried about the correct tightness of the oil filter cover/cap, I am sure i saw on a post here to hand tighten it a quarter turn as such.....?does this mean once I screw down the oil filter housing cover by hand only till i feel resistence to then go another one quarter turn by hand only and thats all, or do i employ the use of a wrench or spanner as such to tighten down at any point.....?#

any replies much appreciated

powers1 · #2 03-31-2014, 06:38 AM

Hi Omodos
The filter housing has a large "o" ring to seal,so it can be hand tighten as its all plastic and when you tighten to a certain point ,it wont tighten any further.You can use a wrench just lightly to confirm that you have tightened it fully by hand.We dont have the tightening torque here but I would guess,its around 14Nms,the same as the engine oil pressure switch

Basically ,do what you posted

MINIz guy · #3 03-31-2014, 09:38 AM

Hand tight and then 1/4 turn should work.

Keep in mind the o-ring on the cap. When you put it on the cap, put it closest to the threads. When you tighten, it should move up and form a tight seal with the housing and cap. Don't tighten too much so that you can see the o-ring bulge out. You'll see what I'm talking about when you do overtighten.

upallnight · #4 03-31-2014, 10:45 AM

Just get a cheap torque wrench at harbor freight and tighten it to 25 NM. If you're going to DIY on the X you should get some tools to do it right. Sometime HF have them on sale for less then 10 bucks.

Qsilver7 · #5 03-31-2014, 10:56 AM

Ditto about the location of the large O-ring (#5 in the diagram below)...take note of where the old one is located BEFORE you remove it. There should be a place for it at the top of the threads...don't make the mistake many owners make and just roll it up to the top just under where the lid screws down on top of the reservoir.

The large O-ring should be inside the reservoir...near the top...when the cap is screwed on....but not "BETWEEN" the cap and top of the reservoir. Also make sure you take your finger and lubricate the new O-ring.

HINT: remember to insert/snap the NEW oil filter into the reservoir's lid FIRST...then screw the new filter and lid into the reservoir together. There should be "teeth" at the top of the lid that secures the filter to keep it from falling out.

(note the arrows pointing to the location of the O-rings)

(here's some examples of oil reservoir lids (some are not exact design of the type in your diesel...but the thread & O-ring location is the same) and the large O-ring's location...it's simple but if placed incorrectly...the reservoir will leak)

Here's a video that covers what every one has said in this thread so far about the oil filter reservoir, gasket, changing process of a BMW:

BMW 3 or 5 Series E46 E39 Oil Change DIY - YouTube

omodos · #6 04-02-2014, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Ditto about the location of the large O-ring (#5 in the diagram below)...take note of where the old one is located BEFORE you remove it. There should be a place for it at the top of the threads...don't make the mistake many owners make and just roll it up to the top just under where the lid screws down on top of the reservoir.

The large O-ring should be inside the reservoir...near the top...when the cap is screwed on....but not "BETWEEN" the cap and top of the reservoir. Also make sure you take your finger and lubricate the new O-ring.

HINT: remember to insert/snap the NEW oil filter into the reservoir's lid FIRST...then screw the new filter and lid into the reservoir together. There should be "teeth" at the top of the lid that secures the filter to keep it from falling out.

(note the arrows pointing to the location of the O-rings)

(here's some examples of oil reservoir lids (some are not exact design of the type in your diesel...but the thread & O-ring location is the same) and the large O-ring's location...it's simple but if placed incorrectly...the reservoir will leak)

Here's a video that covers what every one has said in this thread so far about the oil filter reservoir, gasket, changing process of a BMW:

BMW 3 or 5 Series E46 E39 Oil Change DIY - YouTube

watched the vid and all fell into place despite the fact that the guy in the vid looked like he tightened the oil filter housing down real hard....i guess if i get the large o-ring in the groove and tighten down as suggested and check for leaks and if there is one will tighten down a tad harder etc...again thanks for all the help...and i didn't want to start a war on the pro s and cons of torque wrenches

bcredliner · #7 03-31-2014, 12:11 PM

This is one of those things that everyone should verify there is a good seal.

I have always used the the method you mention even though I have the proper torque wrench because the verification is so simple--run the engine and see if it leaking.

Just to be safe I look again in a couple of days and I always watch the garage floor for oil.

TiAgX5 · #8 03-31-2014, 12:21 PM

Still can't understand the logic of some DIYers that REFUSE to buy a torque wrench.

That plastic cap will probably cost more to replace than a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8 torque wrench and a 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapter (to fit the 1/2 drive 36mm socket).

DIY 101...... step 1, get torque wrenches, step 2, get a Bentley manual or online access to torque specs.

DIYing without tq wrenches is a fools folly.

bcredliner · #9 03-31-2014, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

Still can't understand the logic of some DIYers that REFUSE to buy a torque wrench.

That plastic cap will probably cost more to replace than a cheap Harbor Freight 3/8 torque wrench and a 3/8 to 1/2 socket adapter (to fit the 1/2 drive 36mm socket).

DIY 101...... step 1, get torque wrenches, step 2, get a Bentley manual or online access to torque specs.

DIYing without tq wrenches is a fools folly.

For clarification only, OP has not refused to buy a torque wrench just does not own one. Nor do we know if there will be any DIY other than change the oil and filter. All that has been asked is what we think of the method without a torque wrench for this particular DIY. I won't speak for you but I couldn't hand tighten a filter cap enough to cause it to break.

Risking I am acknowledging I am a fool, I have never used a torque wrench to tighten an oil filter or cap. That is not a refusal to do so but it is a statement that of how critical I think it is in this particular DIY.

beamertruck · #10 03-31-2014, 02:48 PM

I cant understand why anyone would buy cheap tools (ya i get harbor freight for stuff thats maybe gonna be used once or twice) I love my snap on electronic torque wrench. Craftsman has a fantastic one as well, Kobalts are phenomenal BUT they only offer larger values, Home depots are also good. Personally I like my snap on and matco because theyre super high quality and my dealers are great. bcredliner I dont use torque wrenchs unless its engine work or wheels etc. but thats only because ive been doing this for so long I kinda have a feel for the correct amount of torque.