Ripped CV Boot. 2 part numbers WTF?

[SlickGT1]

Cool, yes this is what I was looking for. What is the point of the 3/4" FIP male adapter. I don't see the full picture here I think. How do you pull on that socket?

[Ricky Bobby]

The male adapter is just to show how far it will thread on, what you will do is thread that tool on the axle, and in doing so it will pull it through the hub so you can fit the new axle nut on.

That socket goes onto a normal ratchet and turning the socket will thread the "tool" deeper onto the axle so it comes through. When its through enough just loosen the "tool" off the axle like unscrewing a bolt

[upallnight]

The special BMW tool can seen at 7:10 in this youtube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TCe1Cc4KGk

[SlickGT1]

I used to have the axle puller tool for my ford. This is different. I think my best bet would be to mock something up like Ricky did. I sure as shit can't find one to order for my puller. It is what it is. Hopefully my parts will show up tomorrow and I can get this done, or I will be stuck driving the 4runner all weekend too. I have a feeling there is something in my plumbing arsenal that might work, we will see.

[Ricky Bobby]

That tool idea came from Cam (cn90) from BF E39 forums who also has a 6-speed E53, so I take no credit for it, but it works like a charm. Just need an impact socket, grinder, and welder and you have your homemade tool.

Thread for the axle stub SHOULD BE M27 x 1.5 but don't quote me.


The BMW special tool is expensive as shit, and no regular rental tool sets will work (autozone, pep boys etc)

[SlickGT1]

So what a nightmare of a day. I got this done fairly easy, but read the story.

I lift up the car, take of wheel, bang out the lock nut dents. Go for my 36mm 12 point, and WTF, not there. I must have lent it to someone. Scratching my head, I called most people in my phone book, and no one has it. Ok I think I am fookin about done lending out my tools. Just to be safe, I go through all my toobox, spare tools, and random shelves. Gone. Ok screw it, I will use a non impact. WTF also not there. At this point I am pissed off, but screw it, I am in the city, and there are like 10 auto supply stores around me. Easy right.

2 god damn hours driving around. Supply shops, nope we just sold the last one, come by next week. Autozone, we don't has shit. Advance, we have 10 in stock, we just can't find them. Harbor Freight, nope. I decide to go to Lowes, because it was on my way and I didn't have much hope. I go to the tool Island or what ever the hell they call it, and some know it all shit tries to help me. I tell him where are your sockets. He tells me that would be in plumbing. I tell him, no, it would be tools, and show him the lock nut. He tells me that is in plumbing. At this point, I nearly snap and choke his ass, but I only snap a little bit, and tell him to shut the fuck up, and point me to where the sockets would be. Holy shit, I found a 36mm 12 point non impact. I said screw it, my impact will mollest this socket, but it is better than nothing. As I go back to that guys register at the "tool island" he sees the socket, and says, oh you should have said you were looking for a ratchet. At this point I snapped explained to him that he is a dumbass that is probably costing the store money by opening his mouth.

So finally, I has socket. But with my ordeal, I figured shit is not looking good for me, so I bought a pro set of axle remover at advance on the way home just in case. All I can say, is that my OTC axle remover, was a fail, and so happy I bough another set, which I plan to return and order a complete OTC set. My puller, would not fit over the hub, and the holes to bold to the spindle were not big enough. Oh well. I used the adapter from the Pro set, and that worked like a charm.

I didn't have much disassembling to do. Caliper bracket, rotor, and 2 strut bolts. Put the puller on, went nuts on it with the impact, ping the bastard was out in 2 min. Got my 6lb sledge, 5 love taps with it, and the cv joint was on my hand.

I decided to take apart the joint, degrease it and use new lube. After I took it apart, I realized the big ring, has two sides, and they are not the same. I only paid attention to the star, and the notches face the diff. Shit. Google to the rescue. After a bit of investigation the thinner lip is what seems to face the diff on the big ring. Got it together.

I was having a hell of time compressing the new circlip to fit back in the CV, well by hand. I thought I was boss, and had real man finger strength, but no. Channelock were the way to go. Few love taps with the sledge, and the sucker was in place.

Once I the axle through the hub, I went to start making the axle puller tool as per Ricky. Then I though, wait, how much effort will it take with the BFH. So, I to a 30mm socket to fit inside the hub, but not hit the axle, stood up, and bottom whacked the socket maybe 10 times. The axle was in pretty much 75%. I took the old lock nut, and ran it in there with the impact, to pull it in further. Then removed and used a new nut. Got damn, bending the new nut was not as easy as I thought. It actually took me more swings to dent it in than all of hammering for the rest of the jab. The area of work for the chisel is tight.

Other than wasting 2-4 hours looking for a 36mm 12 point that should have been in my tool box, the job is straight forward and fairly easy with an impact. Took me about 2 hours, being cautious and also cleaning and resembling the joint. Which most won't do when doing just the boot.

[TerminatorX5]

[Ricky Bobby]

Great story Slick I had a good time reading about your NYC parts store adventures lol.

FWIW, I had a hard time with the 36mm 12 pt when I first got this car, Autozone only stocks one at a time and you have to be there on the day they get their shipment or some asshat always buys it. $8.99, its always in my toolbox now.

You're right about the hub puller set, there are two flanges, the one that is really deep does not fit over the hub (not wide enough), I ended up using the shallow flange with the hollowed slots (kinda looks like a bear paw), it was in the Autozone rental slide hammer kit.

Good thing you cleaned out and regreased the joint with the fresh boot, I enjoyed that portion, and not feeling like I half assed it on the job.

[Ricky Bobby]

Lower strut bolts is all you need to disconnect, and the brake caliper/rotor as when you push the axle inward and out of the hub you need to swing it sideways to clear the spindle.

From there once its cleared to the side of the spindle you can pop the outer joint off, reboot it,clean and pack the joint with fresh grease, and reinstall joint on the axle.

Then swing the axle back into the hub and pull it through.


Complete Bentley procedure is unnecessary to say the least.


You could also disconnect the rear control arm (wishbone) at the frame end, alternatively for a similar result. The advantage to doing the strut bolts is that they don't have to be torqued with the suspension loaded, whereas proper way to torque the wishbone control arm on the frame is with the suspension at full pre-load (on the ground).

Hope that helps. I did my entire front wheel bearings and CV boots (outer) at the same time last year and all I did was disconnect lower strut bolts, caliper, brake rotor, and wheel speed sensor (for wheel bearing job).

[SlickGT1]

Yea, I ordered this now.

Amazon.com: OTC 4579 9-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set: Automotive

and this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1BB0GDPEIAGXP

and if you don't has this, you should get this.

Amazon.com: Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers: Automotive

And yes, Ricky is 100% correct on all points.