Dynavin N6 install -Pics!

[David D]

My intention is to connect to the terminal indicated, which is the same terminal as the battery cable (before, not after any fuses) using a separate fuse dedicated to the stereo amplifiers. I need to know what size the stud is though, so I can order the correct terminal.

[David D]

Anyone?

[crystalworks]

Sorry David... I'm out of town. Though i have the x I won't pull the floor to check. From memory though it was fairly stout. Maybe 3/8... 5/16 I think would be too small. Hope that is accurate... Lol my memory isn't what it used to be.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by jopecasa

Please don't tap in there!

Used the one with 100 amp fuse and just unscrew the nut.

Out of curiosity... Why not tap in there? I believe that it's Just the battery cable positive as David said... It's fused, and of course the amp 8awg is fused as well.

[jopecasa]

No reason....but just good electrical housekeeping.

If you decided to tap in there....make sure cable and fuse is rated to handle the alternator peak current....depending on SAV model a minimum of 120 - 170 amperes.

Frying a stereo amp is not an issue.....it's when cables starts melting.

Again, if it was me....I'll tap on readily available fused connector.

[David D]

Not trying to be critical here, but the purpose of a fuse is to be the weakest link, thereby preventing damage to other components in the system. In this case, we're trying to prevent damage to the vehicle's electrical system (wiring, alternator, battery). If one were to install a fuse that is rated to handle the full peak current of the vehicle's alternator, and let's say for instance you accidentally short the battery cable to the vehicle's chassis while hooking up the amplifiers that you just installed. That 120-170 amp fuse that you installed is not necessarily the weakest link in the system and won't blow before something else burns up because it is rated to handle the full peak current of the vehicle's alternator. It is very likely that your alternator would burn up, and quite possible that you'd have damage to the vehicle's wiring and battery as well.

The idea here is to make the fuse the weakest link in the system, not as strong as the rest of the system. You want it to blow BEFORE anything else does so as to prevent your wiring, alternator, or battery from overheating and becoming damaged, or worse, causing a fire.

[David D]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Sorry David... I'm out of town. Though i have the x I won't pull the floor to check. From memory though it was fairly stout. Maybe 3/8... 5/16 I think would be too small. Hope that is accurate... Lol my memory isn't what it used to be.

That's quite alright! Thanks for the info. I'll go with 3/8".

My memory has never been great, and it's getting worse as I get older!

[thrillcat]

Originally Posted by David D

The only time (pun intended) that I use the OBC on my NAV screen is to reset the time twice a year (daylight saving time), so my intent is to route the connectors so that they're easily accessible and plug the head unit back in the two times a year that I need to reset the time. If I had a MID instead of the NAV screen, I'd find a place to tuck it away somewhere else in the vehicle.

Did you re-route the cables? I've found that the easiest thing is to simply pull out the AC unit and grab the cables from there to plug in the factory nav temporarily.

[David D]

I haven't re-routed the cables, but I like that idea! I'll definitely do that.

I pulled the battery cable off this past weekend while removing much of the interior so I could run all the cables (Fakra, radio antenna, GPS antenna, line level audio, etc.). When I tried connecting the factory NAV screen to reset the time, the screen would not come up. The light next to the volume/power knob would light, but nothing on the screen, so I've got to figure out what's going on there. Does anyone know if it's necessary to have anything else connected in order to get the NAV screen up? I've removed everything (radio module, CD changer, NAV disc drive, Bluetooth module) in the rear of the vehicle except for the DSP amplifier.

[semcoinc]

Originally Posted by David D

In case anyone's interested, I've successfully connected the factory NAV GPS antenna to the Dynavin N6 and it works beautifully. Signal level is stronger than placing the Dynavin GPS antenna behind the radio in the dash where I had it temporarily.

I used a 20' SiriusXM extension cable and a Fakra adapter to make it work. I'm sure most people wouldn't bother as it adds cost (about $31), and running yet another cable to the rear of the vehicle, but I'm particular and wanted a more OEM approach.

Hi David,

Could you elaborate on the location of the factory GPS connector (a picture would be great) and the part numbers for the Sirius extension and Fakra adapter?

Thanks,

Mike