AC Not working, clutch not engaging, Solar Sensor errors on BMW Scanner 1.4

[diddy0071]

As the title states, my AC clutch isn't engaging. I can see the belt spinning, but no click of engagment. AC DOES NOT blow cold and the ports appear to show high pressure. I ran a check with BMW Scanner 1.4 and it came up with 2 errors, a left and a right solar sensor error only. I dunno if it is the compressor that kicked the bucket, or the coil. IF it is the coil, I can order the part from ebay and have it here in a few days. Would I need to remove the compressor to change the coil, or can I do it while installed? I can probably remove the bottom plastic cover and the fan so I can have access from up top and from the bottom.

[diddy0071]

Before I forget, the aux fan was replaced in 2012. It works, as I can see it spinning when I take a long drive. And before anyone asks, yes I did replace the thermostat on this baby. Gas mileage is still kinda shitty though.

[upallnight]

Which port is showing high pressure low side or high side? What is the pressure reading?

Low side should be between 36 - 40 psi High side should be 180+.

[jcp240z]

How can it blow cold if it is not engaging?

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by jcp240z

How can it blow cold if it is not engaging?

Good question

[diddy0071]

I had originally bought the freon can thinking it was low. It came with the hose that only attaches to what I assume is the lowside port. The port shows that it is in the "red" or 60-80psi.

The fan clutch does not engage at all. I was messing with NCS expert today trying to get the fucking thing to code the windows rolling up with the key (STILL NOT WORKING, I dunno what I'm doing wrong btw) and I decided to run another check with BMW Scanner 1.4. This is what I got:

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by jcp240z

How can it blow cold if it is not engaging?

My bad, I meant to say it does NOT blow cold.

[katit]

Just did this today (replaced coil) in 3.0i you can do it without discharging system, I did it 2nd time (more later)

Just take fan/shrout out and then work from a bottom (remove plastic shield)

1. Take belt off (torx)
2. Take center bolt in compressor clutch (Torx T30), I held pulley in place using this rubber-belt type oil filter wrench.
3. Top plate should come out, wiggle it out.
4. Remove snap ring from inside and take out pulley. Snap ring is tricky, but doable with 90 degree snap ring pliers. Now you will see coil.
5. I did take 3 compressor bolts (13mm) out and pushed compressor about an inch backwards to get more room (lines still connected)
6. Remove snap ring and remove coil (disconnect)


Coil from eBay will have locating pin either grinded or in a wrong spot. I did replace this coil in 2009 and seller said that snap ring will hold it, no need for pin. Today I took old one (was burning fuses) - and YES, it spin and shorted power wire to ground.

This time I degreased surfaces and put some RTV inbetween coil and compressor. It should act as non-slip and glue.

[diddy0071]

Originally Posted by katit

Just did this today (replaced coil) in 3.0i you can do it without discharging system, I did it 2nd time (more later)

Just take fan/shrout out and then work from a bottom (remove plastic shield)

1. Take belt off (torx)
2. Take center bolt in compressor clutch (Torx T30)
3. Top plate should come out, wiggle it out.
4. Remove snap ring from inside and take out pulley. Snap ring is tricky, but doable with 90 degree snap ring pliers. Now you will see coil.
5. I did take 3 compressor bolts (13mm) out and pushed compressor about an inch backwards to get more room (lines still connected)
6. Remove snap ring and remove coil (disconnect)


Coil from eBay will have locating pin either grounded or in a wrong spot. I did replace this coil in 2009 and seller said that snap ring will hold it, no need for pin. Today I took old one (was burning fuses) - and YES, it spin and shorted power wire to ground.

This time I degreased surfaces and put some RTV inbetween coil and compressor. It should act as non-slip and glue.

How I wish you could have taken pics or a quick tutorial. It sounds easy, but steps 5 and 6 sound hard as shit. But...I've done all the work myself, so I'm gonna have to wing it hard.

As for the locating pin, I have no clue what any of that means. Can you elaborate? Bear with me, I am NO mechanic.

[katit]

All comes down to proper tools. #5 is not hard. It's just 3 bolts that hold your compressor to engine. 2 upfront and one on a back. Pretty easy to get to. I did take them out so I can move compressor little backwards (more room)

Soo.. NO NEED to do this if you have good 90 degree snap ring pliers. First snap ring that holds pulley is almost on top and the one on a coil is little deeper, thats all.

As for locating pin.. Coil have to be oriented in certain position (wires going up) It can rotate. So, there is a small hole in compressor under coil and coil has small pin sticking out that goes to this hole. This is to prevent coil from spinning. Original coil has pin in a proper spot. But eBay replacements do not have it in proper spot and you need to grind it off in order for coil to be flush. But then nothing stops replacement coil from spinning. I was told that it's OK, it won't go anywhere. Worked for 5 years

Attaching pictures of original (white) and eBay (black) coils