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  #41  
Old 09-24-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by four.8is View Post
Guys, just talked to a BMW master tech and got a quote of 1600$ + parts which is really cheap compared to other shops.BUT, he advised before I decide to bring it in that I should try 20W50 motor oil..I'm like what??
He said yea it would have been a problem when the engine was fairly new but now over 100k there won't be a problem.
He said he's done it on a few smoking n62's and it did the trick ...

I don't know as much as I wanna believe him I think that oil is too thick...what do you think?
$1600 is extremely cheap for this job with parts. Hell if I was closer to you I would just have him do it! Where exactly is this tech located?

Anyways as most people here will state no point on putting a band aid on a temp fix and putting in non recommended oil into the car. To me 20w50 seems pretty high. I don't see 10w40 being that much of an issue and some state that has cured the issue as its thicker oil but still doesn't cure the issue with the valve seals. Eventually you are going to have to get them done. I guess it really depends on the individual. If you want to cure the smoking but not the issue than thicker oil. If you want to cure the problem in general and have that comfort of knowing the issue is resolved than I would opt to fix it. But than again for $1600 I would just get it done! That's just me.
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  #42  
Old 09-24-2014, 12:16 PM
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Signature independent BMW.owner's name is Rick.
I asked how much he would charge and that's what I got-1600$ plus parts which still brings you well under 2000$
I'll get it done in the spring...
Thing is, he said he used the AGA tool but it's more of a pain than help and that he is still pulling the heads to change the seals.
Since he was the head of the service dept. at BMW Bellevue, he said he heard that they might be working on a recall for the N62 for the stem seals.
Don't know if it's true or not but it would be nice to know something like that is even possible..
Just throwing all this info out there..
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  #43  
Old 09-24-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by four.8is View Post
Signature independent BMW.owner's name is Rick.
I asked how much he would charge and that's what I got-1600$ plus parts which still brings you well under 2000$
I'll get it done in the spring...
Thing is, he said he used the AGA tool but it's more of a pain than help and that he is still pulling the heads to change the seals.
Since he was the head of the service dept. at BMW Bellevue, he said he heard that they might be working on a recall for the N62 for the stem seals.
Don't know if it's true or not but it would be nice to know something like that is even possible..
Just throwing all this info out there..
For people who do this for a living removing the heads and readjusting the timing its second nature to them. Also they have all the tools needed to do the job so I believe removing the heads are probably a better easier job than leaning over and using the AGA Tool but for diyers I think the AGA Tool is very good tool and meant for people like us.

For anything under 2k for that job removing the head and Im sure reconditioning is a very good price! Seriously jump on it before the pricing goes up. Just a simple calculation the AGA Tool is $750 + AGA Valve Kit $300 not including tax if applicable and shipping. That's over $1000 already. $600 - $800 more for the labor that's a no brainer. Now you can get the seal kit for less and the tool kit you can buy used for around $500 - $600 but still your saving yourself the headache, back aches, etc.....As stated if he was closer I would have just had him do mine. Hell I may even plan a road trip! I need a vacation anyways!

As for the recall people have heard that forever. Not saying it may not happen but with me being at 200k Im sure I wont qualify for it.
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  #44  
Old 09-24-2014, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny_5 View Post
Yea I wasn't planning on hitting everything out at once or even planning on rushing it. Its not like its my only car so that makes it even better!

Ive been meaning to ask you regarding the intake valves...they appear to be harder to get to so wouldn't that be an issue if theres no air in the cylinders wouldn't the valve drop down to the point where it would be hard to put it back together? How far does the valve drop in the back do you remember? How reachable was it?
Johnny, you don't have to fret about those. If you run air, and have the piston on top - you have 2 scenarios:
  1. TDC - both sets of valves are closed
  2. End of Exhaust Cycle - Intake is closed, exhaust open
So in both cases, the intakes will seal, and stay up with compressed air. Once you move to the bottom (exhaust valves), if it's not TDC, then the air is leaking. Clear as mud?
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  #45  
Old 09-24-2014, 01:55 PM
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I am stuck right now and may do the heavier oil. I have switched to slightly heavier oil but I think I may try a step up, will the 20-w50 cause any issues? I just need to move into my new house in December to get access to tools or to be able to spend 2k out of pocket.

Any issues using running 20-w50 for a few months?
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  #46  
Old 09-24-2014, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru View Post
Johnny, you don't have to fret about those. If you run air, and have the piston on top - you have 2 scenarios:
  1. TDC - both sets of valves are closed
  2. End of Exhaust Cycle - Intake is closed, exhaust open
So in both cases, the intakes will seal, and stay up with compressed air. Once you move to the bottom (exhaust valves), if it's not TDC, then the air is leaking. Clear as mud?
So when rotating the engine and once the flag is up Ill have to make sure that both the exhaust and intake valves are closed (no rocker being pressed by cam) when doing this putting air into the cylinder shouldn't be an issue. My question is that Im thinking of doing this without compressed air in the cylinder as AGA and yourself stated you really don't need to. But since the back intake valves are so far down there how do you do it without air?

So I was thinking since most people are pressurizing the cylinders to about 100psi and the risk of the air pushing the piston down is greater wouldn't it be better to put like half of that or even down to 30psi? Im just figuring all the air is doing is keeping the valve from falling so you can add the seals and push down on the keeps. That would reduce the risk of the air pressure pushing the cylinder down and dropping a valve. And if at TDC with both valves close IF the valve was to drop down as the pressure wasn't enough it would fall onto the piston where you can still grab it? Just pondering here.
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  #47  
Old 09-24-2014, 02:01 PM
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Both valves should be closed - in their most upper position
The 100 psi value works with the leak-down tester. that's when it stabilizes. you can use whatever pressure you want, just make sure the battery is not hooked up.
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  #48  
Old 09-24-2014, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru View Post
Both valves should be closed - in their most upper position
The 100 psi value works with the leak-down tester. that's when it stabilizes. you can use whatever pressure you want, just make sure the battery is not hooked up.
Did you do this with air or did you do this without? I believe you stated you did it without? With that said how was the intake valves when sitting on the piston did you have any issues putting things together?
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  #49  
Old 09-24-2014, 02:48 PM
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I did both. With air at the beginning, without after a couple pistons, once I figured out I can do without. In a weird way, the intakes didn't slide down. The exhaust were, a couple times. Then I used air, even though it was leaking. No issues.
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  #50  
Old 09-24-2014, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Doru View Post
I did both. With air at the beginning, without after a couple pistons, once I figured out I can do without. In a weird way, the intakes didn't slide down. The exhaust were, a couple times. Then I used air, even though it was leaking. No issues.
Perfect that's what I needed confirmation on. I have one on hand anyways so Ill try it both ways and figure it out from there.

I have a quick favor to ask. I just picked up a used kit and the seller didn't even send me any of the paper work to do the job so I don't know what foot pegs to use, etc.... Just my luck. Anyways is there anyway you can send me copies of what came with the kit? scanned emailed, mailed, etc.... whatever works best.
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