EMERGENCY DEACTV. WON'T COUNTDOWN FIXED

[Acidphase]

Okay figure I will put this up in case someone else goes crazy with this and searches the internet looking for a straight answer especially for a E53.

This could happen for a few reasons.

1. Flat/Dead Battery after replaced
2. Changed out Cluster
3. Disconnected Positive terminal on your battery for a long period

If the countdown isn't working even after disconnecting the negative terminal for 5 minutes then reconnecting and putting the key in position one LIKE THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS.

Then Unfortunately you need to re-program the cluster (KOMBI ZKE-FT3). Now there are some other applications out there that can do it I think like BavrianTechnic or Carsoft etc.. I used SSS so either you need someone that has INPA+KCAN cable with software or one of the others I mentioned.

You need a good cable if you plan on doing it yourself a few guys here on the forum suggested some Romanian dude on Ebay that had success which included software.

I took a different route and got the best cable because of my luck lol
I got this cable:
Car Diagnostic :: By Product Type :: INPA & Ediabas :: BMW INPA / Ediabas K+DCAN USB Interface - one-stop-electronics.com

However you still need to get the software when you go this route torrents are your friend the one I used was called "BMW DIS/SSS AND MANY MORE" I would link a direct link it, but not sure what the forum rules are for that so just to be safe I wont lol

You need to follow the install directions pretty closely there are instructions for Windows 7 32/64 bit but I suggest Windows XP 32bit.

The only advice I can give as far as the install besides FOLLOW the directions lol Is if you decide to partition your HD and install XP make Sure:

A.) You have a floppy drive to feed the XP install the AHCI drivers if you have your BIOS Hard drives setup like that.

B.) You are comfortable dealing with BCD boots settings (MBR) and setting up windows.

C.) If you do install it on a second or other partition make sure you revise the installation instructions and realize changing things like environmental system PATH you put the correct drive because it's most likely not C:\ no more.
This would include changes in the EDIABAS.INI file as well, which specify working directories for certain executables or binary file paths.

Example:

;=============================================================================
;EDIABAS 6.4.7 Configuration
[Configuration]
;=============================================================================

;-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
; EcuPath
;       Description :   ECU file path
;       Default     =   .
EcuPath          =C:\EDIABAS\ECU

;-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
; SimulationPath
;       Description :   Simulation file path
;       Default     =   .
SimulationPath   =C:\EDIABAS\SIMULATION

;-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
; TracePath
;       Description :   Trace file path
;       Default     =   .
TracePath        =C:\EDIABAS\TRACE

;-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
; CodeMapping
;       Description :   Character mapping file path
;       Default     =   .
;CodeMapping      = C:\EDIABAS\BIN\ansi2oem.tab

You need to change those paths to the correct partition drive letter the installation instructions as detailed as they are will not delineate this.
(You're welcome)

Just to illustrate what I mean if you installed Windows XP on a partition other than the first then it will not be C:\ anymore it might be D: or F: etc.. depending on the amount of drives you have physically or logical drives (partitions on one drive).

Therefore things like the above need to reflect the correct drive path.

EcuPath          =C:\EDIABAS\ECU
to
EcuPath          =F:\EDIABAS\ECU

If you're not PC savvy then make an image of your current install this way you can recover OR get an old laptop and rape that instead lol

After you successfully get things all running you need to run SSS and recode the module KOMBI.

I hope this helps some people, I had to do all the figuring out on my own.. I just fixed mine a few hours ago. All is well now.

[Acidphase]

Oh hey forgot to let people know if this happens to while you're out and you need to get it started:

Key position 0
Pull Fuse #43
Then start

You can throw the fuse back in to get your instruments back if you want the alarm will sound for like a minute though.

[TASTAB]

Originally Posted by Acidphase

Oh hey forgot to let people know if this happens to while you're out and you need to get it started:

Key position 0
Pull Fuse #43
Then start

You can throw the fuse back in to get your instruments back if you want the alarm will sound for like a minute though.

Will this by pass the count down clock, and what is fuse 43 for
Thanks

[Qsilver7]

The procedure for stopping the alarm (DWA = anti-theft alarm siren system) when it has gone off under unusual circumstances is...to stick the key into the ignition and turn to at position 1 or 2 (I forget which). When EWS recognition/communication occurs (which happens when the key is inserted and turned on)...EWS sends a signal to the GM III (the control module for DWA) that the key is authentic and recognized...which should then turn off the alarm siren.

[Acidphase]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

The procedure for stopping the alarm (DWA = anti-theft alarm siren system) when it has gone off under unusual circumstances is...to stick the key into the ignition and turn to at position 1 or 2 (I forget which). When EWS recognition/communication occurs (which happens when the key is inserted and turned on)...EWS sends a signal to the GM III (the control module for DWA) that the key is authentic and recognized...which should then turn off the alarm siren.

That is an entirely separate issue. The reasons the alarm is going off in the scenario I'm listed has nothing to do with the GM III or the EWS which those two are part of the immobilizer.

The issue I'm referring too has to do with the modules relating to the Cluster (IKE / KOMBI ) which get's messed up for several issues. In which it asks for the a code when you never set it up in the first place. Then it won't countdown like it's supposed too because the module is faulting.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Acidphase

That is an entirely separate issue. The reasons the alarm is going off in the scenario I'm listed has nothing to do with the GM III or the EWS which those two are part of the immobilizer.

The issue I'm referring too has to do with the modules relating to the Cluster (IKE / KOMBI ) which get's messed up for several issues. In which it asks for the a code when you never set it up in the first place. Then it won't countdown like it's supposed too because the module is faulting.

I think you misunderstood my interjection into your thread. Yes, I understood that you were referring to a different issue (OBC "immobilizing" CODE). But yes...EWS & DWA do communicate with each other when it comes to the alarm siren which is controlled by the GM. EWS & the OBC CODE feature utilizes the DWA alarm siren...it doesn't have its own alarm.

My comment was only about how to silence the alarm when it goes off unintentionally when certain unexpected circumstances (like what you described/experienced) occur. To silence the alarm, insert the key into the ignition...that's all I was interjecting in case it happens to someone else.

For instance, if EWS has shut down the car, and it thinks that theft is occuring...it will send a signal over the BUS system to the GM to sound the alarm siren (which is operated by DWA). To send a signal to shut down the alarm you insert a working key into the ignition...if EWS recognizes the key's ISN (individual serial number)..then a signal is sent to the GM to turn off the alarm...again, that's all I was saying.

The communication bus sends signals in multiple directions depending on which BUS the component falls under and each BUS has it's own control module.

You can see the simple statement I was tossing into the discussion in the last paragraph below titled "EMERGENCY DISARMING"....in which it explains how EWS, DWA, & FZV work in conjunction & communicate with each other in shutting down fuel & ignition as well as deactivating the DWA's alarm siren & unlocking (FZV) the doors:

(high cluster communication bus topology chart



(low cluster w/graphic display communication bus topology chart)

[Acidphase]

Ahh got ya! lol You're explaining why and the interrelations to how the modules work together My bad

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Acidphase

Ahh got ya! lol You're explaining why and the interrelations to how the modules work together My bad

...that's it. When you're having EWS/immobilizing issues or central locking (FZV) issues or DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) issues...the last thing you need is that dang alarm siren blaring "unexpectantly"...the quickest way to silence it is to get the key into the ignition as fast as possible.

The only time this won't work is if the battery is completely dead and the siren is operating on its own internal battery power source. In this case (dead battery/no electrical power)...the other modules can't communicate with each other...so the alarm siren is operating under its own power.

[Acidphase]

Yea unfortunately with this issue I just had the emerge deactv. never counted down so had to pull fuses it's either fuse 1, 43,45 but 43 is the easiest to grab at that angle lol

Then once you get it started put the fuse back in the alarm sounds because of the reasons you stated.

Reason I have made this post after searching many forums no one had an adequate fix in some cases one dude sold his car LOL Others had to tow there car to the stealership and dish out 400-500 bucks just for battery swap.
So I figure a quick way to get it started and home should help people and if they want to go through the trouble and fix it themselves at least they know how to as no one had a fix anywhere out there even seen people say BMW dealers were stumped which is sad really lol

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Acidphase

... I figure a quick way to get it started and home should help people and if they want to go through the trouble and fix it themselves at least they know how to as no one had a fix anywhere out there even seen people say BMW dealers were stumped which is sad really lol

Im sure the info you posted will definitely help somebody in the future...and not just on the e53 forum since this can affect the e38/e39/e46 & e53.