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  #21  
Old 09-17-2014, 07:43 PM
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I take full responsibility to this. I should have been a little bit more clear on why I was wanting to do this. Helihover specified this is a common issue on these 4.4's and its not only just X5's but 5, 6 and 7 as well. He probably assumed you knew. But as stated I take responsibility for not clarifying why I was pulling the trigger. So I think we should just shake hands or high five and squash this! Everyone has bad days.

Last edited by Johnny_5; 09-17-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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  #22  
Old 09-17-2014, 10:56 PM
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So I live in Reno Nevada and travel to the Bay Area occasionally. I am looking for a good shop within driving distance to get his done on my wives 4.8is. It is smoking at 96k and I need to get another 20k out of the car prior to trade in. Any suggestions is the shop noted above an actual shop or just a mobile mechanic?
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  #23  
Old 09-18-2014, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trader4 View Post
I don't see that you need to take responsibility. You didn't start the snide remarks and name calling. That's where the trouble started.
Im just trying to keep the peace!
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  #24  
Old 09-18-2014, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_TUNER View Post
So I live in Reno Nevada and travel to the Bay Area occasionally. I am looking for a good shop within driving distance to get his done on my wives 4.8is. It is smoking at 96k and I need to get another 20k out of the car prior to trade in. Any suggestions is the shop noted above an actual shop or just a mobile mechanic?
The posting AB posted appears to be a mobile mechanic. Im not able to find his number anywhere so Im not sure how reliable that contact is but will see if AB is able to get further info for him. I have yet to find a shop but will keep you all posted if I don't end up doing it myself. Will see!

on the side note if you are willing to drive down to LA All German Auto AGA the company that made the tool does appointments to get the seals done. They stated its 3 day job. just fyi.
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  #25  
Old 09-18-2014, 03:52 AM
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Gentlemen Gentlemen.......

This was a great thread to read. I feel you both on your viewpoints. I'm glad everyone is cool now.

I was about to buy a V8 with the N62 motor but I heard about this valve problem and decided to go with a 6 cylinder.

I would totally do the valves if I had a chance because you will get pinched for emissions in California. I love California and emissions is one way we keep it clean. :-)

I'm thinking of buying this X5 for sale

2011 BMW X5 M xDrive35i in La Porte TX from Benchmark

any thoughts?
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  #26  
Old 09-22-2014, 06:37 PM
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So I talked with AGA today regarding the process and to confirm how things are done, any tips and hints they can provide and so forth and one of the ones that really stuck out to me is that some of the guys there are no longer putting air pressure into the cylinders while doing this job. They stated that they are saving so much more time doing it this way than dealing with filling the cylinder with air!

The reason I got is when they are at TDC and adding pressure into the cylinders at times the air pressure would push the piston down and causing a higher chance of valve dropping into the cylinders and fighting to get it back to TDC one handed, etc. Stated that its happened to a few but they had each other to assist with getting it back to TDC. From what they are stating If at TDC when doing these the valve will drop but will rest on the piston anyways so it will never drop into the cylinder and don't have to worry about that happening.

Just thought I share what I heard it makes sense really and would shorten the process from reconnecting, disconnecting, reconnecting, etc with the air compressor!
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2014, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by trader4 View Post
3 day job? Good grief. Is that with or without using their own special tool? If you don't have to pull the heads, why should it take 3 days?
When I was looking around and seeing what my options were they were one of the first people I called since they designed the tool. They stated if I was to drop it off early Monday they would be able to have the car done late Wednesday. Talking to one of the techs today even stated its a tedious job and can take up to 12 hours to do it. And that's with using there own tool by the way. I haven't done the job yet but 12 hours seems about right for that job and being careful. Im sure it will take me a whole week I don't doubt it trying to figure out how things work, etc...Im sure they are pushing the job out farther for profit reasons not sure though.
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2014, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trader4 View Post
3 day job? Good grief. Is that with or without using their own special tool? If you don't have to pull the heads, why should it take 3 days?
Trader4, I've done this job, and while a few valve stem seals can take as little as 10-15 minutes to change, a few of them are very tedious to say the least. In some spots there is no visual, and will work by feel - Braille at it's best. Then, you have to be 100% that it's buttoned up correctly. Now you have to start squeezing a mirror and light, and you have to find a good position to be able to see. These seals can take 1 hr easy to replace. Not to mention, while disassembling stuff, you might notice stuff that needs attention, and you cannot leave it like that.

I also started off by using compressed air, then, I just started doing it without (it was when I knew I wasn't at TDC, and the exhaust were open/leaking, so the compressed air was useless - I was at the end of exhaust cycle, because I tried saving time by not going the firing order sequence - the piston is still at the top). Saved a bit of time not needing to thread in/out the compressed air hose (I also called AGA once I started doing so, and they pretty much confirmed this - didn't tell them I dropped the air step at that time).
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  #29  
Old 09-23-2014, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru View Post
Trader4, I've done this job, and while a few valve stem seals can take as little as 10-15 minutes to change, a few of them are very tedious to say the least. In some spots there is no visual, and will work by feel - Braille at it's best. Then, you have to be 100% that it's buttoned up correctly. Now you have to start squeezing a mirror and light, and you have to find a good position to be able to see. These seals can take 1 hr easy to replace. Not to mention, while disassembling stuff, you might notice stuff that needs attention, and you cannot leave it like that.

I also started off by using compressed air, then, I just started doing it without (it was when I knew I wasn't at TDC, and the exhaust were open/leaking, so the compressed air was useless - I was at the end of exhaust cycle, because I tried saving time by not going the firing order sequence - the piston is still at the top). Saved a bit of time not needing to thread in/out the compressed air hose (I also called AGA once I started doing so, and they pretty much confirmed this - didn't tell them I dropped the air step at that time).
Yea ive been reading up on your thread over and over just to make sure I got everything figured out. Im sure if and when I do have questions I will be hitting you up for sure.

Good to know that you also did it without compressed air in the cylinders. They even stated that it saved them half the times work not doing that step. Also you dont have to worry about the air pushing it out of TDC either. When you did it...how far down will the valve go down sitting on the piston?
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2014, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny_5 View Post

Stuff deleted

Good to know that you also did it without compressed air in the cylinders. They even stated that it saved them half the times work not doing that step. Also you dont have to worry about the air pushing it out of TDC either. When you did it...how far down will the valve go down sitting on the piston?
I have 2 pics that show where the valve stem sits when it slid down, and where it should stay when you place the keepers on.
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